Hilfe

Zugang: The owner of the field complains about parking

Even though the guides mention that you should lift the chain in the entrance near the road and pass, there is now a sign that basically says you should park outside. The owner of the field below the crag waited patiently for us to come down and got into a heated discussion on whether we should pay for parking or not. Park outside for your peace of mind.

Siehe Details & Diskussionen zur Warnung

Erstellt vor ungefähr zwei Jahren

Flora & Fauna: Cats in the crag

October 29, 2023: there were two hungry little cats in the crag. Probably they lived in Repondina camping during the summer, but the camping seemed closed yesterday. If you plan to visit the crag, consider taking some cat food with you. If you don’t meet the cats in the crag, you could leave some by the camping entrance on your way back.

Siehe Details & Diskussionen zur Warnung

Erstellt vor 5 Monaten

Saisonalität

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Übersicht

There are up to 42 technical routes from 5a-7a+ and up to 42m long on excellent, vertical grey/orange rock full of small pockets and footholds. The rock is very compact.

Beschreibung

Good for year-round climbing: afternoon climbing in hot months (though it can be stuffy on very hot days with no wind), morning climbing in colder weather A single 80m rope + 22 QDs. On the extensions, avoid rope drag by removing some of the quickdraws from beneath you after clipping the bolt in front of you. After 13:30. (The last four routes on the right have shade all day.) For day-long shade, combine Agios Andreas (morning) and Arcadia (afternoon).

Article and topo.

Zustieg

Arcadia is 33km north of Leonidio (172km from Athens).

  1. Arriving from Leonidio: Drive in the direction of Athens for 33km. Exactly 50m before the entrance of camping Repodina, turn left. A narrow dirt road leads to an olive grove. Park 100m further, near some boats amidst the trees (37.328840, 22.806754). From the parking, walk the concrete road for 100m, then follow cairns to the cliff.

Übernachtung

Staying at REPODINA or REMPONDINA campsite across the road. It also has a restaurant and a beach bar.

Ethik

Please in the parking, leave space for other cars and don’t park any further on this road, which leads to private land, and it’s hard to turn your car around. There may be a chain that appears to be blocking access to the dirt road, but it is not locked. Unclip it, pass through, and re-clip the chain.

Geschichte

Grafik zur historischen Entwicklung

Source: For years, whenever we drove to Leonidio from the north, our eyes landed on a compact grey cliff opposite a campsite built on a beach just 30 minutes before Leonidio. Because the cliff is so solid and the location near-perfect for the climbing holiday we kept it in mind as a future project and pictured all the potential routes that could be bolted. The future finally arrived in 2020 and the bolts were placed. Arcadia has everything to become a very popular sector. The local community was instrumental in bringing sector Arcadia to fruition. The project was funded mainly by the local municipality and prefecture, and the owners of the olive grove around the cliff graciously permitted developers to bolt. Routes were equipped in autumn 2020 by the following CLIMB GREECE team: Aris Theodoropoulos, Claude Idoux, Dimitris Titopoulos, Dimitra Klaoudatou, Kostas Grafanakis, Tiia Porri, and Chris Ziavras. More routes will be added in the future.

Tags

Routen

Route(n) hinzufügen Topo hinzufügen Neu sortieren Stapelbearbeitung Konvert. Grade
Schwierigkeitsgrad Route

Big holds that leads to an interesting pillar.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

A juggy first part leads to a harder technical 2nd part.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

A thought-provoking pocketed groove with long reaches on the top part.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

[Originally graded 6a by the equippers.]

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Warnung Ausrüstung: One of the bolts of the top anchor is loose.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Warnung Ausrüstung: One of the bolts of the top anchor is loose.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

A tricky dihedral in the middle.

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

[Originally graded 6c by the equippers.]

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Warnung Ausrüstung: Anchor bolt

[Originally graded 7a by the equippers.]

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Warnung Ausrüstung: Loose bolt

Juggy and densely bolted above the ledge to a bouldery crux on the grey and spiky flake and bulge. Grade contributions will be helpful as guidebook-grades differ by a lot. [Originally graded 7b by the equippers.]

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

[Originally graded 6c+ by the equippers.]

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

Erschliesser: Aris Theodoropoulos & partners, 2020

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Di 25 Apr
Finde heraus, was in Arcadia passiert.

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