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Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität Kletterer
Mo 11. Jan 2021 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Klippen
6- Wurzelsepp Sport 10m Average
Denis Blum
7- ka Problem Sport 7m, 3 Average
Denis Blum
Do 31. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
7 Drachen Sport 20m Very Good
Denis Blum
Sa 26. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Croissant - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
5+ Ernst ist tot - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
5+ Ernst ist tot - mit Denis Blum Sport Very Good
Sven Scherer
So 20. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Hirschbach Schlaraffenland Teufelsrissmassiv
5+ Ernst ist tot Sport Good
Denis Blum
6+ Croissant Sport Good
Denis Blum
8- Panna Cotta Sport Good
Denis Blum
Mo 14. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Plecher Klippen
7- ka Problem - mit monolith Sport 7m, 3 Good
bk201
7+ Bist komisch - mit monolith Sport 10m, 3 Good
bk201
6A+ Nitzer Ebb Boulder
bk201
7- 7+ Bist komisch

Not a 7+ anymore with the block behind for the start.

- mit bk201
Sport 10m, 3 Good
monolith
7- ka Problem

Crux is at the second bolt (can be clipped with the undercling (left hand) at the first bolt).

- mit bk201
Sport 7m, 3 Average
monolith
7 Übel

Hard boulder problem at the start. I started more on the right side and took the undercling with the left hand and the two finger pocket above with the right.

- mit bk201
Sport 10m, 3 Good
monolith
Sa 12. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Neuhaus Weißenstein
7+ Panische Zeiten

Kalt Keine Kraft...

- mit Denis Blum
Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
Sven Scherer
7 Erste Affäre

Keine Kraft mehr Kalte Finger

- mit Denis Blum
Sport 14m, 3 Very Good
Sven Scherer
6- Muffengang - mit Denis Blum Sport 10m, 3 Very Good
Sven Scherer
6- Don't Worry, Be Happy - mit Denis Blum Sport 10m, 2 Very Good
Sven Scherer
6+ Eieruhr - mit Denis Blum Sport 8m, 3 Very Good
Sven Scherer
Do 3. Dez 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Krottenseer Turm
9 Chasin' the Trane Sport 25m, 6 Mega Classic
Jon Shen
9+ Hitch-Hike the Plane Sport 25m, 5 Mega Classic
Jon Shen
Di 24. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 25m Good
bk201
So 22. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
6+ Trebberla - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 13m, 4 Good
bk201
3 Südostwand - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 14m, 3 Good
bk201
1 Bergseite - mit Christoph Rauch Traditionell 13m
bk201
5 Südwand - mit Christoph Rauch Sport 13m, 2 Good
bk201
So 22. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung

Did this ascent in full darkness with head lamp on. The crux is on the first bolt. Sat there to figure out the holds and footholds in the dark and slided off with my feet one time almost over the crux.

- mit Ellen
Sport 25m Good
monolith
So 22. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
5 Südwand - mit Ellen Sport 13m, 2
monolith
6+ Trebberla - mit Ellen Sport 13m, 4
monolith
6 Aller Anfang ist schwer

The crux is over the second bolt.

- mit Ellen
Sport 13m, 3 Good
monolith
3 Südostwand - mit Ellen Sport 14m, 3
monolith
So 22. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
6- Bieringerverschneidung

Really tricky dihedral climbing, rewarding but challenging. Nuts and cams helpful, the bolts are quite spaced. Nowadays, the second pitch is unclimbable, it's just a pile of dirt and vegetation (and the interesting part is probably over, anyway).

- mit bk201
Sport 25m Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Sackwand

From the belay of "Bieringerverschneidung", traverse right and up to the overhanging dihedral. The traverse is a bit bold, less bolts than there were pegs in the old days. Crux at the beginning of the overhanging dihedral, then beautiful jugs to the top. Had quite the epic in the end, but luckily we didn't get benighted on the route. #lastrouteoftheday

- mit bk201
Sport 25m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
So 22. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Immer-Höher-Turm
1 Bergseite

Quite like a big mossy staircase. Relaxed, but not entirely trivial.

