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Civilization Crag

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The route climbs the left hand line on the tallest part of the main wall. Work the arete and the face barely right on small crimps up the vertical wall for three bolts, and then enjoy the near vertical 5.8 face to anchors.

Climbs the center line on the tallest part of the main wall. Step across to two good crimps, then work straight up the vertical varnish face along a series of breaks. Work through the break and onto the high angle slab above, and work this to the anchor.

The right route on the tall part of the main wall. Step across into the chimney and work it for a bolt, then pull left onto the face and up past a small bulge and four more bolts to anchors.

The most center route on the main wall. Pull up onto the face to the right of the chimney, and work up past bolts to a big break with a massive horn of rock. Step above this and head to the anchors.

Splitter at a sport crag. Reminiscent of Yin+Yang but thinner, more smearing, and much smaller pro. A good excuse to visit Civilization Crags and the best rock on the cliff. Not much real crack climbing on this one, more of a V3/4 boulder problem with good gear, but it's an exciting line that will reward those that are adept at placing pro quickly from smears. Worthwhile.

Climbs the blank looking far right face of the main wall. Pull up through underclings and sparse feet to the first bolt, then crimp up to another undercling. Work the crimps to the right of the prominant flake to the last bolt, then traverse left into the flake. A few moves and the chains are yours.

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The first of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom.

The second of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom.

The second of three routes (from the left) on the east face around the corner from Super Tsardom. Goes through an overhang.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

Date: 2017

This digital guidebook presents a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

Red Rocks: 19 routes Thanks to the very sculpted sandstone of Red rocks, it is possible to climb routes on very steep cliffs at quite moderate grade. The protections are good and quite easy to place.
Trad 6a grade is required

Zion: 8 routes In Zion, the routes are often more demanding both in terms of difficulty and climbing style. 
Trad 6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Mon 24 Apr
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