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Routes in Main Cliff Band

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Showing all 25 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
V1 Chimney Prow

The steep prow on the right side of the chimney, using holds inside the chimney where needed. Note that some of the holds up high are loose, and there's a dangerous rock right in the landing zone.

Boulder 6m
V1 The Chimney

The proud squeeze chimney, with two exits - behind the chockstone (tight), or in front of it.

Would recommend not being in here when an earthquake hits...

Boulder 6m
V1 Jugs

 

Boulder 6m
V2 The Prow

The classic introductory Glen Park problem.

Please be gentle with the lower right-hand starting crimp - it has started getting slightly wobbly in recent years. In particular don't try to wobble it, and don't use it as a foothold!

Boulder 6m
5.8 V0 X The Slab

X rated without a rope, as the tenuous crux is right at the top.

Top rope 9m
VB- Hands Free Slab

Up the slab without using your hands. There are at least 3 independent variants - left, centre and right (slightly harder).

Boulder 2m
V5 Traverse

Circumnavigate the isolated boulder. Crux is getting around the low bulge that's the start of 'Undercling Problem'.

Boulder 14m
V3 Undercling Problem

Excellent - takes in the best climbing of the Traverse. Harder variant stays low when traversing right.

Boulder 5m
V3 Thistle Arête

Sit start and stay true to the arete, avoiding the temptation to move left (or right).

Boulder 3m
V0 Poison Oak Slab

 

Boulder 4m
V0 The Rail Direct

Direct into the finish of The Rail. Watch for loose rock in the initial section - there has been at least one serious accident here when a hold ripped off.

Boulder 6m
V0 The Rail

Hand traverse the obvious rail slot diagonally up and right.

Boulder 9m
VB The Corner

Take care not to damage the ferns.

Boulder 8m
V1 The Corner Left Hand Variant

Exposed left hand finish to 'The Corner'. Think light thoughts as you pass the "surfboard".

Boulder 6m
V3 The Arrow Route

At the painted arrow. Hard, highball and with a bad landing - toprope recommended.

Top rope 6m
V2 Slickenside Slab

Up the slippery slickenside on small sharp crimps, or awkward, but easier climbing up the crack on the right (V1). Either downclimb the corner to the left, or follow the crack right around the bulge to a highball mantle. Bad landing.

Boulder 8m
VB Lulu Corner

Good descent for this part of the cliff.

Boulder 6m
5.8 V1 R Lulu

Although the crack start is ok (albeit very easy), this problem is best done in 2 "pitches" by starting down underneath the overhang to the left (as for 'Wasp Overhang'). Gets highball quick, due to the slope of the hill underneath. Top rope using slung boulder anchor.

Boulder 8m
5.10d V2 R Wasp Overhang

Through the high double overhang left of 'Lulu', via the well-chalked shallow undercling. Sustained, highball and with a bad landing - toprope strongly recommended. Also watch the rock at the bottom - some large holds ripped off in the late 2000s and some of what's left is loose.

Boulder 8m
V1 R Wasp Bypass

Traverses the high rail slot left of 'Wasp Overhang' (passing a snapped off piton). Highball.

Boulder 6m
VB- Descent

 

Boulder 2m
V1 Roof Arete

This is the usual finish for the Glen Park Traverse, but is a good problem in its own right. Watch out for the headcracker slab of rock in the landing zone.

Boulder 3m
V0 Jugs Too

A good introductory problem. Walk off right on the ledge and down 'Descent', or continue up the easy but pleasant wall above.

Boulder 4m
V3 Glen Park Traverse

Start at the far left hand end of the lower wall and traverse right to finish up Roof Arete. Can be continued all the way along the Main Cliff Band at an easier grade.

Boulder 15m
V7 Gutterpunk shoe shine

Not clear exactly where this is located, or even if it's on the main cliff band. GPS coords of 37.740548,-122.442921 were provided, but that's further down the canyon in a non-rocky area.

FA: Ryan Haeseley

Boulder 2m

Showing all 25 routes.

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