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Ascents climbed between 2022-07-01 and 2022-07-31 in World as trad or sport by Konrad having cleanbst

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Showing all 34 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Difficulty Score
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Rupertuswand
8- Perle der Natur

Bottom section in structured rock with mostly weird but good pinches, top technical with interesting moves on flakes and pockets.

OS with draws in.

- with Dani, flo
Sport 21m, 10 Very Good 1
Sun 31st Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Mader Gedenkwand
9- Stalingrad

Yeah! Cool and aesthetic tour.

Start boulder with a sweet knee bar, followed by a no-hand rest. Top section is mostly steep juggy goodness, with a pronounced crux on pockets for which I needed to work out a sequence, followed by a long move to the right-hand edge.

2nd day, 4th go overall, bam😊

- with Nobbi Fahr
Sport 20m Classic 1
Sat 30th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Mader Gedenkwand
8 Tempo 60

Rough start (my beta was reach really high, do a pull-up and place feet). Afterwards, arete and wall climbing that's hard to read but decent once I figured out the beta.

3rd go, initially pretty tilted (need to get back into the sport climbing mindset)

- with flo, Markus Hohmann, Katta
Sport 15m Good 1
7 Metas Welt

Start on round features, then small but good pockets and a fun pinch crux at the very top.

#warmup

- with flo, Markus Hohmann, Katta
Sport 14m Good 1
Fri 29th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Stripsenjoch Gamswandl
5 Edelmischung

Beautiful dance up slab and water channels. Would easily get a 6 in Franken 😅

Climbed as one long pitch. OS except for the first two draws (flash), which I'm choosing to ignore.

- with Katta
Sport 60m, 15 Very Good 1
Fri 29th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Fleischbank Nordwand
6+ Stoamandl

Good sport alpine route with sometimes sparse bolting. On the other hand, the (cool + slabby) crux sequence has bolts every meter, which seems excessive. In retrospect, I should have taken nuts and another sling. Fortunately, I found a well-placed if rusty perma-nut to clip 😅.

First two pitches are layback and dihedral climbing along the large flakes, with a layback crux to the end of the second pitch.

The third pitch is a slabby diagonal traverse with a hard couple of meters towards the end. I misread a section and had to power through, but was far enough above the grade that it worked out.

Fourth pitch is short (3 bolts) and contains the imo second hardest crux of the route, so 5+ feels sandbagged in context.

Rap to the stance of the neighboring route rather than reverse the traverse;)

- with Katta
1 5+ 30m lead by Konrad
2 6- 40m lead by Konrad
3 6+ 35m lead by Konrad
4 5+ 15m lead by Konrad
Sport 120m Very Good 4
Thu 28th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Stripsenjoch Wildangerwandl
6 Ruas Connection

The route is cursed 😅 had to bail again, this time one pitch higher. Great climbing though 😊

Dunno what to log this as... So far everything first go, so flash?

- with Katta
1 5 40m lead by Katta
2 6 40m lead by Konrad
Sport 80m Very Good 2
Wed 27th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Stripsenjoch Wildangerwandl
5+ Gargamel

First pitch fun slab and hand/fist crack climbing, the second crux-y right at the first two bolts and easy going up structured rock afterwards.

- with Katta
1 5+ 35m lead by Konrad
2 5 30m lead by Katta
Sport 65m Good 2
5 Ruas Connection

Climbed in the rain to retrieve draws, sweet first pitch and the rest looks fun

1 5 35m lead by Konrad
Sport 35m 1
Wed 27th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Stripsenjoch Gamswandl
5 Via Claudia

Cute and fluffy

- with Konrad, Katta
1 5 30m lead by Konrad
2 5 25m lead by Katta
Sport 55m Good 2
7- Angelina

Onsighted 1st pitch. Nice enough slab, the top section pulled me to the left. Better routes all around imo. Fairly #soft.

- with Katta
1 7- 30m lead by Konrad
Sport 30m Average 1
Mon 25th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Totenkirchl Nordwand Erste Terrasse
6+ Sakko und Bügelfalte

Cool Sport alpine tour with some incredible climbing in the middle.

  1. Some easy scramble followed by a fun steeper section up the large water channel.

  2. Classic crux pitch with incredible rock quality. The overhanging dihedral section is both technical and pumpy, I had an absolute blast.

  3. Nice climbing up crack/dihedral (keep left, not up the chimney). Sparser bolting, good placements available. A tricky(er) section close to the anchor.

