Einträge in Calabogie

Multiple cliffs and breakdown areas around Manitou Mountain near Calabogie Lake.

A great cliff with a short approach, and great views of the lake. The cliff is on private property. Use at your own risk. The boulders climbers left of the cliff area sit on Crown Land. The rock is excellent and the cliff is surprisingly tall at the centre. Almost all climbs have recently been cleaned (as of 2023). See descriptions of individual climbs. Besides a wide range of sport climbs, this cliff also has one of the best selections of Trad climbs in the area.

The cliff also hosts a peregrine falcon nesting site. Because of this, there are often seasonal closures to allow the birds to raise their young in peace. Please respect the closures when they are in place.

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

Climb the short wall between the two trees. Gain the dihedral ramp and follow it until you can work your way through the crux to reach the hand sized crack that splits the main face. Plug bomber gear until you reach the big rest ledge. Step back onto the face and clip the bolt. A few easy moves lead to the top ledge with a bolted anchor on the half wall.

About 20 m left of sport routes on big slab. Start at the lowest point on the left corner of the slab. Make a series of moves trending left requiring good balance and slab technique until you can gain a small ledge with a horizontal seam of black rock and a small roof above. Use the black rock to pull up to and go left around the roof into a dihedral. Use the lip of the sloping ledge on your right and pull over it to find the bolted anchor (or option to step left and clip lone bolt on BrOkleys and carry on to that anchor).

Leftmost climb in this grouping, about 2 m left of "Steady as she goes". Up the large slab with a weakness trending left. Climb past a ledge and through the chimney to the bolted anchor. Decent protection throughout.

Recleaned September 2022 but could use another pass.

Start on the built dirt platform and head the low angle slab on the left. No real hard moves. The crux will be finding all the gear placements to keep your head cool. The route mostly takes nuts, including offsets, and will test your IQ on using them.

There were doubts about needing to bolt this climb. However, on the FA, 9 pieces of gear went in...

Leftmost bolted line on this slab.

Second bolted line from the left on this slab, just left of YDB. Start up a steep face at the very base of this big slab. Crux is at the bottom.

Gain the right trending blocks and then up past the piton and two bolts. Continue into the distinct crack and pull onto the large ledge near the top. Finish with a couple of moves up the crack to the bolted anchor just below the trees.

[Closed Project]

Start a few meters left of the dihedral. Follow the rightward trending cracks and step into the dihedral when they run out. Once on top of the dihedral, do some nifty moves to gain the bulge above by going just a bit left (two bolts here). Then traverse back right to get to the exit crack and the bolted anchor. Guessing that most the route goes around 5.8 but the bit that is bolted is likely 10-.

[Closed project]

Start in the dihedral left of "From Kingston with Love". Up and left to the big ledge. Then move right onto the face and continue ever upward to a wide ledge and a bolted anchor. Might be around 5.9.

[Closed Project]

Potential route through face just right of the new bolted route. Depending on the exact line could be around 5.10b?

Needs to be bolted and cleaned a lot more.

Direct technical line up to anchors of From Kingston with Love. Looking for consensus on a letter grade.

Start on Brokedown Palace. At the fifth bolt, cut left across the roof then head up a technical, crimpy crux before mantling onto a large ledge. Look left and finish up the inside corner.

Hardware provided through a climbing community fundraiser.

Follow the line of bolts up to the right of a small roof, then start plugging gear as you make your way up a diagonal of right facing flakes. At the large horizontal crack, look for the weakness that’ll take you straight up the steep face above.

Originally led ground-up with a pin or two – which were then replaced by bolts (the existing second and fourth). Additional bolts were added to the start in 2022 with the FA’s permission.

Start at a tree beneath the overhanging wall about 5m left of Termagant Dihedral. Climb the dead tree until you can step across onto the slab. Climb the nice slab on good rock until it is possible to escape right before the roof. Better protection and easier climbing to the right may be possible if slab is cleaned.

