Routes as sport in World

First 9c of the world. The climb begins with 20 meters of sustained 8b climbing to a knee-bar rest, before entering a 10-move 8C crux with some V13 and V9 cruxes towards the anchor.

video of the FA

La Dura Dura means 'The Hard Hard', named as such because it was then regarded as one of the hardest rock climb in the world by non other that Chris Sharma .

Chris tried the routes for years, describing it as "horrifyingly" difficult and perhaps "not for me", until he invited Adam to try. They figured new beta together and the route was finally freed by Adam Ondra in February 2013, the second 9b+ at the time (after Change 9b+ in Flatanger, also freed by Ondra)

Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra regard it as being slightly harder than Change. No other climber has managed to repeat it yet. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 7 Feb 2013
• Chris Sharma - 23 March 2013

The route is 45-degrees overhanging with a boulder problem to pull over into the final slab. 25 moves of 8c+ to reach a poor rest. Then 10 moves to reach the crux: a jump from a mono to a big pinch. Afterwards endurance 8b+ with few rests. Yellow rock at the bottom that goes to white and at the top it is grey.

Climbs the first few meters of "I Have a Dream" and then climbs left into "A 2 Bandas". Youtube FA

First 9b+ of the world.

Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021.

Ascents

• Adam Ondra - 20 October 2013
• Sébastien Bouin - 18 June 2019

An 8c section (the "approach walk") is followed by an almost blank 50° overhanging sequence that gave the route its name ("Adam's rage" because Adam Ondra came to try but could not decipher the beta).

The boulder problem is then followed by an easier 8b .

It took 5 years, on and off, for Seb to free the route. This first ascent comes just a few months after Seb repeated Move (Flatanger), another 9b/+. Checkout the video of his journey to climb this route.

This is Beyond with its extension

Korea's first 9b.

According to Sachi Amma, the crux part is really bouldery and reachy. It is V14/8b+ for me. But it can be V13/8b or V15/8c by physique and ability.

CANADAS FIRST 5.15! Which took Megos 7-8 visits to Ravens for. Easy to spot walking into the crag, as the streaked nature of the line, makes it look like a massive, silver lighting bolt, into the cliff. Extremely delicate moves off micro holds, that look like nothing but dimples of limestone, go up the stunning, sharp streaked prow. The extension above the Orginal Prow Project that was bolted by Peter Arbic. Sonnie Trotter added 10 bolts creating Alex Megos' insane and mega steep, test piece. Another hard Boulder problem (Vhard) consisting of bad slopping dimples and tiny beyond micro-edges and a mad dash to the anchor!

The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently

A more direct exit of Ace of Spade. Initially graded 5.15a but upgraded by Daniel Woods and confirmed by Jonathan Siegrist.

Direct finish of "Nu World".

Initially graded 5.15a, upgraded to 5.15b by Matty Hong in 2021.

Britain's first 9b!

This is a linkup of four routes. The line starts with Raindogs (5.13b), moves onto and through the crux of Rainshadow (5.14d), onto Batman (5.14d/5.15a) and then finishes up on Batroute (5.14b).

The line contains the first 8m of 'Le Roi Lézard' (8c+) until a rather bad rest (8b/8b+ up to there). Then turns right into the 8B crux of 'Des Scènes Bizarres dans la Mine d'Or' (9a+) and finally adds a “new” last 8A+ jump that results from a broken hold. To be finished into some meters of 7b+. * Source lizardclimbing.com

Variant of 'La cène du lézard'. Start by 'Focus Pocus'.

A combination of Bain de Sang and Bimbaluna. Maybe one of the hardest slabs in the world.

Described by Jonathan Siegrist as "Absolutely incredible route with no place to hide. Resistant like hell."

The route links a section of 8c into a steep and crimpy upper half to create a 45-meter endurance test-piece.

It was the first 9b to be freed by a female climber: Angy Eiter.

A 60 meters long endurance challenge that connects three routes. 'Pata Negra' at the beginning, the crux of 'No pain no gain' and ends at the lower off of 'Botanics'.

Downgrade to 9a+ proposed by Sébastien Bouin .

A combination of the boulder Picacho (8B+) with "Alí Hulk (extension)".

Same start and same end as "Mercenaris del Passat". There is also a variant with a different finish, equipped by Chris Sharma.

First repeat by Adam Ondra, Feb-2016

The route has a first part made of 25 very sustained movements graded 9a+, followed by a second 8c part with 12 movements including a dyno.

A knee bar has been found in the first crux (the sequence was downgraded from 8a to 7c+), however a hold has broken higher up on the dyno which makes it significantly harder to throw. All in all the route is still considered 9b

Ascents

• Chris Scharma - 7 May 2011
• Adam Ondra
• Jakob Schubert
• Sachi Amma
• Piotr Schab

This route connects Pachamama 9a+ and Papichulo 9a+ and was described by Adam Ondra as demanding "incredible power endurance without any rest."

Initially this connection seemed utterly extreme - perhaps even 9b+ like neighbouring Dura Dura freed by Ondra in 2013 - but was then rendered more "humane" when Ondra discovered a new sequence to get across the traverse. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc

Ascents

:

• Adam Ondra - 8 Feb 2017
• Seb Bouin - 16 April 2019

A left finish to "Café Colombia".

