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Description

This comprises the sectors on the left side of Cactus Cliff until the cliff turns slightl "right" (more East facing). This area has lots of great quality rock and routes.

Approach

When coming up on the access road (either from the day use parking or The Banks campsite) it is the first part of Cactus Wall that you will see (just up from the restroom and the info panel).

Ethic inherited from Shelf Road

There are restrooms at the camp sites and in between The Vault and Cactus Cliff, please use them! Pack in what you pack out.

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Routes

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Grade Route

The first section you see when coming up.

Starts left of the obvious crack on the pillar with a small roof to the first bolt.

Start in the corner and climb the crack.

Gear up to number 4

Goes up on the north facing face of the pillar, right of corner. Shares the first 2 bolts with Illegal Smile.

5.12b

Start on good holds up to a high first bolt, follow the flake left and then continue up to the anchor, slightly right again.

Start at the flake, then climb the face slightly right to the anchor.

Goes up on the black bulge to a slab with a nice flake that will safe you ;-). The obvious short route on this wall.

Start on good holds to distinct crux at bulge followed by easier climbing to the anchors.

Shares the first bolt with The Alignment and then trends left. The crux is before the anchor.

Right of the Alignment and climb up to a right facing flake

Start on the small right facing corner, trend right and up on the head wall.

Gear to 3 inches. .Climb the obvious corner

Formerly a trad line.

Start as a The killer Toupee.

Climb through the obvious bulge at mid height.

Climb the pillar/face just left of the red arete

The way obvious red arete on the right side of the wall.

Gear to 4.

Climb a short corner just right of Awesome offwidthin

Climb a steep slab.

Climb the ledges to a high first bolt and on to the crack above.

Classic endurance route. Up a shallow weakness / corner for a few metres to a rest, then trend right and continue through steep flake.

Right of the Muscle Beach.

Climb a flake to a short corner.

Starts with the steep red wall until the cliff turns "right" at an obvious corner.

Climb up the red slab left of the corner crack. Thin climbing to chains.

Start on Dereliction Affliction, then follow left. Gear: up to 4

Easier start up the big crack, then step out right on the face and fight to the anchor.

Starts on Lats Don't Have Feelings, the go left.

The chalked highway up the red face, one of the earlier routes at Shelf Road.

FA: bob d'antonio

Bouldery start to thin face climbing, easier to the anchor.

Sustained, high quality route that's fairly steep by Shelf standards. Slightly spaced bolts that can be supplemented with gear, though the falls seems safe.

As the name says, climb the dihedral with a nice crack.

4 bolts to the ledge and 5 more to the anchor.

Climb the face to a big ledge, then trend slightly left passed a small tree and a roof to the anchor.

Start up New Ethics, but then veer right.

FA: Vaino Kodas & Bob D'Antonio, 2001

Start with the crack up to a ledge, then follow the corner

Climb to the dihedral right of the pillar.

Climb a left-facing flake to a shelf, then work along a crack right of the bolts to the anchors. 5 bolts to 2-bolt anchor.

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