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Comotose Area

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Description

Probably not the most popular area at Rumbling Bald, but the Comatose area offers a good selection of all types of climbing. From the classic arching crack of Comatose, to the thin edged face climbing of Rusty Redneck, with a few hard bolted routes and some longer gear routes all mixed in together. Although the number of climbs in this area isn't large, there is enough action to keep one busy for a day.

Approach

From the parking lot, follow the main approach trail (old jeep road) to where it meets and turns into a smaller trail. Follow the trail up past a boulder field near the base of the cliff. Continue up the trail then contour left along the cliff.

Ethic inherited from Rumbling Bald

Everything goes here, there are bolted routes, traditional routes, mixed routes and bouldering.

Routes

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Grade Route

Climb horizontal cracks and flakes to a single bolt and on up to the Rusty Redneck anchor bolts.

Bolted line on the face left of Comatose. Follow four bolts then long slab runout to Comatose anchors.

Lie back the crack with feet on the face until the crack widens protect wide part with a #4 or 5 and then a green c3 in the seam between the roof and the crack. Find jug on top of the crack and step up over the roof to exit the crack. Follow the another 30ft of runout easy climbing. Protection is in a horizontal eyebrow probably with a tricam or a small cam.

Starts on the face to the right of the Comatose crack system. Midway up at the obvious narrowing of the crack, step over and surmount the roof above and to the left of the crack. Follow the face keeping the crack just to your right. Continue to the Comatose anchors.

Follow bolt line to the right of Comatose. Pull the roof at the apex of the Comatose crack, then finish on runout slab to the Comatose anchors.

Starts in thin finger crack, to a bolt. Move right on krimps and slap to second bolt under a small bulge. Can move to anchors by going either right or left around mossy patch, but left is more fun. 90ft. Second pitch follows well protected crack to flake with up jugs to anchors, 120ft.

Start on slab after gully to the right of conception. Clip te first bolt. Climb to an arete leading to a runout face with a single bolt. Ends on bolted anchors for Ressurection ramp.

Climb easy ramp to roof with two parallel horizontal cracks resembling elongated eyebrows. Clip the bolt above the roof then use the cracks to pull the roof. Slide into an off width ramp and follow a flake system higher on the ramp. Exit to the right onto a face and climb up to two bolts. Rap from here or do the second pitch of Ressurection Ramp.

Start on highest ramp above Ressurection, drop down into a flacke system and protect in a crack. Emerge onto a runout but easy face leading to a bolt, then to bolted anchors, same as for Arete Ride. Second pitch is Egg Hunt.

Nice hand size splitter jam crack, starts with off width feet. Slings at the top. Crack is 5.8+ or 5.9 due to off width moves. would give it three stars if it was longer.

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