★ East Face Route 17

Description partially taken from Rob Rankin's Secrets of the Scenic Rim, and the original guide linked below, with modern amendments. Most tree/shrub belays have disappeared from these guides. http://www.qurank.com/guides/Guide_MtBarney.pdf

This 297m route takes the obvious central chimney which splits the face, formed by two dykes.

1. 30m (12) - Starting at a small cave right of the two main dykes, climb diagonally - L to R - across and up the buttress which lies at the base of the face below the obvious central chimney and finish at a tree. One already feels the exposure.

2. 25m (13) - Continue up the buttress to a scrubby patch at its top, with a cave behind. Belay off bolt and gear in the cave.

3. 30m (13) - Move right and diagonally up into a chimney, past a bolt, and continue up this, battling past prickly scrub, to where a small tree belay used to sit. It is best to link this into p4.

4. 25m (14) - Move right onto the face and up to another small tree belay. A natural belay can be found above the tree.

5. 25m (14) - Continue up the face and to back left towards the chimney, to a small ledge with an old double bolt belay. Belaying in the cave above may be a better alternative, but gear is scarce.

6. 27m (17) - Chossy class! Traverse left into the chimney and climb this to the overhang. On the first ascent a tree was lassoed at this point but the tree has long since gone. Therefore, find your way up and out of the imposing roof chimney by any means, and ascend to a tree belay in the main chimney above.

7-10) 120m (14) - Follow a series of vegetated chimneys up to the exit gully.