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Begehungen in Frankenjura Nord

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Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität Kletterer
Sa 16. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Krankenhaus
6C+ Bindeglied Boulder
Moe
6C+ 6C+/7A OP gelungen, Patient tot Boulder
Moe
Mo 11. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Klippen
6- Wurzelsepp Sport 10m Average
Denis Blum
7- ka Problem Sport 7m, 3 Average
Denis Blum
So 10. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten
6- R4a

Abgebrochen, verschneit und zu nass

Sport 15m
Johannes Kuschke
6 R4c Sport 22m Average
Johannes Kuschke
6+ R4 Sport 22m, 4 Average
Johannes Kuschke
7- Für Rocky und Oma Friedrich Sport 15m
Johannes Kuschke
So 10. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Kleinziegenfeld Schammendorfer Wand
4 Guidoweg

Great slab in decent rock. Longer than it looks when seen from the approach.

- mit bk201
Sport 15m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
6 Franz Krauss Gedenkweg

Short vertical sections at the beginning and the end, easy choss from ledge to ledge in between. Has an alpine feel to it, like many routes in the far north of the Frankenjura. Nice layback section at the last bolt.

- mit bk201
Sport 20m, 6 Good
Christoph Rauch
4 Guidoweg

You should wear a helmet at the whole crag. The route is nice and easy. It's also easy to identify. Just follow the line on the slab with the least choss around.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 15m, 3 Good
bk201
6 Franz Krauss Gedenkweg

The start is a bit tricky, but not very hard. The easy middle part is chossy with many fist-size loose rocks, so be careful. The last few meters to the top are fun layback moves. When pulling off the rope, you will be rained on by small rocks.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 20m, 6 Good
bk201
Mi 6. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Krankenhaus
6B Stefan's Idee Boulder
Moe
Mi 6. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Leinleitertal Burggrub Rotenstein
5 Nordwand

What an icy trip! Christoph Rauch first cleared the snow, then the rest of us seconded after him, which turned out to be a wise choice. Traversing to the anchor is quite sketchy, even without slippery frozen footholds. The pitch to the top is nice though, with a tricky finish. Following the old customs, I almost hit my head on the cross right after having heaved myself up onto the plateau.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 20m Very Good
Daniel
5 Nordwand

Another winter adventure. Less vegetation than last time; more snow and ice instead. Immediately at the beginning, I placed a skyhook, weighted it, and brushed as much of the snow off the small holds as possible. Then went back to the beginning and started the traverse. After just a meter, I used a stiff sling as a lasso to catch a good horn, then risked weighting a small, moist foothold that got the horn into reach. Grabbed it with both hands, swung around the corner and crawled through the snow onto the belay ledge. The second pitch looked much more climbable, but some holds between the first and second bolt were so wet from the snow that I couldn't feel my fingers at all. I carefully crept upwards, took a good rest in the giant bird bath and buckled up for the snow and grass leading to the final little wall which was fortunately dry. #puffpoint #snowpoint #jahreserste2021

- mit bk201, Ellen, Daniel
Sport 20m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
Di 5. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Frankendorf Kreuzerwand
5 Ostkante Gemischt trad 12m, 2
Johannes Kuschke
7- Moral Gemischt trad 12m, 2
Johannes Kuschke
5 Nordwand Gemischt trad 12m, 2
Johannes Kuschke
Sa 2. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottersmühler Wand
7 Stockduster Sport 13m Good
cooky
6- Winterweg Sport 28m Classic
cooky
Sa 2. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Gelber Turm
6+ Direkte Talseite - mit Tom Bösl Sport 28m Very Good
cooky
Sa 2. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Oberes Wiesenttal Treunitzer Klettergarten
6+ R11b Sport 15m
Johannes Kuschke
7+ 7- Klein aber gemein Sport 15m
Johannes Kuschke
6- Rockys wunderbare Welt der Schwerkraft Sport 22m
Johannes Kuschke
6 Besser is das Sport 13m, 4
Johannes Kuschke
6- R6 Sport 22m
Johannes Kuschke
6- R8 Sport 22m
Johannes Kuschke
6- R9 Sport 18m, 6
Johannes Kuschke
Fr 1. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Gößweinstein Napoleon
4+ Westwand

