Start on a boulder. P1) 140ft, 5.8, climb a flake to the left facing corner and bolt. Horizontal traverse left, climb right facing corner to a second bolt, the horizontal traverse back right. Climb the shallow corner/crack up to a single bolt anchor with a thread below, you can also supplement with cams above.
P2) 150ft, 5.6, basically climb straight up the face, the challenge is finding gear placements, maybe wander slightly left and return right to a double bolt belay in white rock.
P3) 100ft, 5.8, it looks intimidating, almost overhanging. Move right to a crack and climb to a roof, place a cam with extended sling then step out right and traverse to a bolt, then up a short steep wall to a very laid-back slab. Wander up and set a trad belay in the crack. Expect a bit of rope drag.
P4) 100ft, low 5th class, straight up the crack to the top.
Descent: Walk left to a saddle between Lotta Balls Wall and the main cliff. Continue down the gully on the other side down to a large tree with rappel slings. Three abseils lead down, something like 40m from tree, 20m from tree, 27m from bolts. Follow cairns and a vague track down to your packs.
Apr 1978 | First ascent: Jorge Urioste & Joanne Urioste |
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5.8 PG | Assigned grade |
★private | |
★★Richard Pattison | |
5.8 PG | Rock Climbing Red Rocks |
Overall quality 63 from 8 ratings.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
ISBN: 9782952638876
A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.
Author(s): Thierry Souchard
Date: 2017
This digital guidebook presents a selection of 27 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.
Red Rocks: 19 routes Thanks to the very sculpted sandstone of Red rocks, it is possible to climb routes on very steep cliffs at quite moderate grade. The protections are good and quite easy to place. Trad 6a grade is required
Zion: 8 routes In Zion, the routes are often more demanding both in terms of difficulty and climbing style. Trad 6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience
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