Alpi Carniche Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Alpi Carniche 708 routes in Region

9 10 11 8 13 14 6 4 15 12 3 5 2 1 7

1 Monte Strabut 2 Villa Santina 3 Raveo 4 Torre Cladump 5 Torrione Comici 6 Dolomiti Pesarine 7 Forni di Sotto 8 Forni Avoltri 9 Peralba-Chiadenis-Avanza 10 Coglians - Chianevate 11 Passo Monte Croce Carnico 12 Sernio-Grauzaria-Zuc dal Bôr 13 Cason di Lanza 14 Creta D'Aip - Cavallo di Pontebba 15 Rio degli Uccelli

Summary:

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M

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Saisonalität

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.505121, 13.076469

1.1. Monte Strabut 71 routes in Area

1 3 2

1 Illegio Alta 2 Gjalinar 3 Strabut

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.411199, 13.032294

1.1.1. Illegio Alta 0 routes in Cliff

1.1.2. Gjalinar 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.403764, 13.037366

1.1.3. Strabut 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.406325, 13.039922

1.2. Villa Santina 96 routes in Area

3 4 5 2 1

1 Masso Inceneritore 2 Pilastro Mazzilis 3 Pilastro Agip (Eni) 4 La Chiesetta 5 Madrabau

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.416634, 12.942788

1.2.1. Masso Inceneritore 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.410213, 12.974247

1.2.2. Pilastro Mazzilis 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.413976, 12.942790

1.2.3. Pilastro Agip (Eni) 0 routes in Crag

1.2.4. La Chiesetta 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.416093, 12.931086

1.2.5. Madrabau 36 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.415956, 12.934863

1.2.6. Villa Nuova 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

1.3. Raveo 49 routes in Area

3 1 2

1 Pilastro Bonan 2 Raveo Cuel di Nuvolae 3 Tiere nere - Raveo

Summary:

Sportklettern und Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.434457, 12.880346

1.3.1. Pilastro Bonan 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.425968, 12.885804

Zustieg

The parking is a large area on the left, after crossing the second bridge, after the town of Esemon di sopra. From there, continue by walking on the main road in the direction of Raveo for about two hundred meters. At a wooden fence on the right, take the path uphill in the woods to reach the base of the walls. At the first crossroad (signs for parco comunale delle colline carniche) keep right. The first sector you reach is Bonan, continuing on the path you reach the Tacs sector after about 100 m. From parking to Bonan: distance 0,75 km, elevation gain 150 m+ From parking to Tacs: distance 0,85 km, elevation gain 165 m+

1.3.2. Raveo Cuel di Nuvolae 19 routes in Crag

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.424002, 12.888893

1.3.3. Tiere nere - Raveo 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.443308, 12.871072

1.4. Torre Cladump 0 routes in Crag

1.5. Torrione Comici 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Klettersteig

Lat / Long: 46.433954, 12.626283

1.6. Dolomiti Pesarine 3 routes in Area

2 1

1 Creton di Culzei (2456 m) 2 Col dei mughi

Summary:

Klettersteig und Eisklettern

Lat / Long: 46.542710, 12.707180

1.6.1. Creton di Culzei (2456 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Klettersteig

Lat / Long: 46.528902, 12.676860

1.6.2. Col dei mughi 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Eisklettern

Lat / Long: 46.548349, 12.685151

1.6.3. Creton dell' Arco (2353 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Klettersteig

1.7. Forni di Sotto 38 routes in Crag

2 3 1

1 Settore Radio 2 2 Settore Al Zambol 3 Settore Lavagna

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.400018, 12.671314

Zustieg

The crags are just north of the city. Park the car at the graveyard and follow the road going along the small river. Pass a bridge and you'll see a sign indicating the crags. Turn right up the hill, towards the rocks. Soon you'll see an information sign.

1.7.1. Settore Radio 2 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.399912, 12.670472

1.7.2. Settore Al Zambol 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.400118, 12.672153

1.7.3. Settore Lavagna 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.399960, 12.672180

1.8. Forni Avoltri 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.583859, 12.775855

Übersicht

Beautiful cliff with excellent rock. All types of climbing, from technical slabs to overhanging.

Beschreibung

Good sun exposure, but given the altitude best time is from March to October.

1.9. Peralba-Chiadenis-Avanza 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und Klettersteig

Lat / Long: 46.627280, 12.727906

1.9.1. Dente del Pescecane (2418 m) 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.625408, 12.730477

1.9.2. Pic Chiadenis (2488 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.625961, 12.730251

1.9.3. Monte Chiadenis (2449 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Klettersteig

Lat / Long: 46.627280, 12.727906

1.10. Coglians - Chianevate 3 routes in Area

3

3 Coston Stella (1850 m)

Summary:

Sportklettern, Klettersteig und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.600863, 12.879552

1.10.1. Torrione Spinotti (2115 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle traditionelles Klettern

1.10.2. Coston Stella (1850 m) 1 route in Area

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.597031, 12.880545

1.11. Passo Monte Croce Carnico 374 routes in Area

2 3 5 1 6 4

1 Placche Val di Collina (1627 m) 2 Spallone Sud-Est del Cellon (1644 m) 3 Pal Piccolo 4 Oleodotto 5 Parete di Avostanis (2070 m) 6 Gamspitz (1848 m)

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.597224, 12.973659

Übersicht

This region includes Monte Coglians (Hohe Warte) and the Pal Piccolo (Kleiner Pal) and is located East and West of the Passo di Monte Croce Carnico (Plöckenpass) at the Italian/ Austrian border.

