Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Beliebtheit | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Stonehenge Western Cluster The Gents Boulder | |||||
V1 | C2
Has 'Gents' painted on the rock | ||||
V1 | ★ C3
Start at flanged crack and reach up to crescent direct (sans small jug on right), then move down and right finishing via C4. | 4m | |||
Stonehenge Western Cluster Central Trackside Boulder | |||||
V1/2 | ★ Central Trackside Slab & Crack LHV
Starting a couple of meters left of the original Central Trackside Slab & Crack utilising positive but awkwardly positioned holds to gain the slab (UK5b) and finish up the original route. Careful the holds here look like they will compact down with traffic also potentially dangerous landing. | 8m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Central Trackside Slab & Crack
More short route than boulder problem takes the path of least resistance to the top. UK5a via crimps to get on to the slab with good landing, low end 4c as the route crux onto the block (don't fall here), 4b move to top, looks to take bomber gear if you prefer; should translate to soft VS 4c from memory! Also the descent route, jump off the lower slab. | 8m | |||
V1/2 R | ★★ Green Arete-1
Start up CT Slab & Crack, mantle and ascend the green arete. Low-end UK4c route crux with potentially life threatening landing, do not fall, do not attempt when slab is damp. | 7m | |||
Stonehenge South-West cluster Butt Face Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Butt Crack
Sit Start. Into crack and up. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ SJW
Start at flake as for OHC but mantle onto it and up | ||||
V1 | ★★ Opera House Crack
Sit start layback off large flake. Traverse Left into base of chimney crack. Up crack to top. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge South-West cluster Moby Dick Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ MDT extension
At the end of the traverse, set yourself and grab the finger jug above the traverse line on the arete, then mantle to top! | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Whale Tale
Awkward bulge | ||||
V1/2 | ★★ SW16 Surly Steve and the finger bang
Finger bang surly Steve in his rocky eyeballs to glory. SDS with two shallow monos wide apart, up to crescent. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge South-West cluster Fascination Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ SW9
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Fascination
A Font like experience? Right of SW9, start around the "India" feature, uppity and mantle! | 3m | |||
V1/2 | ★★ SW-19-Traversee
Starting hand holds as for SW9, feet sans base-plate, traverse right via edges and crimps to finito via SW10. A soft touch? | 5m | |||
Stonehenge South-West cluster North of South West | |||||
V1 | ★ SW7
Nice holds, bad landing | ||||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Split in Half Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ Skip'!
Start on left detached block Northern aspect moving into and traversing the flared offwidth/chimney to the arete of Sheeba Inu before topping out (dabbing the top is a bail). | 8m | |||
V1 | ★★★ Split the MAQBA ?
Climb the offwidth/chimney from the ground, no dabbing! Awkward landing throughout potentially very dangerous, take care with pad placement +or- spotter preferable. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★★ Down but not out
Pull down NOT out! Trend left at topout | 3m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Salisbury Common | |||||
V1 | ★★ VBSl1-S5
Access the slab via start of VB-Slab1, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into flake system of S5 to finish up it. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ VBSl2-S5
Access the slab via VB-Slab-2, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into S5 to finish up it. | 7m | |||
V1 | ★★ VBSl3-S5
Access the slab via VB-Slab-3, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into S5 to finish up it. | 8m | |||
V1 | ★★ VBSl4-S5
Access the slab via VB-Slab-4, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into S5 to finish up it. | 10m | |||
V1 | ★★ VBSl5-S5
Access the slab via VB-Slab-5, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into S5 to finish up it. | 12m | |||
V1 | ★★ VBSl6-S5
Access the slab via VB-Slab-6, traverse left to featured arete and drop down into S4, keep moving left into S5 to finish up it. | 13m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Ampersand Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Ampersand Traverse
Start matched on horizontal edge right of starting hold for S8/S9. Traverse right through the overhang along the good edge, sloper and jug, finish up Ampersand. | 4m | |||
Stonehenge South East Cluster Mushroom Boulder | |||||
V1 | S3
Up the back left side of the mushroom | 2m | |||
V0+/1 | ★★★ Enoki
Sit start and climb as for Bu'ttons to gain the shelf then move left topping out via the small ledge of S3. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Nose rock | |||||
V1 | ★ NE2
Slightly harder face climb | 5m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Cliffhanger boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Ramp Traverse
Several mantle problems | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Bunny Arete
Arete from a stand, to a thutchy mantle | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★★ The Benevolent Biscuit!
