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Access: COVID-19 Restrictions

For up to date COVID-19 restrictions in the Bay Area, please refer to the Bay Area Climber's Coalition.

See warning details and discuss

Created about a year ago

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Description

The prominent cave ('The Unnatural Act') in the middle of the long, broken upper cliffline. Watch out for poison oak.

Most of the problems are best top-roped - bring gear (particularly small wires) for a natural anchor, and extend your anchor or protect your rope to minimise the impact of the sharp rock.

Access issues inherited from Glen Canyon

For all access issues, please contact the Bay Area Climbers Coalition.

Glen Canyon is SF Rec & Park land, and climbing is discussed in section 6.3 of the Natural Resources Management Plan - specifically, climbing is banned on the outcrop known as 'Dead Cat Rocks', is designated at the 'Main Cliff Band' and 'The Unnatural Act Cave', but is ambiguous at other outcrops in the park.

Ethic inherited from Glen Canyon

There are no bolts of any kind, anywhere, nor do there need to be any. If you need a top rope, bring a rack and slings (there's great gear for most of the problems).

Stick to made tracks as much as possible.

Bring a plastic bag and spend 15 mins at the end of your session picking up the trash that non-climbers throw off the top - that helps keep the place open to climbing.

Routes

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Grade Route

The blunt prow left of the V Chimney.

Up the slippery inverted V chimney, then up the crack above. Top rope recommended.

Avoids the hard part of The Unnatural Act by traversing above the roof, rather than underneath it.

The route Glen Park is famous for. A great roof problem that's best top-roped as it gets highball right at the crux.

Deceptively tricky and very slippery. Top rope recommended.

The best splitter at Glen Canyon, though it can be face climbed. Crux is down low. Watch for poison oak as you top-out.

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Activity

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