  4. Easy going up more and more slabby terrain, less and less protection. Stance under the Latsche (mountain pine).

  5. Climbed in one pitch with 4. Finicky traverse around the block with the Latsche, then Scramble with no bolts but decent sling placements. Big loose features, beware! Built a natural anchor at the last outcropping, rather than use the stance far back in the meadow (not intentional, I didn't find it😅. Even so, not a bad idea)

- with Katta
1 5 50m lead by Katta
2 6+ 35m lead by Konrad
3 5 45m lead by Konrad
4 4+ 25m lead by Konrad
5 2 30m lead by Konrad
Trad 190m Very Good 5
Sun 24th Jul 2022 - Wilder Kaiser
Stripsenjoch Wildangerwandl
6- Plaisir

Starts with good techy slab balance, 2nd pitch follows a jagged crack with good holds, 3rd pitch is absolute classic sustained climbing with a lot of laybacking on good jugs. ♥️

- with Katta
1 6- 30m lead by Konrad
2 5+ 30m lead by Katta
3 6- 45m lead by Konrad
Sport 110m Very Good 3
4+ Goinger Wandl

Nice little plaisir route.

Looked for the 6 direct variation of the second pitch, but while some sections seemed tough for 4+, a 6 it was not.

- with Katta
1 4+ 25m lead by Katta
2 4+ 20m lead by Konrad
Sport 45m Good 2
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Wettersteingebirge
Bernadeinkopf Bernadeinsockel
3+ Felicitas

As logical start to "Direkte Nordwand"

- with Katta
1 3+ 55m lead by Konrad
2 3 lead by Katta
Trad 55m Average 2
Fri 22nd Jul 2022 - Wettersteingebirge
Bernadeinkopf Bernadeinwand
5 Direkte Nordwand

Spectacular line through the steep north wall. Hard to believe it's possible for 5, but it is. The line manages to swerve around the overhangs via dihedrals, so the actual climbing difficulty remains moderate.

But don't be fooled by the grade - the difficulty is the alpine flair, with sparse protection, challenging route finding and sometimes poor rock quality.

Gear:

  • 8 alpine draws, 2 sport. (A bit optimistic 😅)
  • 1 set of nuts, 1 set of offsets (rarely used, a small set of medium stoppers would have been fine)
  • Cams .5, 1, 2 (Not essential, but we got good use out of all of them)
  • Slings (MVP! Lots of good placements)

Pitches (with some beta):

0.1 & 0.2 "Felicitas" on the base. Easy climbing, first pitch equipped with several fixed slings, second an easy scramble with loose rock, stance at the first anchor of the actual route.

  1. Cool chimney (sling, bolt) followed by a run-out, hard to protect dihedral/chute to the right ( bolt near end). Old piton stance at the end of the chute, modern ring bolt stance 3m up and to the right.

  2. Continuing up and right, up the slab (bolt). Exit right (not into the dihedral) (piton) and continue in the same diagonal direction, going back into dihedral (bolt). Follow the base of the wall until you have easy terrain above you, scramble up to the stance in a small niche under a dihedral (hard to find 😬)

  3. Up the dihedral to the left (bolt). The bolts above are part of the 5+ variant. Instead, head left for a fun and challenging traverse over and around small outcroppings. Most moves can be protected with slings, but being out of sight of your belayer keeps things exciting. Stance at ring and bolt.

  4. First crux pitch, lead by Katta, props! Right off the bat, a daunting stepover (old piton) and the up a tricky dihedral (2 bolts). Rope management is a bit of a pain until the first bolt is clipped, prob best to remove/unclip any pro you placed before it. Continue along the diagonal crack to the left (bolt), the climbing is more challenging than it appears at first glance. Stance at the end of the diagonal crack.

  5. Up 2 small overhangs to the right (piton+bolt), then work your way up the large dihedral (I mostly kept left). Continue upwards (bolt near end) until the stance in a small hollow on the right hand side. I found this the most mentally challenging pitch, as I rarely had a clear idea of where to go, the good holds where often hard to find and I found few placements for pro. 4+ feels a bit sandbagged in context.

  6. Straight up the fairly chossy rock, past a fixed sling and bolt, to the foot of a yellow overhang. Keep right and upwards along the bottom edge to the next stance.

  7. The 'grim' crux pitch. Up the dihedral (bolt), with powerful moves in good rock right off the bat. The second bolt heralds the crux of the route, (piton) swing out left on good holds to hold the slick slopers further up. Cool! Afterwards, easy climbing following the crack/dihedral up and left. A small overhang with loose rock in the dihedral a couple of meters before the stance is the final challenge, as I found no obvious way to protect it. However, there are excellent jugs hidden to the left. All in all, I found this pitch much more chill than some of the 'easier' ones.