Traverse from the plateau through the west face in perfect rock, then up along the arête. Wet rock, but still easily climbable. First ascent of the year. We met a friend and his partner by chance at the base, so we decided to share: we climbed the "Napoleonswand" and they went up the "Napoleonsblock". #jahreserste2021

- mit monolith, bk201
Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
3 Plateau Normalweg

Easy crack dihedral with jugs. It was wet today, though, so I had to be really careful. Good placements for slings, nuts, cams, you name it.

- mit monolith, bk201
Traditionell 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
3 Plateau Normalweg - mit Christoph Rauch, bk201 Traditionell 15m Good
monolith
4+ Westwand (Obere Westwand)

The wet traverse on the start from the plateau was a bit daring as it was slippery and the holds wet.

- mit Christoph Rauch, bk201
Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Very Good
monolith
3 Plateau Normalweg

Nice and easy to the plateau, even when wet.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Traditionell 15m Good
bk201
4+ Westwand (Westwand P2) - mit Christoph Rauch Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Good
bk201
Do 31. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Muggendorf Obere Muggendorfer Wände
5+ Übergangsbewegung - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 15m Very Good
bk201
5 R9 - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 12m, 4 Good
bk201
5+ 6- Übergangsobjekt

Interesting filigree pocket structures at the top. Cruxy bit in the middle. #puffpoint

- mit bk201
Sport 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
5+ Übergangsbewegung

The hardest part is the start, then it gradually gets easier, but interesting.

- mit bk201
Sport 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
5 R9

Nice rock structures, especially the fossilised sponge in the middle.

- mit bk201
Sport 12m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
5 R9

Clipsticked the first bolt. In warmer conditions, it's probably fine to clip.

- mit Ellen
Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
Daniel
6- Übergangsobjekt - mit Ellen Sport 15m Very Good
Daniel
5+ Übergangsbewegung - mit Ellen Sport 15m Very Good
Daniel
Do 31. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
7 Drachen Sport 20m Very Good
Denis Blum
Do 31. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Wiesenttal Ebermannstadt Krankenhaus
7A Linker Quergang - mit Fab Boulder
Moe
6B+ Leistenbruch - mit Fab Boulder
Moe
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Ailsbachtal Wagnerfels Gerüchteküche
7- Kaum zu glauben (Verschneidungsvariante) Sport Good
cooky
8- 7+ Gerücht Sport 12m, 4 Good
cooky
7- Kaum zu glauben Sport 12m, 4 Good
cooky
7- Lauffeuer

2nd go

Sport 12m, 4 Good
cooky
6- Warmduscher Sport 10m, 3 Good
cooky
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Geckofels
7 Pepi

Fantastic, airy route in rough rock. Spicy bolt distances that can be cut short a bit using the odd cam in a pocket. The difficult passages are well-protected, though. Pretty long and nice pockets!

- mit Alex
Sport 25m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ Rosenstolz

Oh my. I climbed with high concentration and precision up to the last hard move. Then I got into a position where I would've had to dyno a bit. But didn't dare to … should've done it, as it would turn out. Worked out a static beta instead after sitting in the rope.

- mit Alex
Sport 10m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ Rosenstolz

The static beta didn't work out for some reason … so I went back to the dyno beta. But I found a good hook that makes clipping the crux bolt easier.

- mit Alex
Sport 10m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ Rosenstolz

The good hook … slipped. But I was so tired, I couldn't have done the crux move, anyway. Unfortunately, the wall is closed from January on, so I'll have to remember everything until summer (or rather fall, when the temperatures drop). Great wall climbing on pockets, slightly overhanging. Relatively short, but nevertheless sustained, with a crux towards the end.

- mit Alex
Sport 10m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Harvest of Thorns

#lastrouteoftheday when I was already completely drained. But I wanted to check out the top section, looked hard when Alex did it. Surprise: it is hard. But I didn't even reach that point before sitting in the rope.