Start at the tree grouping about 30 feet left of the obvious arrete. Make your way up and right to reach the crack system. From here, the climbing gets gradually harder. The original FA went through the roof, but escaping right is possible making it a number grade easier. Beautiful movement on beautiful rock!

Modern free variation of Training for the Alpine

Not a sport route! Recommend stick clipping first bolt. Start on the right side of this very distinct aréte, delicately dance to the left and up past another bolt. Step left into a small groove from which some stellar crack climbing starts. Follow the crack up and then left to finish on a pedestal, bolted anchor. Single rack.

Accessible from the top by lowering from the rap-in anchor (see decription for Termagant Dihedral) and aiming climbers left.

Just right of a very distinct arete. Start up the crack in the dihedral and eventually escape the big overhang to the left and to the bolted anchor. Historically rated 5.8, but is comparable to 5.10b climbs in the area.

As of October 2022 there is a rapel anchor to lower to the top of this climb. Follow the trail all the way past the right end of the cliff, then head up and back along the top until you find a rope leading down a drop onto a good ledge and to that anchor. Termagant Dihedral's anchor is straight down, about 15 m. You can also easily access the anchor for Open Book / Hanging Dihedral, slight climbers right, and much higher than Termagant's.

Climb Termagant Dihedral and instead of exiting left, do a tricky traverse to the right below the roof, to a stance at the base of the open book. Climb the aesthetic finger crack that eases higher up and ends at the ledges with a 2 bolt anchor shared with the Hanging Dihedral. Bring a few long slings for the traverse.

Recleaned December 2022.

This climb starts at the base of the huge boulder that divides the "Left Side" and "Right Side". The first climbs at "Right Side" are right next to this one, but start on top of the huge boulder right of this climb.

Start behind a large arrowhead shaped block that threatens to turn you into a hand puppet the higher you climb past it. Climb atop the block, then up the thin flakes to the first bolt, then pull onto the face to reach a stance. Continue past a large hollow looking flake then make delicate face moves to reach the first overlap. A few thrilling moves with bolts take you up and right to the base of the right-facing hanging dihedral. Continue up dihedral and make awkward exit to the left onto the large ledge shared with Open Book. Climb ledges to the shared 2-bolt anchor (30m rap).

Can be top-roped with some rope-drag by accessing the anchor from above using the rap-in anchor. Recleaned December 2022.

Fires are PROHIBITED. Under NO circumstances should you start a fire at Calabogie. Respect the new parking restrictions.

HEY CLIMBERS, YES THAT MEANS YOU! THE WAY YOU ACT AT THE CRAG CAN LEAD TO THE ACCESS BEING JEOPARDIZED! CLIFFS ARE BEING CLOSED AND THIS COULD HAPPEN HERE!

Don't play music, no one wants to hear it. Pick yours and others trash up and pack it out. Dig a hole to take a #2 in and burry it! Don't pee under boulders or overhangs because the rain can't wash it away. Fires are banned on Greater Madawaska Crown Land without permit or approved fire pit, of which there are none at any of these crags. Limit the size of your group. Brush your tick marks before you move on. Keep your dog on a leash and pick up after it. Don't smoke around people who don't want to be around it and pack out your butts. Park responsibly.

Here is a good article talking about access issues recently (Read it, it only takes a minute)

https://gripped.com/news/hey-climbers-your-behaviour-can-close-our-crags/

Main Cliff, Calabogie Boulders, and approach are on crown land in a "General Use Area", in particular in the " "Madawaska Highlands General Use Area".

Most of Lake Cliff is entirely on Calabogie Peeks land. They accept no liability for any use of the area, use at your own risk.

Skywalk is entirely on crown land.

The Hydro/High Falls section was closed in 2002 due to deaths from an unexpected opening of the Barrett Chute Dam overflow gates. The land is fenced off and owned by Ontario Hydro.

There are two very real threats to access at this crag that have come up in COVID times. We were a hairs breadth away from having all parking shut down in 2021. Fires and Parking are the only two things the people who have the power to shut down access have every talked about in the last 5 years.

The left-most of three climbs start on top of the huge boulder. Start by going up the boulders on the left side of this area. Then follow cracks up and left to skirt the left edge of the roof. Then finish up a nice crack to the bolted anchor. Likely harder than modern 5.8.

Recleaned (Nov 23).

Climb up the very obvious right-facing flake, toward a small roof. Step right before you get to the roof, then up toward a large roof. Escape leftwards past the roof. Continue up and left to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historical grade of 5.4.

From the anchor you can follow a rope out (can be used for top-rope access as well - access cliff top on the far right) or to a rapel anchor to lower into Termagant Dihedral, Hanging Dihedral, and the Falcon Strikes Back. Recleaned Fall 2022.

Needs to be recleaned.

Climb Marcus’ route to a ledge capped by roofs and traverse right to a short left - facing dihedral capped by another roof. Aid through the roofs to a sloping ledge at the base of a longer left - facing dihedral and continue to the top. Thin.

This route has a bit of everything, with an outstanding view!

Stick clip a high first bolt and work through a techy slab boulder before you mantle onto the ledge. Climb through another crux to progressively easier climbing until you reach the no hands rest. Find the your way through the bulges to a pumpy crux where the anchor is in your face but you can’t clip it.

The ledges around the no hands rest are used by the falcons to clean their kills before feeding them to their young. In years where falcons are using the nest don’t be surprised if you’re climbing through the remains of their kills in fall.

Long climb that leads into the big roof above. Route is closed due to Big death blocks that need to be removed, 1 bolt missing and cleaning needs to be done. Equip by Joe Skopec

Climb up a very narrow short ramp (or the thin half - moon cracks to its right), then up past the one bolt, traverse right and then up the left-facing corner crack. Climb past the anchor for "Fast Dreams" (on your right) and continue to the bolted anchor. Good protection throughout. Historically rated 5.8.

Recleaned 2023.

Start below an obvious flake at the left edge of the steep, clean wall. Climb the flake then move right to a short left - facing corner/seam. Climb through a hard and reachy boulder problem up and right before moving back left. Continue up the vertical wall to the lower off.

Start just right of Fast Dreams, just left of a ramp (often wet). Climb straight up the face, staying just left of the wet ramp. A series of underclings leads to a very hard boulder crux. Continue up and left through tricky 5.11 climbing to the lower off.

Shares the same start of Piton Route but then follows the bolt line up the centre of the wall.

Extended draws for the first three bolts recommended.

(Please note this route can't be bolted direct due to the massive detached block)

Follow a clear ramp up and right. Protection is decent, but bring small gear for the last section before the bolted anchor. Recleaned September 2022.

Starts just before the base rises up sharply. Start at the right trending crack, gain first shelf. Aim up and right to the next shelf and then up along the dihedral. Keep following bolts through the steep finish to the shared anchor with Piton Route.

Keep your eye out for some old pitons, but this is now bolted for sport. Be careful in the dihedral about 3 bolts up. There is still some loose stuff in the crack behind the block that should be removed.

These climbs are located on the higher ground right of where the approach trail meets the base of the cliff.

Shares the first 6 bolts with Illuminati. After bolt 6 follow the diagonal crack up and left. Clip the first sleeve bolt (no nut/thread) and use some citizen science creativity to get through the crux. Power through the small holds and NASA propaganda to clip the anchor. Congratulations, the earth is still not flat.

For bonus points, at bolt 5 use the undercling/side pull out left to stay on the face.

Start in the little gully under the first bolt. Work the v0 boulder problem start and gain the slab. Cruse straight up to the crystal filled crack. Crimp up the crack until it runs out then head right a bit. Head up the pink face to the chains. Stick clip recommend.

