This is a public discussion in Herbaceous Gully.
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Beta on Tal (Narrow Neck)
Hi all, can anyone give me some beta on Tal? I have the description from Ewbanks guidebook but I've had a hard time using it before; it's too vague for me and I don't think this will be very different. Any tips and details on individual pitches, good belay/anchor points, gear needed, etc would be super welcome. I know part of climbing is route finding and discovery but I'm still getting there as trad is relatively new to me. Thanks!
If you click on ascents of that route there is quite a bit of beta from the 60 or so people who have done it previosly. Ive done Tol nearby and remember Tal looked like a fairly obvious and well worn line. There are rap ring bolts on the top ledge right of Tol that allow rapping back to the ground with double ropes (or two raps with a single rope).
Any reason you aren't using the modern 2015 Simon Carter guide to the Bluies? It has easy to follow dirextions and descriptions (and photos/maps)
<disclaimer: I last did this ~20 years ago>
Apart from knowing that you're heading diagonally up and left from the start, my recollection is that it's a pretty obvious line of easy terrain. I don't recall needing any "specialty" gear - at the time I generally climbed with a single rack of wires and cams up to #3.5 camalot. YMMV.
Also, a nice combo is to do the first pitch of Tal, rap off some bolts (above '008', I think?) then do Tol (a mega classic!) all the way to the top. My recollection is that the bolts we rapped off were carrots, and we collected our gear off them from the first belay on Tol, before continuing upward.
Hi guys, thanks so much for the tips. Super appreciated. I do have Simon Carter's guidebook but the description is not much different from what is in Ewbanks guide, so I was hoping for a bit more. But from your comments and talking to some people it sounds like it's a bit of "follow your nose"
One could be further amused by old Bryden's original Pitch 5 description "100ft Battle up the first bit preferably at speed or else one gets tired." Good luck Arianne!
Because the Ewbank guide rocks !! Modern guides are lame by comparison ...
I agree - what happened to crag history that used to form a great part of the guides?
Feel free to write a crag history and paste it into thecrag "history" field for any crag you like.