Main Cliff Band Mostly Bouldering25 routes in sector
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This is by far the most popular sector in Glen Canyon, and with good reason. It has a reasonably large number of independent lines and two panels that offer a very high concentration of variations and eliminates, making it an excellent training venue. Not all of the lines are listed here, nor are any of the variants or eliminates - a great opportunity to be imaginative and make something up!
Many of the problems are fairly highball (up to about 5m high), though you're never far from a jug, so escape is usually feasible. Landings however are not the best, with lots of rocky points poking up out of the ground, and a steep hillside dropping away not far from many landings. A mat and spotter are highly recommended, though insufficient for some of the highest / hardest highballs - a toprope is worth bringing if you want to get on those.
Access issues inherited from Glen Canyon
For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.
Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.
Ethic inherited from Glen Canyon
There are no bolts of any kind, anywhere, nor do there need to be any. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).
Stick to made tracks as much as possible.
Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.
Check out what is happening in Main Cliff Band.