- mit Alex
Sport 10m Good
Christoph Rauch
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Nankendorfer Block
7+ Nankendorfer Weg

Burly crack start. I once again overlooked the tiny "Löw loop" above the rusty ring in the crack … luckily, Alex made me aware of this fact. The rest is easier, but technical climbing. Some brittle and loose rock around, so take care. The route used to traverse out onto the ledge on the right. Better use the anchor of "Ni Fu Ni Fa".

- mit Alex
Sport 15m Average
Christoph Rauch
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Tiefenellern Herzogenreuther Wand
8+ 8+/9- Mandela Sport 10m
Stefan
6+ Berglerriss Sport 12m
Stefan
Mi 30. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Spies Ruine Riegelstein
6- Dobrindts Mautdesaster

Another tree-chimney topout

- mit Ellen
Sport 10m, 3
Daniel
5- Emsenriss

Had to rest due to frozen fingertips, but the hand crack was actually nice to jam into.

- mit Ellen
Sport 8m, 4
Daniel
6 Drängler

Did the tree-chimney at the top, to get past the icy holds.

- mit Ellen
Sport 10m, 3
Daniel
Mo 28. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Bärental Großer Juraturm
4 Talwand

Finally! When I passed the point where Christoph Rauch bailed yesterday, I could fully understand why. The climbing could actually be nice without the thick moss and dirt over every hold and foothold.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Gemischt trad 25m, 3
bk201
Mo 28. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Nankendorf Plankenstein
7- 7 Mimikri Sport
cooky
8 Tagträumer Sport 12m, 4 Very Good
cooky
Mo 28. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Bärental Großer Juraturm
4 Talwand

I couldn't leave my gear behind, so I just had to return as soon as possible and finish what I started. The first part went much smoother today, since we had already removed some of the moss from important footholds and more importantly the thorns. Set up belay in the original position, then I relatively quickly went up to the place where I had bailed yesterday, but realised that I had to sit in the gear at the ring to dig out a few more footholds. Everything was still slimy and full of dirt, but in the end I found a relatively reliable foothold to gain the big flake. However, what looked like the edge of the summit from below turned into steep grass with some protruding icy rocks. But I found another solid placement for a nut which gave me the courage to finally heave myself up onto the summit. Not exactly the best conditions, but maybe warm, dry moss would have been even worse? First party on the summit since 2014! I should come back some time and clean the route some more since it's actually really worthwhile! #jahreserste2020

- mit bk201
Gemischt trad 25m, 3
Christoph Rauch
So 27. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Weißmain-Alb Bärental Großer Juraturm
4 Talwand

I seconded until the first bolt to belay Christoph Rauch, but we had to call it a day at that point.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Gemischt trad 25m, 3
bk201
4 Talwand

From the ground, it looked like the first ten meters would be the problematic part of this endeavour. Oh what wrong an assumption that should turn out to be. Despite it being chossy and dusty, it was easy and you can place a few solid pieces before reaching the bolt on the ledge. There, I already had to set up belay because the way up was blocked by thorns. bk201 brought up scissors and saw, so the journey could go on. Interesting passage up the diagonal ledge to the little rock chamber (original end of pitch 1). From there on, most of the holds were initially covered in (frozen) moss. Dug around a lot and finally found a good cam placement next to the slightly unreliable rock tunnel, so I pushed on and reached the slab beneath the final wall. Unfortunately, the slab, too, was covered in frozen moss, which broke away after standing on it for a few seconds. I quickly put a carabiner in the rusty ring at the end of the slab and backed it up with a small cam. By this time, I had slipped quite a few times already and I realized that I didn't have any more sensible gear on me for the last few meters of climbing. I tried a few times to get over the last steep bit, but had to retreat in the end; lowered off my cam and the rusty bolt.

- mit bk201
Gemischt trad 25m, 3
Christoph Rauch
So 27. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Rondell
7B+ England grüßt Falkland

damn cold and windy day to try this classic. nice moves, nice line... will need warmer weather to really give it a go though...