Traditionell 13m
Christoph Rauch
5 Südwand

Nice #warmup. Diagonally up left after the first bolt to the ledge, then a few nice moves over the bulge to the top.

- mit bk201
Sport 13m, 2 Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Sei Mutisch

Can't really claim the onsight here, I knew that there was a dyno involved. And quite the huge dyno for the grade! Built up momentum as much as I could and barely reached the target jug.

- mit bk201
Sport 13m Good
Christoph Rauch
6+ Trebberla

Nice wall climbing. Some hollow structures, but should be fine for another while. Crux at the third bolt. Short people need to take a detour to the left (and should therefore maybe extend the third bolt), but even for me it still felt hard for the grade. The last bulge is also a bit morpho if you don't want to do a bump to the good holds (which aren't visible from below).

- mit bk201
Sport 13m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
6 Aller Anfang ist schwer

Nice arête with really cool positions. Rewarding.

- mit bk201
Sport 13m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
3 Südostwand

Nice 3d climbing, quite hard for the grade.

Sport 14m, 3 Good
Christoph Rauch
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Untere Ankatalwand
7+ Frankengold Sport 23m Very Good
Philipp Stangl
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Ankatalwand Obere Ankatalwand
6+ Dirty Dancing Sport 15m Good
Philipp Stangl
6 Fruchtzwerg Sport 15m Good
Philipp Stangl
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Rabenfels
7 Direkter Richard Holzberger Gedenkweg Sport 27m, 11 Good
Hannes
8- Katalysator Sport 30m, 8 Mega Classic
Hannes
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Sittenbachtal Bolzenstein
9- Gargamel

Great line along the narrow south east face; mostly pockets with some nasty moves. One pocket after the second bolt was worse than I had expected so I jumped out to the arête. My feet cut loose, my woollen hat fell off, but luckily, I had exactly hit the hold on the arête, so I quickly rearranged my feet and continued to the next jug. Unfortunately, it's again not obvious how to continue from there, so my right arm slowly got pumped and I just had to use everything I had to cling to the arête. Used up the last bit of strength to throw my hand up into the fist jam in the crack. Super happy about the onsight.

- mit David X
Sport 12m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
7+ Bergseite

Nasty start that was done by stepping onto the belayer's shoulders in the old days. Climbed freely, it's a tough boulder on small pockets and crimps to the big old ring. The crack above is quite nice, but still not trivial.

- mit David X
Sport 10m Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Irrweg

Typical Bauernschmitt terrain. Interesting pocketed slab with good moves and really small holds in the crux before the anchor.

- mit David X
Sport 10m, 4 Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Stefano Longhi Gedenkweg

Interesting line and actually great climbing despite the rock quality at the start. Nice laybacking below the roof, tricky traverse to the arête, fist jam to reposition the body and haul up the jugs.

- mit David X
Sport 13m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Stefano Longhi Gedenkweg

Once more to clean the route and to read the book on the summit. More people should honour this tradition, the book is from the 80s and still almost empty!

- mit David X
Sport 13m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht
7 Schöne Absicht - mit Denis Blum Sport 12m Very Good
Sven Scherer
7 Schöne Absicht - mit Denis Blum Sport 12m Very Good
Sven Scherer
7 Schöne Absicht - mit Denis Blum Sport 12m Very Good
Sven Scherer
7- Schöner Riss - mit Denis Blum Sport 12m Very Good
Sven Scherer
7- Schöner Riss - mit Denis Blum Sport 12m Very Good
Sven Scherer
5- Schön Leicht - mit Denis Blum Sport 10m Good
Sven Scherer
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Westseite
7+ Der Kaiserin neue Kleider Sport Very Good
Martin Skalli
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Sittenbachtal Hohensteiner Kletterblock
7- Südwand

Nice #warmup in compact rock with small holds interspersed with enough good ones to clip the bolts. Feels longer than it is due to the bouldery character.