Slab classic. Start right of NE22 on the far left of the slab, up, trend right utilizing and mantling the large thin plate. Higher, harder and scarier than Rabbit Trap, cruxes at 3/4 height, awkward landing helmet is advisable. You will want to climb it again! | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★★ The Full Green Rabbit
Start as for The Benevolent Biscuit! and traverse right across the slab into and up Rabbit Trap. | 7m | |||
V1 | ★★★ MAQBA!
The direct/rightish variant of The Benevolent Biscuit! starting from the low large smiley. | 5m | |||
V1/2 | ★★ Cliffhangers' Slab Centrale
Takes the highest point of the slab directe, a touch eliminate. Start as for MAQBA but rather than mantling the plate move further up by utilizing the smallish crimps and gaston to reach a decent hold which appears as a large shallow pocket up and right. Top out directly up from there. Technical and stretched crux with awkward landing, take care. | 5m | |||
V1 | ★★ Junior Burger Anti-Vaxxers
The sit start variant of Cliffhangers' Gate. If you found the sitter tough; you are not alone. | 3m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster The Wave Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ NE21
Thin slab | 3m | |||
Stonehenge North-East cluster Twin Boulders | |||||
V1 | NE15
V shaped match then slap to top | 3m | |||
V1 | NE4
SDS, to pinch, under cling and then smear to top right | 3m | |||
V1/2 | ★ Twin Ridge Traverse 2
Start as for Twin Ridge Traverse 1 but continue right to finish up Twin Ridge Slab 2. Easier top out but much worse landing. Really nice climbing may pick up an extra star as it cleans up more. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Twin Ridge Slab 1
Stand start just left of the detached stone at the back (Northern aspect) of the larger twin. Utilise the good horizontal edge to move up the slab then veer left to rockover and top out. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Twin Ridge Slab 2
Start as for Twin Ridge Slab 1 and move right to the diagonal rail making room to mantle the good horizontal edge and top out. V0+ climbing above an awful landing, be careful. | 4m | |||
V1 | NE16
Starts at what looks like a chipped hold | 4m | |||
Dangars Gorge Richard Cliff | |||||
19 | Eaves Dropper
Start: Half-way down the gully is a corner with two roofs. Scramble up to the large ledge at the base of the corner. Bridge the corner and move around the roofs. Up the overhanging jam crack and an easier crack to the top. Erstbegehung: A.Stephens & R.Clark (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981 Erste freie Begeh.: A.Stephens & E.Sharp, 1981 | 30m | |||
19 | Aires and Graces
Start: Approx. half-way between Eaves Dropper and Nicotinus. Scramble up to the base of the right-angled corner.
Erstbegehung: R.Clark & A.Stephens (alt. leads) (one rest), 1981 Erste freie Begeh.: M.Colyvan, G.Pritchard & A.Stephens, 1981 | 60m, 3 | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Blue hole area T-crack Boulder | |||||
V1 | Vixen
2 move wonder | 2m | |||
V1 | Grooves
Towards the river about 10m is a low rock with a couple groove moves | 1m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Below the bridge | |||||
V1 | ★ Bob
This silly one | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Turbot St Exit
Up horizontal rails and mantle. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Nepalese Peace Pagoda
Directly across the river, an easy arete, taller than it appears as the start is hidden. | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Below the stairs | |||||
V1 | ★ Toppled tombstone
Directly 4m is an easy low problem which can be under water at the 0.2 level. Start jammed low, then jug and up Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, carol lee & Ben Vincent, 25 Sep 2021 | 1m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Moonscape area | |||||
V1 | Cuttlefish beak
A cruisy little layback problem | 1m | |||
V1 | ★ Squid
In the right side of the pit facing north, sit start and up the arete, duck under the chockstone without touching it or the back wall and up to freedom. Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mär 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Sponge crab
Short crimpy problem that feels more exposed than it is over the void above 'Octopus asylum' Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 16 Dez 2022 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Evacuation station
This start further back / down / under the first 2 pits. Up jam crack and then grovel through the triangular exit. Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 3 Mär 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | Moon buggy
In a pit with a wedged tractor tire. Poor feet, good crimpers, line up the top out. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Smeagol’s Crack
Sit start the hand crack on the opposite side. | 3m | |||
V1 | Moonshadow
Sit start and climb the left side of the scalloped arête. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Moon Blade
Sit start at base of flake. Up, around & mantle before you reach the next boulder. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ A Crack In The Wash Basin/Soft Paws
A sweet, mossy & soft little finger crack line complete with chocks. | 2m | |||
V1 | Mantle Assist
