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North Side

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 14

Seasonality

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Description

Features the majority of the sport routes at Lake Lincoln. Faces South-east.

Approach

Walk due north from the parking lot. First route is pretty much right there.

Routes

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Grade Route

First route on the left side of the North Wall.

FA: Howard Doss

Just right of the '13' graffiti. Standard rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

Starts same as 13 Crack, but bears right a third of the way up. Route has lost holds, bolts, and anchors. Check this one before attempting.

Check bolts as the crux bolt was removed in the past and may not have been replaced yet (making it very dangerous).

Set: Rich McDade

FA: Howard Doss & David Thoma

FFA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2008

Start as 'Hung in the Fence' and then bear left after the first bolt. End's on the same anchors as 'Howard's Route.'

Thin crack to the right of 'Hung in the Fence.' Goes over the roof. No anchors - belay from a tree.

FA: Todd Scarlett & David Thoma

FA: Dan Gabour

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2008

Has a tree growing out of it halfway up. No anchors.

Standard Rack with optional big cams.

Crack system left of the ledge of 'Oversized Output.'

FA: Shelby Johnson

Goes up the face to a ledge just left of the Wasp. Finishes at the top of 'The Wasp.' Rack to #1 Camalot.

FA: Todd Scarlett

FA: Dan Gabour

No anchor. You can traverse to the top of "The Wasp" and lower down via it's anchor. Standard Rack with an optional #4 Camalot.

Face just right of Triple Technique. No anchors. Rack to #2 Camalot.

FA: Rob Leinau, 2007

Bolted face to the right of Triple Technique and Castles Made of Sand.

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2006

FA: Sunner Donis, 2012

Arete climb. Beware of potentially loose blocks above the 3rd bolt.

FA: John Ryan, 2012

FA: Shelby Johnson

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2004

Dihedral located behind the tree to the right of 'Smeaglin' It Up.' No anchors.

Wide crack. No anchors. Standard Rack with optional big cams.

Face climb. No anchors.

Belay tree on top.

Thin crack with a single bolt below the roof. Standard rack. Belay off the 'Tafoni' tree.

Standard Rack. No anchors. Can belay from a tree.

FA: Hans Burger, 1997

Crack to the right of Ironman. Rack to #4 Camalot. No anchors.

FA: Shelby Johnson

Check anchors as they may be rusted out.

FA: Scott Fitzgerald, 2006

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Tue 25 Apr
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