- mit David X
Sport 9m Good
Christoph Rauch
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Königstein Steinberg Südseite-Vordere Wände
7+ Route 777 Sport 13m Very Good
Martin Skalli
7+ Schnapszahl

harder than its left neighbour...

Sport 13m Very Good
Martin Skalli
7- Biomüsli Sport 12m Very Good
Martin Skalli
7- Biomüslikante Sport 12m Good
Martin Skalli
So 15. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht
7 Schöne Sabrina - mit Sven Scherer Sport 12m Average
Denis Blum
8- Schöne Aussicht - mit Sven Scherer Sport 12m Very Good
Denis Blum
7+ Schöne Sache - mit Sven Scherer Sport 12m Very Good
Denis Blum
Sa 14. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Plech Schöne Aussicht
7 Schöne Sabrina Sport 12m Average
Hannes
7- Schöner Riss Sport 12m Good
Hannes
8- Schöne Platte Sport 12m Average
Hannes
8- Schöner Leben Sport 12m Very Good
Hannes
Sa 14. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Förrenbachtal Kirchtalwände
5 B. und W. Weg

Nice route. Long runout at the end (but juggy).

- mit Lilly
Sport 14m Very Good
Simon
4+ Unnamed A - mit Lilly Sport 14m Very Good
Simon
6 Beerenweg

Bouldery start, nice Piaz moves in the middle. Bit polished.

- mit Lilly
Sport 16m Very Good
Simon
7- Andromeda

Looked nice and interesting with the flake in the middle. But the footholds are super polished. Hard for the grade, too?

- mit Lilly
Sport 16m
Simon
Sa 14. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
7- Harter Hund - mit Denis Blum Sport 22m Very Good
Sven Scherer
5 Softmover - mit Denis Blum Sport 22m Very Good
Sven Scherer
Sa 14. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Unteres Pegnitztal Zankelstein
5 Westkante

A friend and a nut by Christoph Rauch helped here. Solid warmup, and great rock quality in the upper half.

- mit Ellen
Sport 15m Very Good
Daniel
8- Direkte Talseite

Tried to go directly through the crux and failed. Took the left detour after all. The bolts are sparse, so it was nice having the (long) quickdraws put in there by Christoph Rauch. This was the last route of the day, otherwise I might have tried it once more.

- mit Ellen
Sport 20m Good
Daniel
7 Talseite

Awesome line, not easily done!

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 12m Very Good
Daniel
8+ Drachentöter

Very cool, but holding onto the arête is very much not my strong suite. I clipsticked almost every bolt but I think I did most of the moves at least. I'd need to be more in shape for this...

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 12m
Daniel
6+ Ostkante

Short and fun. It offers two cruxes, the upper one with an unusual (for me) crack where you can nicely jam a fist, then a foot. Well protected!

- mit Ellen
Sport 10m Good
Daniel
8+ Drachentöter

Fantastic, sunny arête in perfect rock. Hooks left and right, technical moves on sidepulls and an airy, overhanging finish on pockets along the arête a bit to the left.

- mit Daniel
Sport 12m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
5 Westkante

Quite open pockets for the grade, felt at least like 5+ or even 6- if you go directly over the bolts. You can always stick to the arête on the right, though, which makes it easier. But a nice climb and a good #warmup. Loose blocks in the beginning, though. A small nut before the first bolt is advised.

- mit Daniel
Sport 15m Good
Christoph Rauch
8- Direkte Talseite

Long, good climbing, less chossy than it looks, but still fragile. Spaced bolting that keeps you on edge, but not really dangerous. The crux at the bulge is ridiculously hard and probably has nothing to do with 8- if you don't go a bit left, which is then actually the line of "Kurva Němec" … makes the latter a bit useless. Fantastic easy finish over the little pillar.

- mit Daniel
Sport 20m Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Talseite

A great climb and a remarkable achievement for 1912. Legend has it that this was one of the first routes in Franken in which pitons were used as aid, which is understandable given that the bulge at the second bolt is pretty tricky and hard when climbed freely. Marvellous rock and a nice crack finish.

- mit Ellen
Sport 12m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
6- 6+ Ostkante

Interesting, but short climb along the east arête. Nice layback moves and a funny crack finish. Felt much easier than 6+.

- mit Daniel
Sport 10m Good
Christoph Rauch
Do 12. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Mittleres Pegnitztal Roter Fels
7+ Optimist

Long pocket climb with few good rest positions in the upper part, quite sustained; important to use the rest point below the final overhang! Almost dropped off just before the anchor. The start, unfortunately, is a bit crumbly, also the part around the old ring, so the first half feels a bit more like alpine climbing.

- mit Alex
Sport 27m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
8+ Bella Addizione

Incredibly long route with quite a few difficult passages, but with some good rest points. The hardest section is getting from the dihedral out onto the arête in the lower part without barndooring. The finish is marvellous: exposed climbing through the final overhang, just keep it together and climb, don't stop. The moves aren't too hard, the holds big enough. The longer your quickdraws are, the better.

- mit Alex
Sport 37m, 16 Classic
Christoph Rauch
7 Kunstflug

I thought I'd find the right line through the overhang this time, but seems like I only got it 80 percent right … it's so confusing when there are bolts everywhere and it's all climbable in some way. At least I found the right way to the belay of Jean Couzy via the flake and then also to the sling. No matter what you climb up there, it's awesome. The crux is down low anyway, high above the bolt. #warmup … sort of.

- mit Alex
Sport 37m Classic
Christoph Rauch
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximiliansturm
3 Wendeltreppe - mit Christoph Rauch, bk201 Traditionell 12m Good
monolith
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand
6+ 6 Südwand

The start from the block onto the wall may depend on the climbers height. Smaller climbers may need to use the small vertikal crack line up to the horizontal crack, instead of the big hole on the right, which otherwise can be reached from the block. The crack on top was strenuous and several times I though my arm or foot will just slip out of it but it didn't.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 15m Very Good
monolith
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Spitzer Turm
7 Alter Weg Direktausstieg (Alter Weg)

One hard crux between third and fourth bolt.

- mit Christoph Rauch
Sport 20m Good
monolith
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Beide Brüder
3+ Achsenkamin

If the legs of the climber are too short, there is a need of a daring drop hands first from one brother to the other to get into the chimney. ("Hände hoch, das ist ein Überfall." -belayer). Getting into the chimney was the hardest part. Would say it's definitely again some classic 3+ ;-) chimney climbing. Smaller climbers have more fun in this one .

- mit Christoph Rauch, bk201
Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Very Good
monolith
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximiliansturm
3 Wendeltreppe

Headlamp climbing. Funny crawl through the hole in the tower. #lastrouteoftheday

- mit monolith, bk201
Traditionell 12m Good
Christoph Rauch
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Maximilianswand Maximilianswand
6 Südwand

Great crack with a nice wall start. The crack is mostly fists and arms. A number 6 dragon cam is bomber after the bolt. Should be much longer. 😬

- mit monolith
Sport 15m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Spitzer Turm
8- Sempre Pace

More realistically an onsight, only tried this once five years ago. Nice wall climbing on small pockets. Not an easy one, still struggled a bit when all that was presented to me was two monos and a sloper above those.

- mit bk201
Sport 20m Very Good
Christoph Rauch
7 Alter Weg Direktausstieg

Short crux with small holds from where “Sempre Pace” branches off up to the crack. The rest is easier, with a few more burly moves to the top.

- mit monolith
Sport 20m Good
Christoph Rauch
So 8. Nov 2020 - Frankenjura Nord
Hersbrucker Schweiz Krottenseer Forst Steinerne Stadt Beide Brüder
3+ Achsenkamin

The chimney between the two towers starts at a height of 3 m over the ground, which makes it incredibly strenuous to get in. Funny business.

- mit monolith, bk201
Gemischt trad 10m, 1 Good
Christoph Rauch

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