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Village Wall

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 2
  • Ascents: 4
5
YDS

Seasonality

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Description

With a large, flat, shady staging area and easy, feature-rich climbing, this is an excellent area for beginners and kids.

The routes are still pretty new and the rock can be loose however, so everyone (climbers, belayers, spectators, pets) should wear helmets at all times.

Access issues inherited from Castle Rock

Located within the Toiyabe National Forest.

Approach

From the "Castle Gates", go straight ahead and take either the first left (East Gully) or second left (Central Gully) down to the bottom of the cliff. Turn right, and continue along the bottom until you reach this large, low angled slab of rock with a prominent "beak" way up high.

Descent notes

All routes end at lower offs well below the top of the cliff.

Routes

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Grade Route

8 bolts to lower offs. It's just possible to lower off this route with a full 60m rope, but TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!

FA: Stephanie Losee & Rick Hamilton, 14 Oct 2018

10 bolts to lower offs. It's just possible to lower off this route with a full 60m rope, but TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!

FA: Todd Offenbacher & Zach Fletcher, 2015

Starts just right of the large boulder pile at the base of the middle of the wall. 9 bolts to lower offs. It's just possible to lower off this route with a full 60m rope, but TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!

FA: Todd Offenbacher & Zach Fletcher, 2015

Starts on top of the large boulder pile at the base of the middle of the wall, at a rightward diagonal seam feature (which is not the way the route goes).

  1. 30m (5.6) Straight up passing 9 bolts to double bolt rappel station on ledge.

  2. 30m (5.5) Straight up thin, low angled slab, passing 9 bolts to double bolt rappel station at stance below overhang.

  3. ?? This route is just begging for a 3rd pitch that blasts out the overhang...

Be especially careful descending from this route with a single 60m rope - it is possible, but both pitches are very close to 30m long. YOU MUST TIE KNOTS IN THE ENDS OF YOUR ROPE!

FA: Todd Offenbacher & Zach Fletcher, 2015

On the blocks at the far left hand end of the wall, below a blunt arete.

FA: Todd Offenbacher & Mike Schwartz, 2015

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