Begehungen in Mittleres Pegnitztal

Hard

Hard

Hard

First bolt was already clipped. Used some additional protection placed by Christoph Rauch.

A bit easier than the zealously overbolted "Alte Talwand", but, I must admit, not as good. Draws to the left, almost to the arête, after the second ledge (look for the bolt). From there, straight up over blocky ledges to the top.

#jahreserste2024

Good classic that doesn't deserve the hate it gets from some guidebook authors. No choss in the route and it's also a really nice climb, especially for crack lovers. The direct finish is probably a tad harder, the original follows the old rings a bit to the left. Still, I think 6+ is fair.

A0 move to get around the arête, the rest is really good wall climbing. Roughly 7+, might also be harder. Reaching the belay at the start is a challenge on its own, your best (and safest) option is to abseil down to it.

Climbed it again to be able to abseil down to the beginning of Wolf-Albrecht-Gedenkweg, which is no longer easily reachable from the right, and neither from below because there's only choss and moss.

Pretty good for something that isn't on anybody's radar. Nice crack and dihedral climbing up to the middle, then cool traverse to the right, and an airy finishing dance on the arête, then either get to the easy terrain on the right or (bolder) climb directly up the arête.

Green point! 😬

Vorsicht, der Topanker ist in einem sehr dornigem Gebüsch versteckt

Mega Tour, Ausstieg leider lange nass

One of only two (mostly) dry routes at the crag today. Classic traverse through the wall, enjoyable dolomite stroll. Crux are the final few meters to the belay. Second pitch is easier but grassy and a little chossy up to the point where you merge into "Langer Riss".

The easier original is much less steep and juggy, thus making it the more homogeneous experience. There's one more Bühler bolt after the little traverse to the right, then straight up the crack (which was wet, so I struggled quite a bit nevertheless) to a tree.

Einfach nur gut!

Cleaning the route, getting to understand the moves, hard for the grade. I changed the old ropes on the route “Arielle” to the left.

Rainy day, two wet holds, still doable.

A bit tricky for shorter people.