Ben Oahu Range Klettern 2 Routen in Gebiet

The eye catching southwest buttress gained from upper valley in Freds Stream, on the south west outlier of Mt Lloyd. Climb centre of delightful face for six pitches of about grade 12. Then complete a series of pinnacles and short walls. The upper part of the route provides a crux grade 16 pitch on a 40m wall. About 350 m, 14 pitches in total.

The fastest way to access W Face of Huxley is to 4WDthe Ahuriri to Hagens Hut and then walk the 3 hours (10km, 350m vert to a good campsite at 1200m). From there the base of the route is approx. 2 hours away. An approx. 5 hr descent of the East Ramp/ V-Notch Pass awaits those who successfully top out this route. The face can also be accesssed from the South Huxley River or South Temple River (times vary greatly but they are long valley approaches on foot).

Accessed on left side of pinnacle, between pinnacle and glacier. Climb rib above glacier, to left of 42 St. Climb left angling crack to crest of rib, then follow crest. 4 pitches to easier ground. Continue up rib to left of hanging snow patch. Traverse left to gain crest of pinnacle, before swinging onto slab on left side of pinnacle. Finish up amazing splitter cracks to summit ridge.