Start in the small dihedral. Head up the slab into a larger dihedral. Avoid the temptation to head left out of the dihedral or you will end up on "Illuminati" and have a harder finish. Exit the top of the dihedral heading right and up to the chains.

Start directly under the first bolt. Climb though the sweet slab and mantle you way to the headwall. Find the crystal filled diagonal crack and work your way up into the shallow, broken dihedral on the right and up to the anchors.

Start between the two trees. Go up the friendly slab, then make your way through the delicious jugs. Gain the ledge and contemplate your choices in life. Believe in yourself, find the crimps and sidepulls. You got this! Send it!

Work though low overhang bulge onto the ledge and work your way though the crimpy face and quartz filled crack.

Jam though the nice hand crack right of the overhanging bulge to gain the ledge. Work up the flake and crimps into easier ledges. Removal of a leaning flake has increased the difficulty of this route and made the moves above the ledge a bit sketchy. Another bolt may be added between 3 and 4 to make it safer.

Climb onto the ledge, then the block. From there, enjoy an easy boulder problem to the finish.

This is a km+ cliff running north-south (west-facing). It is granitic gneiss. The cliff overlooks a swamp, and there tend to be a lot of bugs in season (mid-May to early-July).

There is easy access to the top of the cliff, making it easy to set up top-ropes for most of the climbs.

It is west-facing, getting afternoon sun.

There is a fair bit of development going on -- not all newer climbs are named, or have been named. Or the names may not have been well publicised.

Also, with the new development has come inconsistency in grading of the routes. The older routes tend to have "old school" grades (look for this on trad routes), while the new development in the 2010s has tended towards softer grades. (e.g. "Cool But Concerned" (5.8) is a tougher climb than "Hakuna-Matata" (5.10a).)

Google maps of approximate location of main cliff: http://maps.google.ca/maps?q=45.267306,-76.812758&num=1&t=p&sll=45.261174,-76.772976&sspn=0.037155,0.090551&hl=en&ie=UTF8&ll=45.263953,-76.808252&spn=0.018576,0.045276&z=15

The number of potential routes on the cliff number into the hundreds, though most are not developped. Recently (2010), with the closure of much of the Gatineau park to climbing, there has been a renaissance in development at Calabogie, including some new hard sport routes (at a cliff that was mostly trad/top-rope previously).

This cliff also has some of the most reliable ice-climbs in the area.

Due to the history of this cliff, this listing includes a good number of the historical route descriptions that may refer to features (e.g. cairns) that no longer exist and routes that are now difficult to find or unfindable.

The end of the cliff closest to the road. Approach along main trail or from above using the trail climbers left of Finally or rappel in.

Watch out for poison ivy along cliff-base and approach trails to the cliff.

Start at the very beginning of the cliff, where a large boulder has fallen off. Step up onto an undercut brown slab. Climb up to the roof, then move left onto a broken slab. Climb it easily to the top.

Where the trail first meets the cliff at the north end is a large boulder which recently (geologically speaking) fell off the cliff. Start just to the right of this boulder at a right-facing dihedral, initially using an obvious jam crack. Climb to the top of the dihedral (8m) to a nice ledge and anchors to the right. Well cleaned as of June 2021. Shares anchors with Proboscis. Dihedral sounds hollow so treat placements with suspicion.

Climb straight up the face midway between "Crack and Jugs" and "Another Stroll". Thin and thoughtful climbing followed by some obvious slab to anchors. 3 bolts added to lower half of climb in place of the knife blades and pitons used by FA. A fourth bolt was added later to protect unsuspecting sport climbers. Cleaned June 2021 and anchors installed.

Back in the day, when it was a trad climb, this was graded 5.6. With the "upgrade" to a sport climb, the grade has, also, been upgraded to a more modern 5.8.

A variation to "An Easy Stroll". Climb up the dihedral on the left side of the column-like ridge. Exit as for "An Easy Stroll". Top anchor.

