Routen in Südafrika für ausgewählte Schwierigkeit

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

An easy gully above 'Cactus Crag' giving access to the top of the krantz and the shortest way out to upper Cedarberg Kloof.

Comprises the lowest easy point of access on the right at the top end of the kloof. Commences about 20m downstream of 'Grey Gully' . The Twins provide an easy landmark for its location.

An easy gully leading to the bed of the kloof. A prominent landmark at the top of this gully consists of two rock columns or undercut pinnacles (The Twins).

This gully is the most convenient route of access to the general climbing area from the north.

An easy route on the right of the kloof next to a group of large boulders.

The easiest sport route in the country/Africa/Southern hemisphere? Almost anyone should be able to lead it even with no previous climbing experience. Climb the face 8m right of the short gully. First ascent: Soloed in the 80’s.

The obvious decent route with tree at base.

Sit start on the lower part of the arête and climb directly up on big holds. Grade still open to consensus.

Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can count. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally right (as for 'Bongo'). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse leftwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully down climb to the ground in the corner.

Before you go down into the gully there are 2 short routes on the right. 5m right of 'Wall Banger'. Climb the left line to anchors on the right

Ref: MCSA Journal 1945, pg 34.

Juggy face.

Climb the very blunt arete -pretty cool, but high.

Climb the arete.

Climb up and over the juggy bulge on the left.

Sit-start with both hands in scoop. CD to TO.

Sit-start, climb the juggy layback crack, CDR to TO.

Sit start on flakes and climb directly up.

Start on the underclings and climb the face.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Climb up the juggy slab any way you want.

Climb the slabby arête.