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Grade Route

This is actually 2 routes linked as one. Each 3 pitches long.

Approach: follow sign for red garden wall but stay close to the wall on your right and follow it until you see a ramp going up about 10ft off the ground. A bouldery move gets you on top of the ramp where some class 4 (and maybe some 5.0) brings you to the top of the ridge. On the other side of that ridge with a huge tree is the lower ramp, which is an alternate way of getting here, albeit way more committing. Don’t be afraid to rope up in this section, I hear there’s been lots of accidents here.

P1: Start right in front of the huge tree on a thin hand crack. Delicate moves. Then up the crack and face to easier terrain. Traverse righ to a ledge under a huge roof.

P2: The Ruper crack. Go right around the corner, do a little traverse and gain the start of the ruper crack in the dihedral, A #4 camalot will protect the first few moves. Some laybacking, some offwidth moves and some decent holds along the way get you up to a small roof with a pin where the crack ends. Go over the roof and left to a bolted anchor on a small ledge,

P3: Move right and up a small corner, then traverse right on delicate moves. Stay low and make sure you look down and enjoy the exposure. You’ll get to a small crack, follow it up and into a juggy wall to the top. But tree with slings. This is the end of Lower Ruper. If you want to end your day here, head up the upper ramp on the left to a huge tree. Then up 30ft on a small ridge to a little tree and down 15ft to rap rings. 2 sigle 60m rope rappels get you down.

P4: Go across the upper ramp and down to the wall on the back, The start is right after the big roof. It’s hard to find so look carefully for a crack and chalk marks that go all the way up to a small orange roof. Climb straigh up and belay at a tiny ledge.

P5: Continue up and belay just under the orange roof with a bunch of pins and broken rock. I found better anchor placements about 10ft bellow the roof. P4 and P5 could be combined into one if you’re mindful of rope drag and have enough gear (or big balls).

P6: Traverse under the roof clipping some pins that wobble. For me the psychological crux at about 5.8+. Then up easy run out slab to the top.

Descent: From the top look for a V notch to the left and up, go thru it and then down a gully with big boulders. Follow the gully down to the end and look for rap on the left. A single 60m rope rap gets you (barely) to the top of the upper ramp. Climb the small slab in front, over the ridge with a small tree and down and right to rings, 2 single 60m rope rappels get you down from here.


Check out what is happening in Ruper Area.