See the hilarious account of the development of this route here: http://www.famousinternetskiers.com/steep-jugs/
An excellent, interesting climb with two, truly fantastic anchor points with phenomenal views of Smuggler's Notch.
Pitch 1: 5.7+ 90' Belayer should wear a helmet due to loose rock on the route. Climb up the easy slab past 3 bolts. The next bolt, use a long draw to reduce rope drag later. Climb up the steep jugs on the face for 4 more bolts, trending left. Pull up and over the final, left-facing bulge to gain the bat cave ledge. The anchors are on the roof of the bat cave to the right - a bit run out from the last bolt. A bit chossy, so be careful not to pull loose rock off the wall.
Pitch 2: 5.9 60' On the right-facing side, make bouldery moves to get off the ground. Then, move up the face above the anchors. Swing onto an exposed arete and straddle it to the anchors.
Anchors: fully bolted with rap rings.
During the first ascent, the second climbed the route with a beer in one hand. More beers were enjoyed from the top to celebrate not having to drill any more bolts.
Sep 2013 | First ascent: Greg Petrics & Christian Theberge |
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5.9 | Assigned grade |
Author(s): Tim Kemple
Date: 2018
ISBN: 9781938393303
From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.
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