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Cereal Buttress

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Description

This is a great - however small - single pitch area with classics such as 'Shreaded Wheat' and 'Frosted Flake'.

Approach

From the car park, follow the main trail up switchbacks until you come to the boulder field. From the boulder field, look at the far right of the cliffline, this is approximately Cereal Buttress. Take aim, then walk through the boulder field, generally following the cliffline right. The area is marked by a cave that has a warning sign on it, to the right of this crevice / cave is fruit loops and the distinctive 'Frosted Flake'. 'Shreaded Wheat' is to the left of the cave system and is a bit more difficult to spot, look up!.

Ethic inherited from Rumbling Bald

Everything goes here, there are bolted routes, traditional routes, mixed routes and bouldering.

Routes

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Grade Route

An easy start up a flake, easy slab traversing left under the roof. Use some runners and get ready for it - fire up the long, left arching hand crack. Layback or Jam - its up to you, either way its great!. A 4 inch piece is handy at the top.

FA: Brad Shaver & Grover Cable

Good beginner granite crack. Don't take it for granted, requires solid jamming skills to tame the grade down to 5.7 and has some thin feet. If you know what your doing though this is an excellent warmup with a nice chimney as second pitch option which is only done by every second party or so. Chimney protects with midrange cams in a series of horizontal cracks to emerge onto a short face climb to reach the anchors. The crack pitch is ice but this gets stars only if you also do the Chimney pitch.

An incredibly aesthetic line as the finger crack cuts across the striped granite. But to get there... thin face climbing on the slab leads up to an undercling with good gear, however the fall would be a nasty ankle breaking ride down in front of the bottom flake. Best to be solid at 5.8 before jumping on this one.

FA: Brad Shaver

Absolutely stellar line of pure finger crack brilliance. Starts easy and the crack slowly becomes narrower and more... perfect... and hard... little fingers help, but the finish is easy. The climb is kind of hidden, look up, you need to boulder up to a ledge to begin. 20 yards left of Granola.

FA: Sean Cobourn, Shane Cobourn & Wes Love

At right side of Cereal Buttress, 30 right and uphill of Frankenberry. Climb the obvious, newly excavated dihedral to a roof. Follow the crack around the right side of roof and then up to a tree. Rap from tree OR, climb up and slightly left to the Frankenberry anchors, OR, climb up to the right until under the large roof above. Climb up a short but fun crack then traverse left under the roof. This variation, "Obamanation Continuation" was put up by Shannon Millsaps and Sean Cobourn on December 6, 2009. Lots of trundling of loose blocks involved. Downclimb to Frankenberry anchors which are at the pine below you.

FA: Sean Cobourn, Allen Irwin, Eddie Medina & Tim Snyder

Interesting face climb on crimps.. Shares anchors with Frosted Flake and can be top roped after climbing FF or raping down from the second pitch of Fruit loops.

Climb awkward off width, pull past a chocksto day to acquire a hand/toe crack to the top.

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