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Hungarian Falls All Ice climbing 3 routes in crag

Grade context: US
Photos: 1
Ascents: 23

YDS

5.6 5.7 5.8 5.9 5.10a 5.10c

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Summary

Easy to moderate waterfall ice in the Keweenaw.

Description

Hungarian Falls Nature Area is a series of falls located in 10 acres of northern hardwood forest.

There are a series of three falls that form off of Dover Creek, as well as another set of falls that forms to the south from a smaller creek that feeds Dover Creek.

Ice also forms under the bridge spanning the gorge.

Access issues

The land has recently (2013) changed ownership and is now under the direction of the Keweenaw Land Trust (http://www.keweenawlandtrust.org/project-hungarian-falls.php).

Approach

10-20 min

Park at the end of sixth street in Hubbell.

To access the bridge ice, follow Golf Course Road up the hill until it intersects a snow mobile path. Head to the left (south), along the trail until you come to a bridge. The ice forms on the southern side of the bridge, but access to the base is best achieved by heading into the gorge on the northern side.

To access the main and up falls, follow Golf Course Road past the snowmobile trail , taking a left (south) on the next north south trail.

Alternatively, hiking west from the bridge along the northern crest of the gorge is the most scenic route.

Where to stay

Evidence of camping can be seen at the top of the main and middle falls. Officially there is no policy condoning or forbidding camping at Hungarian Falls Nature Area. With this in mind, it is probably best that one practices strict leave no trace ethics or does not camp at Hungarian Falls.

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Routes

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This hidden climb is located 270 feet south by south west of the main falls. It is best approached by taking the trail up to the main falls and following the rim of the gorge until you reach the stream the feeds into Dover Creek.

There are trees that can be slung for an anchor.

The climb is set in the middle of a stone bowl. The ice forms a series of tall steep steps that lead up to a large curtain of ice. Water from the creek still flows in the winter which leads to a pool at the bottom. Take care in rappelling in, as not to freeze the rope.

Topping out from the climbs can be a bit dicey; there is a lot of snow and slush to swing through before reaching to solid ice.

The main falls at Hungarian freeze over into set of steps. The ice is not very steep which leads to very easy climbing. The ice on the left side of the falls is very thin and running water can be seen and heard. There's a good chance of getting wet.

Follow the main trail in and anchor of the trees or use ice screws to set up.

Underneath the bridge over Hungarian Gorge. Anchor to the bridge or with ice screws.

The base of the ice is best approached by descending into the northern side of gorge near the bridge.

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