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Access: Climbing access denied

A house was built, the crag is now located in a court yard. The owner is not climber-friendly.

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Created 9 months ago

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Summary

Located in the sleepy harbor town of Ben Beo overlooking the harbor.

Description

A beautiful limestone face with a burly overhang near the top.

Access issues inherited from Cat Ba Island

Rock Climbing in this area is more tolerated than actually allowed, for this reason we ask everyone to treat the situation with a large amount of respect.

Climbing on the Island: Apart from needing passes from the local climbing companies, or paying a small fee to the local land owners apon arrival to climb, there is no other large access issues on land.

Climbing or DWS within Ha Long / Lan Ha Bay: This brings many more difficulties. climbing within Ha Long Bay remains illegal, and the harbour police do enforce often, this means climbing at 'The Face' or DWS at 'Le MeKong' is a challenge, and although someclimbers have managed to get there with no issues, others have been swiftly moved on by the harbour police in the bay. Boat drivers leaving Cat Ba island to go to Ha Long Bay (The Face etc.) also risk loosing their boats.

Please respect that this is a situation that local people are working on changing, and also please DO NOT BRIBE officials, some have tried this in the past, and it sets a bad president that will lead to more complications as time goes on.

Approach

A 20 minute walk or 3 minute (10,000 VND) xe om (motorcycle taxi) ride from Cat Ba Town takes you to Ben Beo Harbor. Look left from the harbor gates towards a tan hotel and a cliff next to it. Each climber is required to pay a small access fee to the local owners

Where to stay

Cat Ba Town.

History

History timeline chart

Bolted by Asia Outdoors (formerly SloPony) team between 2008 and 2015.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Diverse climbing with multiple cruxes.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Tough start (consider stick-clipping). Then comes the hard stuff.

FA: Vu Nguyen, 2015

Small holds lead to a great rest in a cave. Then the tough stuff begins.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

A paucity of small holds leads to a nice rest, though well before the cruxy dynamic roof!

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

Crux passing the third bolt, as well as through the roof. Climbing to the lower anchors goes at 6b+.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2008

6a+ climbing to the lower anchors before a powerful roof.

FA: Erik Ferjentsik, 2009

Furthest right route. Begin on a sharp slab and work towards a rest before a powerful roof.

FA: Ross Lesslie, 2015

FA: Antoine Fauchner, 2017

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Ben Beo Harbour.

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