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.

Start on An Easy Stroll. Before the roof, traverse left and finish on Hump Day using the right facing dihedral for gear placement.

Start as "Hump Day". At the roof, head straight though on undercling and good sidepulls. Once on the slab above traverse left to anchors.

Immediately right of An Easy Stroll. Stay out of the dihedrals on both sides. Good sidepulls and good but thin crimps to the third bolt. Head right on balancy moves to easier interesting climbing. Top is a bit run out but takes cams. 5.6 if you use the dihedrals.

Start about 1m right of "Hump Day", below a jagged left-facing flake.

Climb up to the left-facing flake and to the top of it. Then angle up and slightly left to the right-facing dihedral and up to the "Hump Day" anchor, ignore "Hump Day"'s bolts in favour of the fine gear in the dihedral.

Start 2m right of "An Easy Stroll", 1m to the left of an obvious sloping roof. Move up to a V-notch, then past an overhang and up a small right-facing easy-angled dihedral to the top.

Climb through the obvious break in the overhangs 3m right of "The Go Between", then straight to the top.

The crux right-step under the roof is hard to protect, and likely to be a ground fall if you fail to make the move successfully.

Finishes nicely at "Breakfast Beer"'s anchor -- and is a fun TR from that anchor if you don't have trad gear.

An obscure line, but more interesting than it looks. To the right of "An Easy Stroll" is an obvious roof. Start at the right end of this roof, immediately right of "One Over". Step up onto a small slab just off the ground and climb it to near its right end. Pull directly up and over a small overhang. Continue up, passing over several very small overhangs, then straight up the face to the top.

Start under the first bolt. Use hidden small crimps and sidepulls to gain the second bolt though an interesting sequence then proceeded through the easier (5.6) mini-roof tiers trending left. Slabby top joins Fallus at last mini-roof. Stick clip recommended -- crux is very low and clipping hold for first bolt is bad for grade.

Be mindful of the potential swing while cleaning this route. Keep an eye on your rope above you and communicate with your belayer.

Stand up on the detached triangular block to the right of fallus. Mantle into the gully then sright onto the face and up. Protection tenuous in the middle. Maybe a star if it was clean.

FA probably not me. Its a fairly obvious line that has likely seen previous climbs.

Follow the line of bolts through the burly overhanging start on some hidden holds into a precarious mantle. Pull though the juggy roof into some thin cracks. Cruise the slab to the top. First bolt is a difficult clip, particularly if short, stick clip advised.

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

Just right of Breakfast in Vienna is a second bolted line with a faded plaque.

A good candidate for your first 5.11

Originally put up as a rarely climbed mixed route, now retrobolted as sport in hopes it will see more traffic. Two new bolts have been added to replace the need for gear on the easy upper slab. If you wish to climb it in the original style do not use bolts 3 and 5.

Fa/developer unknown.

Start 4.5m right of Cedar Hollow. Follow a small gully up and slightly right from a clearing to an overhang. Proceed up to a pine tree, then up slabs to the top.

Start 10m right of 'Cedar Hollow', where the ground starts to rise, directly underneath the extreme left end of a long roof near the top of the cliff.

Start straight up on good holds, then aim for an obvious cleft in the rock below an obvious vertical crack. Follow this to the roof and traverse to the left to avoid the roof and continue to top.

Now with bolted anchors.

Climb the short dihedral to the roof. Escape roof to the right then trend left and up though the black water stain on pocket crimps into easy rails to the anchor.

A significantly harder variation goes 11+ if you pull directly though the roof at the first bolt and stay on the black water stain.

A 10m wide slab above a high point in the lower trail, with an extensive scree field at its base, is easily climbed along its left edge.

Climbs around the "2nd Easy Way Down".

Mostly moderates, a mixture of older climbs that maintained their popularity and new climbs. Most climbs have bolted anchors.