  8. Traverse left to the corner (bolt) for some beautiful exposed climbing further up, head up into the (moist) chimney/dihedral for some excellent 3d climbing. Once you reach the slab, look slightly left at the entrance of the final crevasse for the stance. (I initialy didn't find it until I almost stepped on the ring 🙈)

  9. I went up the choss for a surprisingly stressful last pitch, apparently there was better climbing and a bolt to the left 😅. So much for concentration, but done is done, Bam!

- with Katta
1 4 45m lead by Konrad
2 3 40m lead by Katta
3 4 35m lead by Konrad
4 5 30m lead by Katta
5 4+ 30m lead by Konrad
6 4 20m lead by Katta
7 5 40m lead by Konrad
8 4 25m lead by Konrad
9 3- 25m lead by Konrad
Trad 290m Classic 9
Thu 21st Jul 2022 - Wettersteingebirge
Himmelsburg
4 Email

Sweet route, dumb name.

- with Katta
Sport 25m Very Good 1
4+ Team

Varied, with a slab crux and a vertical juggy crux. Demanding for the grade.

#barefoot

- with Katta
Sport 33m, 9 Very Good 1
6 Kooperation

Cool slab up water channels. Feels bit defined in the crux as it pulls you to the left.

- with Katta
Sport 30m, 10 Good 1
Wed 20th Jul 2022 - Wettersteingebirge
Bernadeinkopf Bernadeinsockel
4 Fidelias

1st pitch is a fun romp up water-carved, grippy limestone. The second pitch is mostly a fun way to involuntarily pelt your belayer with rocks.

#barefoot

- with Katta
Trad 50m Good 1
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Mittelbergwand
6+ Heiße Wiener

Cool route with a fun sidepull + undercling crux. A bit mental due to polished feet and tricky moves above the 3rd bolt, but totally safe.

Flash to the crux, os afterwards.

- with dani
Sport 17m Very Good 1
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Kühlochwand
6 Glöckchen

Steep and surprisingly tricky. Graded 5+ in the schwertner, this seems more realistic.

#warmup #barefoot

- with Katta
Sport 8m Average 1
6 Will o the Wisp

Steep and awkward (or mb it was just me)

#barefoot #warmup

- with Katta
Sport 8m, 1 Don't Bother 1
Sun 17th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Amberger Turm & Wand
8- Maus ohne Schwanz - with dani Sport 12m Good 1
8- 7+ Polyphoner Tinnitus - with dani Sport 12m Good 1
Sat 16th Jul 2022 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Kühlochfels Mittelbergwand
6 Betty K. Volume 2

Nice route with good holds in the bottom section. Kept left at the last bolt for a crux-y finale.

- with Katta
Sport 15m Good 1
6 Betty K.

Ok wall climbing, nothing special.

- with Katta
Sport 15m Average 1
Sun 10th Jul 2022 - Tambach-Dietharz
Felsen am Hülloch Hülloch Linker Rand
7- 7-/7 Kuhschwanz

Still crunchy and fairly dirty (I think the fa was around a week ago). Some of the larger structures also seem like they might not stick around - be sure to wear a helmet and belay the middle section from the left 😅

That tilted me the first 2 gos. Once I found the "rock solid" beta it turned into quite a nice route.

- with dani
Sport 3 Very Good 1
5- Vorstiegs Volker - with dani Sport 2 1
5- Toprope Tom - with dani Sport 3 1
4 Nachstiegs Nadine - with dani Sport 3 1
Sat 9th Jul 2022 - Tambach-Dietharz
Felsen am Hülloch Hülloch Linker Rand
6 Freitag der 13.

Fun route with good holds and some surprisingly long moves. As usual, pumpy for the grade.

#warmup

- with dani
Sport 4 Good 1
8- 8-/8 Hüllochbande

Typical Hülloch, aka juggy and steep and fun. Climbed the easy Lefthand variant at 2nd bolt (soft 8-).

Pinkpoint with extended 2nd draw and anchor - Imo a bit sketch when done redpoint, as the 2nd draw is hard to clip and messing up the top move gets you near ground level.

- with dani
Sport 3 Very Good 1
Sat 2nd Jul 2022 - Katzensteingebiet
Katzensteinnadel
5 Südweg

Weird, tricky section getting to the first plateau, fortunately well protected. After that excellent, varied wall, crack and sorta-dihedral climbing with some tricky moves before the second ring.

- with Katta
Mixed trad 30m, 2 Classic 1

Showing all 34 ascents.

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