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Description

This is by far the most popular sector in Glen Canyon, and with good reason. It has a reasonably large number of independent lines and two panels that offer a very high concentration of variations and eliminates, making it an excellent training venue. Not all of the lines are listed here, nor are any of the variants or eliminates - a great opportunity to be imaginative and make something up!

Many of the problems are fairly highball (up to about 5m high), though you're never far from a jug, so escape is usually feasible. Landings however are not the best, with lots of rocky points poking up out of the ground, and a steep hillside dropping away not far from many landings. A mat and spotter are highly recommended, though insufficient for some of the highest / hardest highballs - a toprope is worth bringing if you want to get on those.

Access issues inherited from Glen Canyon

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Ethic inherited from Glen Canyon

There are no bolts of any kind, anywhere, nor do there need to be any. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).

Stick to made tracks as much as possible.

Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.

Routes

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Grade Route

The steep prow on the right side of the chimney, using holds inside the chimney where needed. Note that some of the holds up high are loose, and there's a dangerous rock right in the landing zone.

The proud squeeze chimney, with two exits - behind the chockstone (tight), or in front of it.

Would recommend not being in here when an earthquake hits...

 

The classic introductory Glen Park problem.

Please be gentle with the lower right-hand starting crimp - it has started getting slightly wobbly in recent years. In particular don't try to wobble it, and don't use it as a foothold!

X rated without a rope, as the tenuous crux is right at the top.

There are numerous traverses, variants and eliminates all over the steep prow between 'The Chimney' and 'The Slab' - many of the holds here have been named by locals.

The smaller boulder in front of The Slab.

Up the slab without using your hands. There are at least 3 independent variants - left, centre and right (slightly harder).

Circumnavigate the isolated boulder. Crux is getting around the low bulge that's the start of 'Undercling Problem'.

Excellent - takes in the best climbing of the Traverse. Harder variant stays low when traversing right.

Sit start and stay true to the arete, avoiding the temptation to move left (or right).

The large boulder downhill from The Prow, with a large poison oak bush on top. Please be especially careful descending the hill to get here - SF Rec & Park are concerned about erosion on this hillside.

As of late 2017 there's a last wasp's nest in the hillside just above this boulder. Best to avoid the area.

 

Back to the main cliff band.

Direct into the finish of The Rail. Watch for loose rock in the initial section - there has been at least one serious accident here when a hold ripped off.

Hand traverse the obvious rail slot diagonally up and right.

Take care not to damage the ferns.

Exposed left hand finish to 'The Corner'. Think light thoughts as you pass the "surfboard".

At the painted arrow. Hard, highball and with a bad landing - toprope recommended.

Up the slippery slickenside on small sharp crimps, or awkward, but easier climbing up the crack on the right (V1). Either downclimb the corner to the left, or follow the crack right around the bulge to a highball mantle. Bad landing.

Good descent for this part of the cliff.

Best done in 2 "pitches" by starting down underneath the overhang to the left (as for 'Wasp Overhang'). Top rope using slung boulder anchor.

1 5.10d
2 V2

Through the high overhang left of 'Lulu', via the well-chalked shallow undercling. Sustained, highball and with a bad landing - toprope strongly recommended. Also watch the rock at the bottom - some large holds ripped off in the late 2000s and some of what's left is loose.

Traverses the high rail slot left of 'Wasp Overhang' (passing a snapped off piton). Highball.

 

This is the usual finish for the Glen Park Traverse, but is a good problem in its own right. Watch out for the headcracker slab of rock in the landing zone.

There are numerous variants and eliminates all over the nice, steep wall extending away to the left of 'Roof Arete'.

A good introductory problem. Walk off right on the ledge and down 'Descent', or continue up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Start at the far left hand end of the lower wall and traverse right to finish up Roof Arete. Can be continued all the way along the Main Cliff Band at an easier grade.

Not clear exactly where this is located, or even if it's on the main cliff band. GPS coords of 37.740548,-122.442921 were provided, but that's further down the canyon in a non-rocky area.

FA: Ryan Haeseley

Activity

Check out what is happening in Main Cliff Band.