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Access issues inherited from Castle Valley

FRAGILE WHEN WET - don't climb after storms, holds will rip off.

CRYPTOBIOTIC SOIL - on the approach hikes avoid the dark crusty soil - it's a living organism.

Approach

From Moab, drive 15.5 miles east along UT128 on the southern side of the Colorado river to Castle Valley Road (La Sal Mountains Loop Road).

For Ida Gulch: Continue east on UT128 for about a mile, then turn south on to a dirt road that heads into the wash of Ida Gulch. Drive about 1.5m from UT128 and look for a 20ft isolated boulder off to the right (west). Park to the side of the wash, and follow the climbers trail past the boulder up to the Mesa, and follow it north to the point.

For the southern routes: Drive along Castle Valley road and park south of the mesa.

Routes

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Grade Route

Routes at the northern end of the mesa, park in the Ida Gulch wash.

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2 5.8

At the northern end of Parriot Mesa, a slender spire that is detached but barely discernible.

Easiest to hike in from the east having parked in Ida Gulch.

P1) Start on the Eastern side, climbing chockstones in the crack. Continue up to the col between the mesa and spire.

P2) Aid up drilled pitons and bolts to the summit, take some gear too. A number of ASCA bolts replaced some fixed pins in 2010.

Descent) Make 2 raps with 2 x 60m ropes.

FA: Harvey T Carter & Ken Wyrick, 1974

FA: Jay Smith, 2008

FA: Jay Smith & Jim Donini, 2006

FA: Jay Smith & Jack Tackle, 2006

FA: Jay Smith & K Calhaun, 2008

Routes towards the southern end of the mesa. Park your car off Castle Valley road.

Drive 3.2 miles up the Castle Valley Rd from the highway 128 and turn left on to a dirt road, low clearance vehicles can park here, but high clearance can continue another 300m or so to the base of the dirt slope.

Follow a track making a rising traverse in the direction of Castleton Tower, once up on top of the low range, make a sharp left turn and head for Pariott Mesa, you should be able to follow a well cairned trail making a rising traverse up and right, aiming for the base of the far right side of the impressive cliffs.

Once at the base of the cliffs, the trail passes through a short 4th class rock band, then the trail continues around into the next bowl and the cable.

1
2 5.11-

FA: Keith Reynolds & Bob Novellino

Climbs the crack just east of Ascended Yoga Masters, and joins that route deep inside the rock at the 2nd belay.

FA: Sam Boyce & Andrew Parnas, 2016

Climbs the obvious crack at the south western edge.

P1) 120ft, off-width crack slinging chockstones for pro, turns into squeeze chimney.

P2) 100ft, Move to the back of the chimney, then climb a hand crack and belay on top of a chockstone.

P3) 100ft, up a 5.10 hand crack, protecting with BD #1 cams. Chimney narrows to a stem, leading up to drilled warthogs at an arch.

P4) 50 ft, up a slab for 20 ft, go right, then another 20 ft to large ledge and detached block/flake.

P5) 50 ft, up the detached block and aid through 3 bolts.

Descent: It is possible to rappel the route. Or, traverse the mesa and descend the "Mountaineers Route", although the top can be difficult to find first time.

FA: Earl Wiggins, Katy Cassidy & George Hurley

The large bowl/amphitheatre immediately north of Ascended Yoga Masters.

Looks like a fair bit of loose scrambling, and a final steep wall to exit the amphitheatre.

FA: Harvey T Carter

1
2 5.11-

Activity

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