Being close to "2nd Easy Way Down", means that there is generally easy top-of-cliff access for setting top-ropes on climbs in this sector.

Start at a point 30m right of the First Easy Way Down and 10m left of the point at which the trail climbs up around a large boulder. A solitary cedar 1/2 way up the cliff distinguishes the route. Starting above a juniper bush, pull directly over a small overhang, traverse slightly left to a large ledge, move diagonally up and right to the cedar, then finish straight to the top.

Start just left of first bolt on juggy rail. Pull though the overhang trending right though more juggy rails. Find one of the many ways from the third bolt straight up the slab. Alternate start goes straight up from the first holds into the small dihedral and then heads right over the first bolt -- goes 9+ and avoids the glorious jugs. Most of the action is before the first bolt, stick clip recommend.

Start left of "Make It So" under the bulbous small roof. Pull though decent holds onto featured slab. Joins "Make It So" at 3rd bolt. This climb is unsafe to bolt/lead as the entire bottom slab is hollow. Belay should stand as "Make It So" with a redirect though the second bolt to avoid line trap.

Climb though the broken corner then up the slab. First bolt crux, stick clip advised. Bottom and the ledge half way could use a bit more gardening but it is in climbable shape.

Start right of "Make It So" pull some interesting moves to the first bolt. Cruize upwards trending left into the mini-roof at the 3rd bolt. Pull straight up though the mini-roof and gain the slab (crux) and then enjoy the somewhat sustained slab to the anchors. Crux can be avoided by heading left into the dihedral at the 3rd bolt (5.9)

Easy slab climbing to the second bolt. Pull the crux bulge which is somewhat reachy onto easy ground to the top.

Work though some cryptic hard slab to gain the second bolt. From there put power though the sustained fingertip seam and the plethora of bad holds in the slightly overhung dihedral. Then enjoy the easy jugs though the overhung v-notch to the anchors.

Climb up the obvious line through the big overhang left of "The Next Generation" and continue up the face above. Usually wet.

Climb up the face to the left of Real Men, keeping 1 to 2 metres right of the blunt arete.

About 60 meters left of pull up at the base of the cliff where the large boulders are. Climb up some easy slab to the first bolt, bolt line then follows a black mineral stain up the wall.

"Prime Time" is a re-bolted version of "The Next Generation".

From the old guide, "Three bolts were placed before the first ascent. These were all removed by Steve Adcock in November, 1989." These old bolt-holes are clearly visible as one climbs.

Start directly beneath the left end of a large spectacular roof. This roof can be distinguished by the way it gains height in steps, from right to left. Climb straight up the steep slab to the base of the roof and traverse slightly left. Climb straight out to the outer ledge of the roof using an obvious finger crack (excellent protection if you have the strength to hang around and place it). Once past the roof, move slightly right and then up, past two pitons.

Now a bolt protecting the hard move though the roof.

"5.9 if you're a real man; 5.10 if you've got some brains."

A few meters left of "Pull Up" is a slab of rock dyed black from water running down. In the spring this is covered in ice, and there are ice climbs on this section in the winter.

Climb up, staying to the left out of the dihedral, over the bulges on thin holds, to a solid cedar at the top.

Climb the dihedral, veering left up features just below the cedar (anchor).

Start as for "Black Book", but move onto the right face of the dihedral and climb staying completely on the face, using the arrete for hands, to the top, and then traverse to finish below the cedar.

It is possible to bypass the crux of "Assimilation" by heading left early on large chalk covered holds and traversing a few meters off the bolt line before coming back to an awkward clip then heading left again and rejoining "Assimilation" above in the dihedral under the roof. The bypass is 5.8ish and has a nasty pendulum fall potential.

Small but positive crimps though the textured vertical face give way into jugs after a tricky crux sequence. Find the hidden crimps! Some fun moves into the roof lead to a strenuous traverse to the anchors.