Start with hands on the mantle piece and use the L lobe to help mantle the mantle piece. | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Scultpure garden | |||||
V1 | ★ Silent scream
Up the middle of the left void, weird funky moves | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Amphibious landing
Sit start semi-hovering over water, up fun rail. | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Riverside Boulder | |||||
V1 | Centre
Crimps to the top. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Broken glass
Up the slab | 1m | |||
V1 | Hardish mantle
| 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Hydrological drought area | |||||
V1 | ★ Into the challice
Swing left and side mantle into the cracked bowl | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Right traverse
Traverse right through crimp to rail | 5m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders The holy land | |||||
V1 | ★★ The western wall
Slimpers with great feet to mantle | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Drowned relic
Up the uncling feature and spine to top. Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 4 Nov 2019 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Water tunnel area | |||||
V1 | ★ French perineum
Up crimps, just of where the water comes out of the tunnel | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Tradies area | |||||
V1 | Tradies get the ladies
Thrutch up Erstbegehung: carol lee, 27 Mai 2017 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Jug of VB
SDS on jug then up Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 27 Mai 2017 | 2m | |||
V1 | Spark plug
Stand start on jug and up Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 27 Mai 2017 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Evan Stone area | |||||
V1 | Ben's crack
Erstbegehung: Ben Vincent, 28 Apr 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Harry Potter's Scar
A fun warmup slab | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Warmup traverse
As for Warmup then traverse left for 2m without any arse dabbing | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The Nose
Sit start and head up over the prow. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ One-two
Sit start on undercling, one mover to edge then top. | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Easy crimp face
| 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Bumble Jumble
Start at back and move through the roof and anything goes using both sides. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Crimp face
Delicate crimp slab and mantle Erstbegehung: Benji Dutaillis, 31 Mai 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ The Hammer
Sit start contrived mantle and then up the weakness avoiding the right arete. Or it flows nicely if linked from The Sickle Erstbegehung: Ben Vincent, Benji Dutaillis & Brendan Heywood, 13 Feb 2022 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Above the private sector | |||||
V1 R | ★★ A bridge too far
From the top of Remembrance, bridge out and up the rail. Fun and easy, but highball with a bad landing. | 6m | |||
V1 | ★★ Remembrance
A fun unique V shaped mantle problem Erstbegehung: Nathan H., 11 Nov 2018 | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Cascade boulders Yoda's cave | |||||
V1 | ★★ Yoda's mantle
Start on crimps then move to lip and mantle | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders River boulders | |||||
V1 | R2
1 move weird pinch then mantle (South rock) | ||||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Vulcanology area | |||||
V1 | ★★ Tourist traverse
Start on the very far right, along the great rail then up Erstbegehung: Benji Dutaillis, 4 Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Don't drink the creekwater
A fun Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Gargling Guardia
A variant that goes through the larger features out to the right Erstbegehung: Brendan Heywood, 4 Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Warmup boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Warmup
Start in the good pocket, one slap and then mantle | 2m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Triangle Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ The arrow
Crimps up the face. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ The opposite side
Just around the corner on the great rail, right and up Erstbegehung: Ash Powell | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ It's a knock out
Up layback / jam to jug | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Bus driver boulder | |||||
V1 | Middle
Start on slopers then top out right and mantle | 4m | |||
V1 | Back of the bus
Typical shitty bruce slab with a bum start, up the back of the bus driver boulder. | 4m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Pseudoephedrine Boulders | |||||
V1 | ★★ M6.5
Start in crimps, use pocket like feature and crimps to mantel. | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders River terrace | |||||
V1 | Arete
Slopey arete | 3m | |||
Gara Gorge Upper Gara Gorge Central Boulders Little Ayers | |||||
V1 | M9
Small friction dish and thin crimps / smearing. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ M10
Sit down start. Climb the corner. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ The Crack
Stand start layback then mantle up | 4m |