Discussion: Camel's maintenance

  • Started: 3 months ago on Tue 28th Jan 2020

Public discussion This is a public discussion in Camels Hump.

@dalai started this discussion 3 months ago.

Camel's maintenance

On behalf of the #CCC, Bob and I have been fitting replaceable wear points to existing DRB anchors at Camel's. The premature wear was particularly noticeable at the Back wall as many people have been incorrectly top roping directly through the anchors.

So far all hardware has been donated by awesome people who love The Hump as much as we do!

Currently 9 anchors have been fixed - all the Back wall have now either 8mm twisted shackles or mallions and welded rings. Lower Tier - State of Shock DRB is now sporting mallions and welded rings Omega Block - given the routes popularity 6mm twisted shackles removed from Boogie and replaced with the beefy welded ring mallion combination. These shackles were transferred to An Evil Brew for the time being. Other anchors now with the combination replaceable wear points are Bop Till Ya Drop and Bloodline. Last anchor without anything that I could see is Wee Ripper which I will fix shortly. Others are either those 6mm twisted shackles or an old mallion so planning to update these also. As appreciative I am of someone adding these 6mm twisted shackles (Boogie's higher RB was showing noticeable wear) I would like to update when I receive more donations.

Given the number of anchors still needing updating to protect them I have ordered enough for 4 more sets but still need more. If anyone would like to order 8mm mallions and Raumer / Fixe stainless rings (been ordering through ClimbingAnchors) it would be much appreciated.

As I only boulder these days, I don't have current knowledge of the anchors across the hill (I.e Grey arete and Sluts). So would appreciate people posting details of anchors still needing updating too.

@dalai replied 3 months ago.

Also given the Back Walls popularity, I would like to see if we can organise a working bee to stabilise the base like the VCC did in conjunction with PV in the late 90's at the Omega Block. Plus rope off and put up keep out revegetation signs out from the base of the Back wall as people have been spreading out further and further away from the base and it shows.


Anthony Cuskelly replied 3 months ago.

Good call regarding Back Wall, count me in for helping with that.

I've got some new beefy stainless mallions at home that you're welcome to, I'll see what I can do about rings.

replied 3 months ago.

I can help out with the working bee as well

@dalai replied 3 months ago.

Appreciated! Others have already been active in the planning for the much needed working bees. Will let everyone know once details are available...

@dalai replied 3 months ago.

More done at Camel's Saturday.

Had planned to install more maillons and welded rings than updated, but was sent a private message that a couple of hangers were loose on Undertow at the Back wall so fixed this first.

Omega block

Wee Ripper - added maillons and welded rings extended with chain as the anchor was set back. Evil Brew - removed the 6mm twisted shackles I transferred from Boogie a couple of weeks ago replacing with maillons and welded rings. Left Hand of Satan - removed the 6mm twisted shackles replacing with maillons and welded rings. Between Good and Evil / Satanic Verses direct - added maillons and welded rings. Anchor had no replaceable wear points previously.

Finished well after dark, only leaving the car park at 9:10pm!

Tom Keeble replied 3 months ago.

Thanks Martin! Very much appreciate the work you do up there.

Mark Rewi replied 3 months ago.

You’re a machine!

Anthony Cuskelly replied 3 months ago.

Following routes now have new replaceable wear points on anchors: - Morty - Guilty By Association - Cruel Stain - Broomstick (2x pairs of mallions, rings to be added once my order comes in).

I believe there's still at least 2 on Chain block, 2 on Warfront, and Grey Arete still to do.

Massive thanks to Climbing Anchors for providing the gear I put on yesterday for free!

@dalai replied 3 months ago.

Brilliant! Great job Anthony Cuskelly and awesome news about Climbing Anchors donating to the cause.

With the remaining 3 sets of welded rings and maillons I have plus 6mm twisted shackles swapped out from the Omega block, unless I have missed any there are just 3 anchors still needing updating across the hill!

Thanks to everyone who has donated and supported this #CCC initiative!

@dalai replied 13 weeks ago.

Last of the anchors on the hump updated today thanks to Aaron's donation received this week.

I believe all anchors at Camel's have now been updated with replaceable wear points, either twisted shackles or maillons and welded rings. If you come across any that don't please let us know.

Warfront wall

-Warfront and Young Warriors now fitted with maillons and welded rings. These had no replaceable fixings prior. -Thundering Guns/Heat Seeker anchor had twisted shackles. These were replaced with maillons and welded rings.

Chain Buttress

-Tough Love plus Dominance and Submission maillons and welded rings fitted. -Limited Pain twisted shackles from Thundering Guns/ Heat Seeker added to this routes anchor. None of these routes previously had replaceable wear points.

Finally anchor at the top of Grey Arete had maillons and welded rings added. These previously didn't have replaceable wear points and were showing wear.

@dalai replied 13 weeks ago.

Next stage will be to stabilise the base of the Back wall and Warfront wall amongst other work.

This must only be done in conjunction with PV as done at the Omega block back in the 90's.

Preliminary discussions have begun - volunteers will be required when the working bees are organised. We will post details and dates when they come to hand.

Mark Rewi replied 13 weeks ago.

Great work Martin!

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