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Description

A fairly high cliff, above Waimea, with good sun exposure, and some hope of a breeze on warmer days. Due to the longer approach, it can be a good choice to find some easy-to-moderate climbs without the crowds at the lower walls (such as Main Cliff, or "Meadows"/"The Parking Lot Wall").

Approach

Approach as for Waimea, from the right side of Waimea continue upwards.

From parking hike along the trail beside the road until a stairway heads directly upwards "shortcut trail". Climb the stairs, and at the first branch keep left, mostly traversing across the slope. Take the next trail on the right that heads uphill, then turn left at the end of this. Pass Darth Vader junction, pass under Darth Vader and up the left side of it, passing Waimea on your left, until you get to a final Y junction -- splitting for Left and Right sides of Jimmy Cliff.

Descent notes

Rappel or lower from anchors.

(Walk off for the 2-pitch climbs on the far left side.)

Routes

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Grade Route

These multi-pitch routes start around the corner from the alcove where the trail arrives.

For all of them, the recommended descent is to walk off to the left at the top (easy descent trail).

Start on a bit of a dirt ledge up and left of the main base at "Clippity Do Dah". A bit run-out on the (short) first pitch. Better climbing and gear for the 2nd pitch.

Both pitches one and three are short -- either could be combined with pitch 2.

P1. climb up and over an overlap to a belay. P2. climb the obvious crack to a prominent pine tree for the belay. P3. finish up the easy slab above to a tree belay at the top.

Two pitches that can be done in one pitch of some of the easiest climbing you'll do all day. The view from the top can't be beat, though, and is worth the little jaunt. Two lowers are needed, however, or walk off to the left down a forested trail.

Go to Jimmy left, and then keep going left. You'll reach some big, clean slabs that seem to go on for days. The line of bolts starts from the lowest point on the wall and travels basically straight up from there. Bolts are spaced far apart, as the easy slab climbing could be done in running shoes. Stone is grippy and the path goes over some bulgy bits to the top. Fantastic views!!

FA: Chris Smith, 2000

This easy slab climb is squeezed between 'Clippity Do Dah' and 'Lady and the Tramp'.

  1. Start up the clean slab just right of 'Clippity Do Dah', as it is too dirty straight up the middle. A trad anchor can be made in the gully between the two bolted anchors.

  2. Continue up the Gully to the plateau at the top. You can borrow the anchor of 'Lady and the Tramp' or build an anchor with one of the large trees at the top.

Walk off to the left, or rap down but be aware a single 60 m rope may not get you all the way to the bottom from the mid station anchors.

Look for the thin clean gap in the moss/dirt/trees right of "Clippity Do Dah", and follow the bolts upwards. Shares final anchors with "Clippity Do Dah", too.

Climb the slabs to the right, passing a bunch of trees. As of spring 2012, at least the lower slabs are a dirty and moss- and pine-needle- covered mess.

The rest of these routes start along the sides of the alcove where the approach trail first drops you.

Climb the right-leaning arete to the anchors for "Things as They Are" anchors (the 2nd anchors you reach).

FA: Chris Smith

Climb the steep left-facing corner.

FA: Chris Smith

Climb the right leaning hand crack in a series of corners. Often dirty.

First bolt line right of the corners at the back of the alcove.

A hard start to easier climbing above.

Starts below a large chunk of white quartz visible near the top of the cliff, and climbs over this quartz.

Take the left line of bolts at the start shared with "Piece of Cake".

Shares the start with "Things You Should Have Learned in Kindergarten", then goes right.

Climb thin edges in a groove at the start (crux), then up a left-leaning edge, pull over onto the slab, and scamper easily to the anchors.

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