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England Guide

  TRADITIONELL 34%   UNBEKANNT 32%   BOULDER 20%   SPORT 9%   TOPROPE 2%   DEEP WATER SOLO .2%  TECHNISCH .1%

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. England 39,664 routes in Region

2 1 3 5 4
1 Peak District 2 Northern England 3 Midlands 4 South-West England 5 South East England
Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Saisonalität

traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 52.774502, -1.840212

1.1. Peak District 14,097 routes in Region

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2 3 1
1 Peak District Limestone 2 Western Gritstone 3 Eastern Gritstone
Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 53.341061, -1.797008

1.1.1. Peak District Limestone 3,541 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Sportklettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 53.209268, -1.735191

Übersicht

One of the best climbing locations in the UK with plenty of sport and traditional climbing areas.

Beschreibung

Located in the Peak District, consisting of natural limestone cliffs and huge abandoned quarries. Some famous (Eye of the Tiger) hard trad test pieces and one of the world's first 9a (Hubble) routes are located here.

Einschränkungen

For up-to-date access information please visit the BMS RAD database. https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/

Zustieg

Train - Matlock, Chesterfield, and Sheffield are all well serviced. Car - Same cities are all well serviced via the M1 motorway, the local roads up to the crags are all very reasonable and scenic.

Übernachtung

Plenty of B&B and hotels in the area. Youth hostel (YHA) is available in Matlock, Eyam, Ilam and Ravenstor.

Ethik

Being a national park, consult the local guide books and the regional access database for any closures. As usual, Nesting birds, and protected flora should be preserved. Some crags are on Private land, and therefore act reasonably if asked to leave.

Geschichte

Hugely important crag.Seminal ascents by Moon, Moffat, Mcclure etc.A mecca for hard sport and bouldering.

1.1.2. Western Gritstone 4,489 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 53.472191, -1.898135

1.1.3. Eastern Gritstone 6,062 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und Klettern

Lat / Long: 53.255838, -1.616095

1.2. Northern England 16,214 routes in Region

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Summary:
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 54.518786, -1.994209

Beschreibung

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.1. Yorkshire 8,727 routes in Region

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Summary:
Klettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 53.857493, -1.359412

Beschreibung

Except https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district.

1.2.2. Cumbria 5,987 routes in Region

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: 54.574702, -2.944445

1.2.3. Lancashire 99 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 53.852654, -2.630965

1.2.4. Greater Manchester 151 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und Klettern

Lat / Long: 53.534158, -2.304071

Beschreibung

The area around Manchester, roughly a half an hour drive.

1.2.5. Tyne and Wear and Durham 461 routes in Region

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Klettern

Lat / Long: 54.768133, -1.568666

1.2.6. Northumberland 775 routes in Region

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 55.251243, -2.021037

1.2.7. The Wirral 0 routes in Region

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Übersicht

Sandstone esoterica

1.2.8. Cheshire 14 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: 53.332915, -2.750623

Übersicht

Cheshire's very own bouldering wall

Beschreibung

Great venue with lots of potential

Einschränkungen

None

Zustieg

5 minute walk in

Übernachtung

Liverpool

Ethik

No chipping

Geschichte

N/A

1.3. Midlands 2,514 routes in Region

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33 32 29 30 31 28 8 25 26 27 12 9 17 7 13 20 14 15 18 16 21 3 1 23 24 4 22 5 19 6 2 11 10
1 Shropshire 2 Markfield Quarry 3 Hangingstone Quarry 4 Beacon Hill 5 Forest Rock 6 The Brand 7 Charnwood Quarry 8 Staffordshire 9 Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 10 Granitethorpe Quarry 11 Croft Crags 12 Grace Dieu Boulder 13 High Sharpley 14 Ratchet Hill 15 Whitwick Quarry 16 High Tor 17 Blackbrook Reservoir 18 Oaks Pinnacle 19 Bardon Hill 20 The Outwoods 21 Hangstone Rocks 22 Windmill Hill 23 Craig Buddon 24 Mountsorrel Crags 25 Anchor Church Caves 26 Ticknall Lime Yards 27 Carver's Rocks 28 Odeon Quarry 29 Pleasley Vale 30 William Hollins 31 Pleasley Chimney Wall 32 Pleasley Park Quarry 33 Hollin Hill
Summary:
Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 52.696777, -1.491390

Übersicht

Great for when you can't access anywhere else

Beschreibung

All the random crags between London and the Peak District (https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/united-kingdom/england/peak-district)

Geschichte

See http://www.leicesterclimbs.f9.co.uk/Intro.htm#ACK for a detailed area history

1.3.1. Shropshire 227 routes in Area

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.730143, -2.910604

1.3.2. Markfield Quarry 53 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.688089, -1.282952

Übersicht

Markfield Quarry

Beschreibung

Quarried granite hill with a selection of slabby and steeper routes

Einschränkungen

Signage says no climbing, but there is no official ban. Be discrete

Zustieg

Park at the car park directory outside and walk 5 minutes right (shorter) or left around the fence until you see rocks.

There have been multiple complaints of car break-ins on UKClimbing.

1.3.3. Hangingstone Quarry 13 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 52.730739, -1.223769

Übersicht

Slate Quarry

1.3.4. Beacon Hill 54 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.728980, -1.248233

1.3.5. Forest Rock 98 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.722215, -1.214358

1.3.6. The Brand 33 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.713939, -1.206565

Beschreibung

The Brand is the name of the house owned by the Martin family. Over the years a very good relationship with the family has been built up with the local climbing community. This has resulted in there being no problem with people climbing providing they have contacted the family or their land agent, and been given permission.

