Discussion: Offwidth Partner and info wanted for Monarch at Buffalo Rock

  • Started: 5 months ago on Wed 19th Feb 2020

Public discussion This is a public discussion in Mount Buffalo.

Eben Myrddin Muse started this discussion 5 months ago.

Offwidth Partner and info wanted for Monarch at Buffalo Rock

Hello everybody. New user here, and soon-to-be fresh Welsh import to Australia.

I'm recovering from a finger injury, and have been looking for cracks that get me psyched, and the very best I have found is Monarch at Mount Buffalo. It should be within the grades I climb, and I plan on bringing along the requisite big gear to give it a good go.

What I don't have is information on the crag beyond this website, transport, and (potentially, depending on what I can fit inside the bag) an 80m rope (the route is 75m). Are there any australian offwidth/crack climbers, particularly based in Melbourne who'd be keen for a go at it with me some weekend in March or April?

The photos taken by Simon Carter of it are exquisite!

Even if you're not a crack aficionado, my finger is firmly on the road to recovery, so I would love to form some trad partnerships while I'm able to make it out.

Markus Spiteri replied 5 months ago.

Hey Eben, I'll be up at Buffalo on the weekend of the 7th & 8th of March. I live in Melbourne and travel to Bright and Mt. Buffalo whenever I get the chance.

So, its about a 4 hour drive up to Buffalo from Melbourne, there is a campsite there but you need to book. Alternatively there is accommodation at Bright & Porepunkah which are approx. 45 mins away.

Buffalo is separated by many different areas but where Monarch is 'Burstons Crevass' is easily accessed from the car park and getting enough gear to the start of the climb won't be an issue.

Monarch is one of many I'd be happy to get on and can suggest plenty of others to have a crack at too...!


Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

I've had a look at the camping situation, it seems pretty steep! I'd love to give Monarch a go with you (potentially that weekend, or another) if you're interested! Suggestions very welcome! Do you have much big gear? I'll be bringing some but 75m seems a long way to be bumping one or two cams.

Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

I'll be staying in Clayton, by the way, do you think it'd be possible to share a ride maybe?

Markus Spiteri replied 5 months ago.

So I'll be driving to Bright on the Friday with my wife and kids so won't be able to offer a lift unfortunately but there is a train/bus available from Melbourne to Bright, or i know a couple of other people that are thinking of coming that weekend too. I just have to see what they're doing.

As for the gear. I have double cams from 0.2 - 4 and a single #5. Happy to invest in a couple more big cams to add to the rack. Also, Monarch is written up as a multi pitch so it might be better to do it that way??..

On that south side of the gorge there are heaps of climbs that I'd love to do so there's no shortage. Do you have the guide book?

Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

Totally fair, happy to make a bit more of an effort.

Ah, multi pitch, that's a relief.. No I do not, but I love a good guidebook, so happy to invest. Is there a best recommended one for the area? Done some cursory research but nothing concrete.

Cool! I have a few 5s and 6s and one Merlin #8 but can realistically only bring one of each (and the Merlin nearly undoubtedly won't fit at all). I'll bring doubles of 0.1-3 I think!

Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

What other routes have you got on your mind?

Markus Spiteri replied 5 months ago.

This is the only decent guide book for Buffalo. It's pretty good but the photos are a little average

Yeah I can bring heaps of stuff so I might look at getting a couple of bigger cams.

Some great routes nearby: Caligula, Where Angels Fear To Tread, Beowolf, Banana Blasé.

There's some classics I wanted to tick off at the Cathedral area too next time. Maharajah and Sultan...!

Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

Thanks, I will try and get a copy when I get there. The climbing season there ends around the end of April, right?

All of those routes look incredible! I'd be more than up for ticking them off, they don't seem too bad for the most part! Though I'm yet to fully grasp your grading system..

Markus Spiteri replied 5 months ago.

Yeah generally speaking not a lot of climbing through winter as it is an alpine area.

Well monarch I think would be the most difficult of that bunch for sure!

Eben Myrddin Muse replied 5 months ago.

It's a good objective I think! Got my accommodation booked for Burwood now! Do you think I could wrangle a lift up there from someone next weekend? Think I'm going to pack singles of my 4, 5 and 6 camalots and doubles of most of the sizes below that!

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