Repeats by Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Stefano Ghisolfi.

Repeats by Stefano Ghisolfi (13/01/2018) and Daniel Woods (25/02/2018).

Direct start of Estado Critico.

A "hard and beautiful" king line test piece put up by Chris Sharma. Originally graded 9b+, J. Schubert has suggested it could be a hard 9a+. Felipe seemed to confirm the 9b grade.

Ascents:

• Chris Sharma - 7 March 2015
• Jakob Schubert - 2 December 2018
• Felipe Camargo - 18 April 2019

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg

Extremely physical and athletic at the beginning, extremely crimpy and core oriented at the same time.

links Move into the second, 8b crux of Project Hard

Goes straight through the center of the cave that crosses a 20m horizontal roof. The line is split into two distinct sections, the first up to a rest is about 8b+ from where the hard part of the route begins.

A start variant of 'One Punch'.

Initially graded 9b/9b+, downgrade proposed by Adam Ondra to 9b in Nov-2021.

Starts with Noi and finishes some 70 moves later on Anaconda. Repeated by Adam Ondra.

An exit variation of 'Le poisson pilote'.

Rési avec une grosse section bloc au milieu. Gros dévers.

C.R.S stands for "Cowboy a Reaction Stupide" (Cowboys reacting stupidly) and is also the acronym for the anti-protest French forces, not really known for their brain power.

For such a short route, only 22m, the route must pack a punch!

Adam says “The style is definitely power resistance. There’s a very physical roof on pinches and pockets leading to a very crimpy exit on the final bulge"

It took Adam 3 days to work the route and at the time was his fastest 9b ascent.

FA: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yYV9yASRBI

A pure resistance route.

Extension of Smile of Jokonda.

Ends at the second anchor.

Shares a large part of the route with its neighbor 'Gran Guggenheim'

Las Meninas to the second anchor.

Initially graded 9b, downgraded to 9a+ by Alex Garriga in Aug-2021.

A combination of 'Seta ibérica' and 'Circo ibérico'.

An alternative start to to La Fabela but with the same first anchor (where there is also a good rest). The second part is the same as "La Fabela pa la Enmienda", linked it is called Catxasa R2.

As Iker Pou describes it: "a perfect roof, well not quite perfect, because it even descends, about 20 meters long across a series of pockets. A authentic ‘fiesta’ of monodoits and two-finger pockets across a roof that is scary just to look at." The climbing is obviously ferocious and extremely physical: "Very few footholds, and those that exist are very bad so you have to constantly dyno them from one pocket to the next."

The route is a connection of two established 8c+: Starting to the left of Za staro kolo in majhnega psa from a separate bolt, the line traverses right and leads into the upper section of Sanjski par.

To the first anchor of Change.

Début dans Sachidananda et sortie dans Bronx

https://kletterblock.de/de_DE/2020/09/alexander-megos-holt-sich-die-2-begehung-von-letrange-ivresse-des-lenteurs-9a/

Nicknamed the French Chilam Balam for its length and sustained difficulty.

The route was bolted in the late nineties and is made of two parts: The first part (added later) is the extension start. The second part is the original "Les yeux plus gros que le ventre" (which means having eyes bigger than belly).

Description

:

The first roof part is around 20-25 meters and weighs in around 8b+. After you reach a good rest and you can change your rope.

Then you have a bouldery crux featuring a one finger pocket to reach another rest. Until here it could be an 8c route.

Then there is one resistant 9a to do. This 9a part is starting with big tufas, and after this a series of bouldery sections: 7A, 7A, 7C+/8A and finally a 7B.

All these boulder problems are amazing. Especially the redpoint crux of the route in the 7C+/8A boulder. There are incredible moves to finish on a tufa dyno.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk

First 5.15 in Japan.

An easier finish to "Peruvian Necktie". Initially graded 5.14d but upgraded by Daniel Woods to 5.15a.

Originally by Jaws (5.14b) by Dave Graham. Two key holds broke off making it considerably harder, thus the II.

As Traversi dputs it: “Empath is slightly overhanging, about 65 feet tall and it’s difficult all the way from the bottom to the anchors. It’s a power endurance test piece with very few resting positions. The minimal shake spots are on bad liebacks with smears for feet. The route revolves around squeezing this refrigerator-like feature from bottom to top. There are only two down-pulling holds on the entire route. One of the uniquely difficult aspects of the climb is that your left hand is always on the ‘good’ holds and your right hand is always on bad holds. Your left arm gets completely smoked, because there are few opportunities to rest it.”

the most difficult route in China as 2019

Repeated by Adam Ondra in 2012.

Extension traverse of Pedigree Chum.

The most impressive of McClure's awesome additions to the crag and the current hardest in the Peak. Before the hard span near the top of Evolution gain a pinch after a hideous cross-over move. Continue up the wall above to the lower-off on Chimes. Finally saw its second ascent after 23 years on 31/10/2021 by Scottish wad Will Bosi who suggested it is at least 9a+ and possibly harder still.