Trade the interesting dihedral and roof traverse for a few big throws on jugs. Mind the tree. Head straight up after the 3rd bolt.

About 20m left of "Cosmic Teacup" and "Pull Up". Climbs a left-facing wall between a lower roof to the right, and higher diamond-shaped roof to the left. This is a great line not very sustained.

Retro bolted May 23, 2021 with FA permission for safety reasons after a significant rockfall event. More difficult bottom section warrants a letter grade.

Climb the bolt line up the face left of "Pull Up".

A bit run-out from the last bolt to the anchors - a small gear placement might add confidence.

From 'Flaky Flake', walk left along the cliff face, up and over a pile of scree then down again. There will be a slab with a wide zig-zagging crack going up to a ledge about 3m off the ground, with a small overhang about 1.5m above the ledge and a first bolt just above the overhang. Crux is pulling over the overhang, much harder if you are shorter than about 5'8". Then nice climbing up past 3 more bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

An obvious slab a few meter left of The Fly. Up a crack then diagonally left up the slab to the top.

So named because of the many pins (none of them good) used to protect the FA. The route has since been repeated without using any pins. It is poorly protected.

Note: it is not clear that the line indicated on the topo image is correct for this route -- the line, as indicated, is unlikely to go at anything near 5.6.

Start left of 'Flaky Flake'. Climb up onto a slab, then climb the obvious crack. (Harder than it looks.) Join Flaky Flake or finish left of that route.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

Start as "Flaky Flake" but continue straight up into the vertical finger crack. Passing to the right of the dead tree 2/3 way up. 2 bolts for anchors at top.

"Seconds Out" finishes on a rising right traverse -- if you take this line of weakness and trace it leftwards past where "Seconds Out" joins it at a pair of cedar trees all the way to flaky flake, it looks like an interesting line.

Climb the slab right of Flaky Flake until you reach the horizontal weakness, traverse right towards the pair of cedar trees, then finish as per "Seconds Out" -- a rising right traverse until there is an obvious break in the top of the cliff.

Start under the bulge right of "Nutty Nuts". Pull straight though the bulge for full value. Wind up some easy ground to the crux section at the top. 3rd set of bolted anchors at the top of wall if counting from "Flaky Flake".

Start just left of "Seconds Out" and head up angling leftwards towards a small overhang (with a bolt). Finish on a 2-bolt anchor.

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down, climb up 3m on good holds (shared with Seconds OUt) then pull straight over the small overhang and bulges above it. About 2m above the cedar tree (on the left), follow the thin crack up to the anchors at the top.

The upper face section gets quite thin, and is a committing lead for a 5.8.

Start 5m left of 2nd Easy Way Down. Climb up 3m on good holds, then traverse left to avoid a small overhang. Climb up to an obvious tree, then doing a rising rightwards traverse on various ledges, to exit through an obvious crack at the top of the cliff.

Shares the start for Seconds Out, look for a bolt on a fairly blank looking upper part of the face, right of the crack that Cool But Concerned climbs up. Climb up the initial dihedral then up and right (awkward) onto the ledge, then straight up to and past the bolt to anchors.

Starting just at the base of the ramp for 2nd Easy Way down, climb over the gentle bulges to a pair of bolted anchors.

This goes up the prominent corner just to the right of where the main lower trail comes up the talus slope to join the trail along the base of the cliff. From the top, this is just past the 2nd overlook, the 2nd place where the main trail along the top of the cliff comes out to the cliff top itself.

It is an easy slab section with a couple cedar trees on it, going to a short (about 3m) vertical section with big solid holds. At times, it is protected by a fixed rope.

Start 5m to the right of the "2nd Easy Way Down".

Really low first bolt, climb past one roof, up a slab, then pull another steep section on big holds.

Probably more like 5.8 in modern grades.

Start at a short left-facing dihedral with an obvious foot-jam crack. Climb 4m up the dihedral, traverse right along a sloping crack, then finish.