Einschränkungen

Access is strictly limited to parties having permission to climb from the family. You should telephone first and follow the instructions given.

You may or may not be granted permission to climb; this is at the family’s discretion.

You will be asked to park at the house.

Climbers are asked not to destroy the excellent relationship that exists with the family by climbing without permission and leaving litter.

It is useless to trespass because the crag is plainly visible from the house.

The garden is also a Site of Special Scientific Interest because of the rare lichen and fern species situated here.

1.3.7. Charnwood Quarry 0 routes in Crag

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1.3.8. Staffordshire 996 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Bouldern, traditionelles Klettern und Klettern

Lat / Long: 53.075983, -1.923713

Beschreibung

Staffordshire is a county south west of the Peak District National Park. There are both gritstone and limestone crags with bouldering, and both trad and sport routes on good quality rock.

1.3.9. Cademan Wood and Broad Hill 361 routes in Area

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.750908, -1.350864

Übersicht

Tors and boulders of volcanic breccia scattered around Cademan Wood and Broad Hill.

Einschränkungen

Cademan Woods has become increasingly popular with climbers, however, this increased traffic is presenting a threat to continued access. Please keep an eye on the access advice on UKC.com which will be more up to date than this guide. Many of the issues that come with increased traffic can be addressed if we park sensibly and pick up any litter found. Climbers need to show that they are having a positive impact on the local environment and community.

1.3.10. Granitethorpe Quarry 12 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.539010, -1.271738

1.3.11. Croft Crags 12 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.558257, -1.248605

1.3.12. Grace Dieu Boulder 18 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.754460, -1.360964

1.3.13. High Sharpley 30 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.747594, -1.334587

1.3.14. Ratchet Hill 13 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.742590, -1.340376

1.3.15. Whitwick Quarry 7 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.739638, -1.341323

1.3.16. High Tor 38 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.738452, -1.328113

1.3.17. Blackbrook Reservoir 10 routes in Crag

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.749875, -1.313548

1.3.18. Oaks Pinnacle 32 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.739211, -1.309218

1.3.19. Bardon Hill 46 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.713921, -1.319264

1.3.20. The Outwoods 21 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.744880, -1.240202

1.3.21. Hangstone Rocks 13 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.732680, -1.227333

1.3.22. Windmill Hill 15 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.724102, -1.222296

1.3.23. Craig Buddon 24 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.729469, -1.175780

1.3.24. Mountsorrel Crags 47 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.729016, -1.139563

1.3.25. Anchor Church Caves 11 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.841629, -1.495674

1.3.26. Ticknall Lime Yards 11 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich Bouldern

Lat / Long: 52.810425, -1.466926

1.3.27. Carver's Rocks 15 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 52.800492, -1.510057

1.3.28. Odeon Quarry 26 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 53.134306, -1.199995

1.3.29. Pleasley Vale 173 routes in Crag

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und Sportklettern

Lat / Long: 53.181501, -1.211908

1.3.30. William Hollins 24 routes in Unknown

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Summary:
Bouldern und traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 53.179808, -1.228170

1.3.31. Pleasley Chimney Wall 21 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 53.178294, -1.229527

1.3.32. Pleasley Park Quarry 12 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 53.184799, -1.234305

1.3.33. Hollin Hill 48 routes in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 53.270352, -1.238837

1.4. South-West England 5,722 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 50.892858, -3.855621

1.4.1. Somerset 2,122 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Klettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 51.383509, -2.599851

1.4.2. North Devon 58 routes in Region

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Summary:
Klettern, traditionelles Klettern und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 51.082406, -4.137251

1.4.3. Dartmoor 207 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Bouldern und Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.567508, -3.930675

1.4.4. South Devon 167 routes in Region

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Summary:
Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 50.425770, -3.747443

1.4.5. Cornwall 210 routes in Region

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.437921, -4.974958

1.4.6. Lundy Heritage Coast 94 routes in Region

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Summary:
Hauptsächlich traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 51.178289, -4.667579

1.4.7. Gloucestershire 862 routes in Region

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Summary:
traditionelles Klettern, Sportklettern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 51.759581, -2.478527

1.4.8. Dorset 2,000 routes in Region

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Summary:
Sportklettern, Bouldern und andere Stile

Lat / Long: 50.576102, -2.197954

1.4.9. M5 motorway bridge 1 route in Crag

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Summary:
Alle traditionelles Klettern

Lat / Long: 50.688289, -3.482886

1.5. South East England 1,117 routes in Region

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Summary:
Top Roping und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 51.175914, -0.068323

1.5.1. Upnor, Rochester 1 route in Crag

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Summary:
Alle Klettern

Lat / Long: 51.296914, 0.432136

1.5.2. Kent 1,101 routes in Area

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Summary:
Top Roping und Bouldern

Lat / Long: 51.106527, 0.128743

1.5.3. Greater London 15 routes in Area

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Summary:
Alle Bouldern

Lat / Long: 51.506426, -0.029833

1.5.4. Saltdean 0 routes in Crag

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Übersicht

Careful climbing on chalk cliffs with axes and crampons

1.5.5. Boulder Brighton 0 routes in Gym

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Beschreibung

http://www.boulderbrighton.com

1.5.6. Craggy Island 0 routes in Gym

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Beschreibung

http://www.craggy-island.com

1.5.7. Eastbourne, DOP 136 suite, BN21 2UD 0 routes in Boulder

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Beschreibung

Wall of the section 136 suite which has the door and window on it. Route start at either end of wall and finishes at the other side. Left to right is far easier than right to left.

Zustieg

Entry with police via a section 136

Geschichte

Previously used to cage ill people.

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