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Center Left (Armend and Dangerous)

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 193
  • Aka: Armed and Dangerous

Seasonality

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Description

The shorted, less-intimidating section left of the main (central) wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

The following three routes start off a ledge a couple meters above the base of the cliff.

Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock.

Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in.

FA: Tom Bowker, 1986

Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end.

Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge.

New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge.

2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson".

Bouldery start to easier finish.

FA: Lee Hansche & Lily Hallett, 2010

Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner.

The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges.

The following two routes start above Anchovie Caper.

Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay.

Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top.

On the right of Anchovy Caper, climb in the dihedral now protected by a lower bolt. Start on a crimp with good footholds and toss to a jug on the right to get up the dihedral. Then easier climbing up to the anchor.

Climb the smooth (and, for Rumney, very low friction) slab with a thin crack in it.

Corner

Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime"

Starts over a low overhang.

  1. 5.7, 10 bolts.Low overhang, slab, then a bit steeper.

  2. 5.4, 5 bolts. Continue up easy slab.

Many people just climb the better first pitch.

Climb the over-hanging corner up and right, then up good climbing above.

Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof.

Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof.

Slab at the right end of this section.

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