Hilfe

Mottets

  • Bewertungskontext: FR
  • Fotos: 15
  • Begehungen: 37
  • Aka: Une belle dalle

Saisonalität

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Übersicht

Small crag next to the river Arly in a shady, tree covered valley.

Beschreibung

Stone & Topo: Granite. Mostly solid, some parts really brittle, interesting shapes & structures: Sometimes grey slab with bigger gravel, sometimes colorful (best visible with sunlight) with few & little grains, sometimes tiny dark crystals, sometimes lots of friction, sometimes very smooth and appearing like sanded (by a glacier?). As the crag is located at valley's bottom, a helmet makes sense despite of the fences protecting from earth, leafs and debris falling down. Topo available on an information board at the crag and as a sheet of paper in the tourist information, but not any more accurately matching bolts + lower offs.

Security: For a sport climbing crag in France, average bolt density. Cliff is max 40m high with intermediate belay stations, so 12 quickdraws and a 50m rope are fine, no nuts, friends etc. required. Lower offs are 2 bolts connected with a chain. Toprope possible for few routes - going down the approach, on the right you'll notice some horizontal steel cable and stables like used for a via ferrata. Some holds have been cut into the rock.

Comfort: Standing area of comfortable size, on left wall ~1 m and right wall ~2 m wide, mostly even ground that is levelled or has a gentle incline. The crag is next to the river and street; the vast majority of vehicles produce a continuos sound and stay mostly unnoticed behind the loud river's rushing, but the sportive drivers using high engine speed make communication difficult – so you may want to avoid first/last sunny weekend days of the year. 6/2022 weak mobile coverage. Large pick-nick table between parking and cliff.

Temperatures: In summer sunshine, some parts of the rock are quite hot to touch for a longer time. Mid June, at 17:00 the first rope length of right wall becomes shady, 17:45 first two rope lengths, 18:00 all. Many flies that do not bite but fly nearby the face. In winter time, probably (TODO: confirm with approximate dates or reject) always shady.

Einschränk. übernommen von France

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

Zustieg

From (45.79223, 6.48793) walk down the path, go straight through the pick-nick area with table, continue the steeper path (a little slippery due to leafs & needles) and walk down the stairs.

Übernachtung

Bakery Au Sommet des Anges in Crest-Volland is very friendly and offers great bread, tartes and sweets.

Ethik übernommen von France

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

More colorful rock offering less friction and containing few grains.

2-3 longer quickdraws come in handy where bolts are around the corner.

Bottom quite smooth for this crag and bolts spacious for the smoothness.

If you know whether this is part of "Vérifie ton noeud" or "L'Aérienne", please rename accordingly.

Bottom and middle quite smooth for this crag.

Bottom and middle quite smooth for this crag.

1 6c
2 3

More greyish, less colorful rock. In the lower part, mostly few & little grains, in the upper half bigger gravel.

1 4a
2 5c
3 3
1 4a
2 5b

3rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes.

1 6a+
2 3

2rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes.

If you know whether this route is called "La Croué" or another carries that name, please edit accordingly.

2rd pitch modeled as route on itself because that pitch can also be reached by various other routes.

1 4b
2 5a
3 4

If you know the real name, insert it and move current numer name into AKA field.

1 4a
2 3

Bigger distance between bolts than usual in this crag.

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Selected Guidebooks mehr Verbergen

Autor(en): François Burnier & Dominique Potard

Datum: 2023

ISBN: 9782910672294

Climbing in the mountains around Chamonix - surrounded by spectacular nature. A selective guidebook describing 37 separate climbing areas including 4 bouldering areas in Chamonix Valley.

Autor(en): Charlie Boscoe & Luke Davies

Datum: 2022

ISBN: 9781873341780

A selective guidebook for Chamonix describing the very best rock climbs and mountain routes around Chamonix and Mont Blanc. It covers all aspects of climbing in Chamonix, from topping out on Mont Blanc, spectacular peaks, classic long ridges, to intimidating north faces and valley sport climbing.

Autor(en): Fabrizio Calebasso & Matteo Pasquetto

Datum: 2020

ISBN: 9788885475816

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook to the Italian side of Mont Blanc, covering 66 crags/faces including the Tacul area, the Capucin area, Pavillon, and the Italian side of the Grande Jorasses.

Unterkünfte in der Nähe mehr Verbergen

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Mo 19 Jun
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