- mit Klaus
Boulder
Nadja
So 27. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Hiltpoltstein Hexenküche back
5A Führerschein Boulder 4m
Johannes Kuschke
6C+ Moonwalk

Mit der linken Hand am top griff und dann mit der rechten Hand vom vereisten Griff weggeruscht wo es eigentlich schon gelaufen ist... war wohl doch einfach zu kalt 😄

Boulder 3m
Johannes Kuschke
6C+ Moonwalk Boulder 3m
Johannes Kuschke
6C+ Moonwalk Boulder 3m
Johannes Kuschke
6C+ Moonwalk Boulder 3m
Johannes Kuschke
6C+ Moonwalk Boulder 3m
Johannes Kuschke
Sa 26. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
5+ Ernst ist tot - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
5+ Ernst ist tot - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Wetterstein
3- Ostkante

Easy and not very spectacular climbing. Climbed with my backpack to avoid having to get back to the start after rappeling down. Nice view over the Trubachtal from the summit.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Gemischt trad 6m, 1 Average
bk201
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Fuchsstein
4 Munkertriss

Great crack line, but no crack skills needed at all. Jugs abound. Perfect route to practice placing gear.

- mit monolith
Gemischt trad 15m, 2 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
4 Munkertriss (Munkertriß)

Went third and placed one extra nut.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Gemischt trad 15m, 2 Good
bk201
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Wetterstein
2 3- Ostkante Gemischt trad 6m, 1
Christoph Rauch
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Fuchsstein
4 Munkertriss (Munkertriß)

With some pre set protection from Christoph Rauch and set another cam and sling on the way.

- mit bk201
Gemischt trad 15m, 2 Good
monolith
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Obertrubachtal Wetterstein
3- Ostkante

Long, steep scrambling to the start and then a few meters of climbing to the summit. Rapelled down as far as possible to avoid some of the steep terrain on the way back.

- mit Christoph Rauch, bk201
Gemischt trad 6m, 1 Average
monolith
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
5+ Ernst ist tot Sport Good
Denis Blum
6+ Croissant Sport Good
Denis Blum
8- Panna Cotta Sport Good
Denis Blum
Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Wichsenstein Röthelfels Main
6+ Spannungsfeld der Sinne Traditionell 30m
Johannes Kuschke
Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Wand
7- Tiergarten Sport 28m Very Good
cooky
6 5+ Alter Weg Gemischt trad 28m, 3 Good
cooky
Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Mittleres Wiesenttal Schottertaler Turm
6+ Linke Talseite

2nd go

Sport 15m Good
cooky
Sa 19. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Fränkische Schweiz Unteres Trubachtal Egloffstein Balkenstein
4 Via Urban

Nice little layback flake, finish on hollow, not entirely trustworthy blocks.

- mit monolith
Sport 10m, 3 Average
Christoph Rauch
7 Alter Weg

Good wall climbing with a crux on small holds in the middle.

- mit bk201
Sport 17m, 6 Good
Christoph Rauch
6+ Adventszeit

Great line along the obvious features in the middle of the wall. The third bolt is awkward to climb to, with groundfall potential. Also bigger distances above, but not dangerous.

- mit Daniel
Sport 17m, 5 Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Nikolaus

Not something you're leading more than once if you don't have to. The bolt distances by itself aren't dangerous, but there's a tree that has been happily growing for the last 20 years. Somebody cut it down at some point, but not at the base, so if you take a fall in the runouts, you might end up on the trunk. Should be cut down completely. Otherwise good route, quite sustained with lots of difficult passages quite high above the bolts. One nasty razor sharp crimp.

- mit Daniel
Sport 15m, 5 Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Knecht Ruprecht

Nice slab on slopers and some sidepulls. Funny blobby sloper pinches before the last bolt.

- mit Daniel
Sport 12m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
4 Via Urban - mit Ellen Sport 10m, 3 Good
Daniel
7 Alter Weg - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
Daniel

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