Hilfe

The Lonely Boulder

  • Bewertungskontext: AU
  • Fotos: 2
  • Begehungen: 81
13
BLDV

Saisonalität

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Beschreibung

Cast off eons ago from the mountain, hidden deep in the forest, waiting for someone like you.

Einschränk. übernommen von Wollongong

Many of the Wollongong crags are located in the Illawarra Escarpment State Conservation Area (IESCA). This region has had a chequered history in recent times, with large swathes of popular crags having to be closed after it was missed that a new NSW National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) Plan of Management (PoM - 2018) had incidentally banned climbing along most of the escarpment. After a lobbying effort and a stroke of coincidental good luck an amended plan of management has been published (2023), modifying the plan to allow rock-climbing “… on the west- and south-facing cliffs of Mount Keira and on cliffs north of Bulli Pass."

Access comes with caveats and all climbers should be aware that that “… new bolts or anchors may only be installed with NPWS consent, and park infrastructure such as safety railing may not be used as anchor points as they have not been designed for this purpose. NPWS will not install, assess or guarantee bolts or other fixed protection points. Participants in these activities are solely responsible for their own safety.”

Given the pressures many rock-climbing areas have been under around Australia and the plethora of access issues that have followed it is imperative that climbers respect and heed the access requirements. Access granted can easily be access taken, noting from the PoM: “Locations where rock climbing and abseiling are allowed may be reviewed and altered to address safety issues, risks to visitors or impacts on cultural values or environmental values. Temporary closures of rock climbing and abseiling locations may be applied to limit impacts. Permanent closure of sites may also be necessary. NPWS will consult with representatives of the local climbing community before implementing any permanent closures.”

Please refer to the ‘Ethic” section for more notes on how to be a good steward for the climbing community.

Zustieg

Park on Mount Keira Road outside of Mount Keira School. Walk 250m up the road. Just past the large tree with reflectors on it and before the fire station there is a bike track off to the left next to a 50km speed sign. Follow this for 950m (about 15 minutes walk) to find the large boulder just on your left. (Refer to OSM if lost).

Ethik übernommen von Wollongong

The modern climbing scene and all the access issues that go with it requires modern ethic and all climbers should familiarise themselves with general good crag etiquette to ensure access is maintained into the future.

The following is a short summary for the area:

  • The Wollongong area has a historical mix of sport, trad, and bouldering, with fully bolted sport routes emerging as the dominant form in the last decade
  • Do not bolt or rebolt existing trad or bouldering routes
  • No chipping of the rock to alter the difficulty of a route or create new routes. Loose or dangerous rock may be removed with careful discretion
  • Top rope and lower-off through your own gear. Fixed anchor protection to be used for final lower off only to minimise wear
  • Minimise excessive chalk usage and make brushing of holds a regular routine. Consider using alternative chalk colours to minimise visual impact
  • Do not bush-bash new access trails, stick to existing marked trails where possible
  • Do not remove vegetation, both from around cliff bases and on the cliff. Brushing down built-up lichen, dirt and chalk off existing routes is acceptable maintenance
  • Do not leave rubbish or gear at the crag. Gear left may be confiscated by NPWS
  • Respect any announced closures of tracks, cliffs and areas in the region
  • Don’t play loud music at the crag, consider the amenity of nearby climbs and non-climbers alike
  • Speak up against anti-social behaviour, unsafe behaviour, or other activities that threaten access – contact your local advocacy association - ACANSW
  • Rebolting shall only be carried out by suitably competent and trained persons. The minimum standard is 316 stainless U-bolt or ring eye-bolts with pure epoxy glue. Refer to http://www.safercliffs.org
  • Remember you are responsible for your own safety, and the safety of your friends!

Learn more at https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Pretty sketchy as you will find out from what is left on the ground. Start both hands on the broken ledge, with careful balance reach up to a small right, then big left and up to the ledge. Very sketchy top out.

Erstbegehung: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start low on the ledge, shift up the ledge. There are two ways to go from here, either straight up with your left, or sweet undercling crimp to balance then up with your right. Top out is difficult.

Erstbegehung: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start right hand on the undercrimp. Delicate moves up to the right then grab the solid ledge and go for a powerful and fun dynamic move to the top ledge.

Erstbegehung: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Start on same undercrimp as Erupt but instead of heading up traverse left to the start of I dunno man... via the start of Machinations. Then follow I dunno man... up.

Left hand at low crimpy undercling, right on higher crimpy side pull, move up crimpy line then dynamic move to lip and mantle

Start both hands on the side arete. Carefully shuffle up and along the arete. High heel hook and a scramble ensures to finish it off.

Erstbegehung: Murray, 25 Jan 2017

Needs a lot of cleaning *Updated description: since no one has described the route, I'll offer the following: start on low crimpy underclings. Move up to left hand press, then up to sloper, or skip the press and dyno to sloper. A high foot assists with a tricky mantle.

Start matched at the pocket ~1.5m from left arete, move out to good right hand then further over to mantle up the sloper from the green man

Super low loose big undercling. What could go wrong? Needs cleaning.

Gebiete

Klettergebiet(e) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung
Name
Routenstil
Routen
Begeh.
Länge
Grad

Hallo!

Das erste Mal hier?

theCrag.com ist eine Plattform für Kletterer, die gratis Kletterführer und Informationen für Gebiete auf der ganzen Welt anbietet. Diese werden von Kletterern, Boulderern und anderen netten Personen erstellt und gepflegt.

Du kannst deine Begehungen erfassen, dich mit anderen Kletterern austauschen und vieles mehr machen...

» schnuppere hinein, » erfahre mehr oder » frag uns einfach

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

Inhalt teilen

Fotos Durchsuche alle Fotos

Lade ein Foto vom Gebiet hoch

Do 20 Apr
Finde heraus, was in The Lonely Boulder passiert.

Erhalte einen detaillierten Einblick mit einer Zeitleiste, die zeigt

  • Begehungen von Kletterern
  • Diskussionen in der Community
  • Aktualisierungen des Indexes durch unsere Benutzer
  • und viele weitere Dinge.

Logge Dich ein, um die Zeitleiste zu sehen!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文