A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Table of contents
- 1. Armed and Dangerous / Center Left 33 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Armed and Dangerous 33 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 43.801995, -71.836837
description
The shorted, less-intimidating section left of the main (central) wall.
access issues
Rumney Climbers' Association coordinates access issues.
ethic
top roping, projecting and lowering should be done on your own gear
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
|
The following three routes start off a ledge a couple meters above the base of the cliff. | ||||||||
| 2 |
★ Rainbow
Start on the ledge, go up over steep juggy rock then angle leftwards up more slabby rock. Belayer should consider slinging the tree to anchor in. FA: Tom Bowker, 1986 | 5.6 | 7 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Men in White Suits
Right hand bolt line leading up off the ledge. First bolt is a bit high (though over easy ground), so belayer may with to anchor to the tree to the right. Technical on the early part of the face, then more powerful near the end. FA: Erik Mushial, 1991 Set: Erik Mushial, 1991 | 5.9 | 5 | |||||
| 4 |
Brendan's / Brendan's Bitches
Follow the right-angling corner/ramp from the right end of the ledge. | 5.6 | ||||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 5 |
Half Nelson
New (since 2009) short route that starts down and right of the ledge. | 5.7 | ||||||
| 6 |
Full Nelson
2nd pitch, goes up the steep headwall above "Half Nelson". | 5.11- | ||||||
| 7 |
Bonnie and Clyde
Bouldery start to easier finish. FA: Lee Hansche & Lily Hallett, 2010 | 5.9 | 50ft, 4 | |||||
| 8 |
Anchovie Caper
Start between some trees growing close to the wall, just before the base turns a corner. The start is bouldery, leading into easier climbing up the arete. Rock is much smoother without the usual sharp Rumney edges. | 5.8 | 6 | |||||
|
The following two routes start above Anchovie Caper. | ||||||||
| 10 |
★ Panama Hat / Mister Meaner
Starts from the end of "Anchovie Caper", going up and right from the belay. FA: Mark Sprague | 5.9 | 7 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Flying Squirrel
Also starts above the end of "Anchovie Caper", go right from the belay, the up onto a ledge, then up an arete. Joins "Mister Meaner" at the top. FA: Chris Smith | 5.11a | 50ft, 8 | |||||
| 12 |
★ Fish Corner
On the right of Anchovy Caper, climb in the dihedral now protected by a lower bolt. Start on a crimp with good footholds and toss to a jug on the right to get up the dihedral. Then easier climbing up to the anchor. | 5.10b | 45ft | |||||
| 13 |
★ Green Mile
Climb the smooth (and, for Rumney, very low friction) slab with a thin crack in it. | 5.9 | ||||||
| 14 |
★ Mentally Disturbed
Corner | 5.8 | 5 | |||||
| 15 |
Juicy Fingers
Left up a crack, then right; shares anchor with "Scene of the Crime" | 5.10a | ||||||
| 16 | ★ Scene of the Crime | 5.10a | 49ft, 5 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Cereal Killer
FA: Tim Kemple Sr., 1999 | 5.11c | 79ft, 8 | |||||
| 18 |
★★ Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication / Armed, Dangerous & Off My Medication
FFA: Tom Bowker, 1990 FFA: Glen Cilley, 1994 | 5.10b | 82ft, 10 | |||||
| 19 |
★★ Clusterphobia
FA: Mark Sprague, 2005 | 5.10d | ||||||
| 20 | ★★ Metamorphosis | 5.8 | ||||||
| 21 |
Slack
FA: Chris Hassig & Mark Iber, 1979 | 5.7 PG | 2 | |||||
| 22 |
Barbershop Duet
FA: Ryan Barber & Bradley White, 2010 | 5.6 PG13 | 60ft | |||||
| 23 |
Mitosis
FA: Chris Smith | 5.11d | 40ft | |||||
| 24 |
Mesresha
Set: Mike Robinson & Bradley White, 2012 FFA: James Otey, 2012 | 5.13b | ||||||
| 25 | ★★ Seasame Street | 5.10c | ||||||
| 26 |
★★ The Big Easy
Starts over a low overhang.
Many people just climb the better first pitch. | 5.7 | 2, 10 | |||||
| 27 |
The White Buttress
Extension of The Big Easy or Bourbon Street FA: Chris Hassig & Mark Iber, 1979 | 5.9 | ||||||
| 28 |
Greener Pastures
Extension of The Big Easy FA: Eli Buzzell & Justin Hardesty, 12 Aug 2021 | 5.9 | ||||||
| 29 |
Bourbon Street
Extension of The Big Easy FA: Mark Sprague, 2006 | 5.10c | ||||||
| 30 |
Cloud Atlas
Alternate second pitch of The Big Easy FA: Chris Smith, Mar 2016 | 5.11c | ||||||
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||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 31 |
★★ Toxic Gumbo
Climb the over-hanging corner up and right, then up good climbing above. | 5.8 | 10 | |||||
| 32 |
Boats from Cuba
Alternate second pitch to The Big Easy FA: Chris Hassig, 1980 | 5.9 | ||||||
| 33 |
★ Arugula, Arugula
Climb straight up through the left side of the large roof. FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011 | 5.10a | ||||||
| 34 |
★ Far From Feral
Climb straight up through the right side of the large roof. FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011 | 5.10a | ||||||
| 35 |
★★ The Maltese Falcon
Slab at the right end of this section. FA: Keith Becconsall, 2011 | 5.8 | 9 | |||||
2. Index by grade
| Grade | 
|
Stars | Name | Style | Pop |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 5.6 | Brendan's | ||||
| ★ | Rainbow | 7 | |||
| 5.6 PG13 | Barbershop Duet | 60ft | |||
| 5.7 | Half Nelson | ||||
| ★★ | The Big Easy | 2, 10 | |||
| 5.7 PG | Slack | 2 | |||
| 5.8 | Anchovie Caper | 6 | |||
| ★ | Mentally Disturbed | 5 | |||
| ★★ | Metamorphosis | ||||
| ★★ | The Maltese Falcon | 9 | |||
| ★★ | Toxic Gumbo | 10 | |||
| 5.9 | Boats from Cuba | ||||
| Bonnie and Clyde | 50ft, 4 | ||||
| ★ | Green Mile | ||||
| Greener Pastures | |||||
| ★ | Men in White Suits | 5 | |||
| ★ | Panama Hat | 7 | |||
| The White Buttress | |||||
| 5.10a | ★ | Arugula, Arugula | |||
| ★ | Far From Feral | ||||
| Juicy Fingers | |||||
| ★ | Scene of the Crime | 49ft, 5 | |||
| 5.10b | ★★ | Armed, Dangerous and Off My Medication | 82ft, 10 | ||
| ★ | Fish Corner | 45ft | |||
| 5.10c | Bourbon Street | ||||
| ★★ | Seasame Street | ||||
| 5.10d | ★★ | Clusterphobia | |||
| 5.11- | Full Nelson | ||||
| 5.11a | ★ | Flying Squirrel | 50ft, 8 | ||
| 5.11c | ★★ | Cereal Killer | 79ft, 8 | ||
| Cloud Atlas | |||||
| 5.11d | Mitosis | 40ft | |||
| 5.13b | Mesresha |