Beschreibung

On theCrag this area includes the crags on the Italian side of the Passo di Monte Croce Carnico. Please refer to Plöckenpass for the crags on the Austrian side.

1.11.1. Placche Val di Collina (1627 m) 18 routes in Area

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.593912, 12.925406

Beschreibung

Plattige Wand mit bestem Fels und bis zu 5 Seillängen.

Kletterführer: I. Neumann "Klettern in den Karnischen Alpen"

Zustieg

Entweder über steile Schotterstraße auf der italienischen Seite des Passes (kein Fahrverbot) - dann 5 Minuten. Oder in 45 Minuten zu Fuß vom Pass.

1.11.2. Spallone Sud-Est del Cellon (1644 m) 62 routes in Area

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.602711, 12.942795

1.11.3. Pal Piccolo 149 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.600455, 12.951278

Übersicht

Wonderful cliffs on excellent rock with up to 5 pitch long routes with a beautiful alpine panorama.

Beschreibung

The climbing requires physical fitness, finger strength, excellent technique and a strong head.

Pal Piccolo was also the location of the "Find your way" festivals in 2014 and 2015.

Zustieg

The sectors are located around Passo di Monte Croce Carnico (Plöckenpass) and relatively easy reachable from the road. See individual sectors for details.

Geschichte

Originally developed in the 1980's (in 1986 a climbing festival - Arrampicarnia - was held) this cliff hasn't seen any developments for almost 20 years. Only with the ascent of Slivowitz by Mattia Casanova in 2010 the potential of the cliff was re-discovered, culminating in multiple visits by Adam Ondra who freed some of the old classics.

1.11.4. Oleodotto 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.588501, 12.983613

Beschreibung

Falesia che si sviluppa sulle evidenti pareti visibili dal paesino di Timau guardando verso Nord-Ovest, alla sinistra del Fontanon.

Sopra le pareti passa il sentiero CAI per Pal Grande.

Einschränkungen

Il piazzale davanti al traforo dell'oleodotto è proprietà privata videosorvegliata.

Zustieg

Da Timau seguire la strada SS 52 bis verso l'Austria; superato il Fontanon, poco dopo, prendere sulla destra la strada per il traforo dell'oleodotto Transalpino (cartello in legno Via Julia Augusta).

Primo Settore

Seguire la strada sterrata fino alla sbarra del piazzale dell'oleodotto senza oltrepassarla (proprietà privata), guardando le pareti sovrastanti prendere una traccia di sentiero che parte sopra il muretto davanti a voi e si inserisce nel bosco. La traccia prosegue pianeggiante verso sinistra fino ad una piccola cava di marmo abbandonata; da questo punto la pendenza aumenta. Seguire inizialmente degli scalini di legno ricavati nel terreno, quindi seguire la traccia risalendo il pendio e puntando alla base della parete. Una volta risaliti si arriva al primo settore della falesia.

Secondo settore

Per raggiungere il secondo settore continuare a seguire la traccia verso sinistra, inizialmente questa passa alla base delle rocce poi traversa in diagonale il pendio boschivo (prestare attenzione al passo data la pendenza in alcuni passaggi e la presenza di foglie secche). La traccia termina naturalmente al limite sinistro del pendio boschivo (dirupato da qui in poi) nei pressi di una grotta ( https://catastogrotte.regione.fvg.it/scheda/7855-TM_02 ); si è arrivati al secondo settore.

1.11.5. Parete di Avostanis (2070 m) 128 routes in Area

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.599000, 13.019778

1.11.6. Gamspitz (1848 m) 0 routes in Area

1.12. Sernio-Grauzaria-Zuc dal Bôr 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.462986, 13.170474

1.12.1. Creta Grauzaria 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sportklettern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 46.462986, 13.170474

1.13. Cason di Lanza 18 routes in Area

1

1 Placca di Lanza

Summary:

Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.565278, 13.178639

Übersicht

Limestone slabs

Beschreibung

Two walls, one very accessible but small, the second with more routes but that requires some minutes to be reached. Limestone slabs with interesting shapes.

Übernachtung

The nearby hut can offer accomodation

1.13.1. Placca di Lanza 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sportklettern und Klettersteig

Lat / Long: 46.564800, 13.173567

Beschreibung

Short and simple routes

Zustieg

From Passo Cason di Lanza, follow the road that descends to Pontebba. After 100-200m the crag will be on your left, appearing through the trees.

1.13.2. Val Dolce 13 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Beschreibung

From Passo Cason Di Lanza, take the road to Casera Val Dolce (past the hut, to its right). Following the road, a sign indicating the way to the crag is encountered.

1.14. Creta D'Aip - Cavallo di Pontebba 0 routes in Area

1.14.1. Torre Winkel (2042 m) 0 routes in Area

1.15. Rio degli Uccelli 18 routes in Crag

1

1 Settore Lomasti

Summary:

Alle Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 46.515992, 13.323304

Übersicht

Small but we'll bolted crag very near to the city of Pontebba. Sloped to vertical routes, plus a few roofs.

Beschreibung

Crag next to the river "Rio degli Uccelli". Sloped routes are we'll bolted with resin bolts. There is a sign describing all the routes. Also, four routes for children or beginners are present.

Zustieg

Starting from Pontebba main square, direction Tarvisio, at the post office turn left and follow then "Via Deposito", keeping the right until you see a left turn with a sign "Climbing Wall". The road turns to gravel and there is a parking for the cars. The crag can be seen in the river's gorge nearby.

Übernachtung

The city of Pontebba Is very close, and offers accomodations

1.15.1. Settore Lomasti 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 46.516237, 13.324553

1.15.2. Placca Alta 4 routes in Sector

Summary: