Discussion: A crucial jug has broken off

  • Started: 7 weeks ago on Thu 9th Apr 2020

Public discussion This is a public discussion for 7a+ Yellow Cake.

Alex B logged a warning 7 weeks ago. Active

Rock A crucial jug has broken off

A jug between bolts 4 and 5 has broken off beginning of April 2020, now this section is much harder than the rest of the route, including 7b extension. Probably still climbable but at a higher grade, at least 7c.

replied 5 weeks ago.

FML!! This was my pre COVID19 Project.

Serkan Peon replied 5 weeks ago.

So I climbed this today. Not in one continuous redpoint as it was the last thing I did today and didn't have the energy anymore. But I did all the moves of both the crux and the rest indiviually.

I originally redpointed Yellow Cake in 2017 (I think) and repeated it various times in 2018. I always considered it more of a 7a then 7a+. However I realised today that it has gotten a bit harder as it is more polished now.

Anyway the crux only got marignally harder in my opinion. Certainly not 7c. I used a gaston right hand and a high left foot on the lip of the broken hold (which still is a good hold, just lower). Results may vary depending on your flexibility.

I won't suggest a grade until I actually redpointed it, but it certainly did not move up 4 half-grades. So keep projecting

Alex B replied 24 days ago.

Hi Serkan. Thanks for the update, the assessment is helpful! I've spent close to an hour trying different options to do the crux without that jug and got nowhere near doing the move, to me it basically felt impossible. Since I can't do it, obviously I can't tell how hard it really is, 7c was just a guess - not sure how easy it would be to judge even after you do it, as it's a very short boulder, and probably also depends on how tall and/or flexible you are. I'm quite interested to see what consensus grade might emerge for the new version.

FWIW I also found a variation that goes a couple of meters right of the crux and merges back two bolts later - red-pointed it yesterday, that was certainly much easier then the new crux and wouldn't add to the grade, so would still be 7a/+ for the first pitch, and 7b for the extension.

Serkan Peon replied 21 days ago.

So just a quick follow up. I finally got around to redpoint this today. I would consider it solid 7a+ now, but not more. Furthermore I was there with 2 friends who both had 2 different sequences to do it: You can also go high hook with left foot, while leaving hands on lower lip (that one was a bit more unstable for me), or you can go left foot high on a blackish ledge and lock-off/press up on the broken hold into the next one. Either way: keep at it, it's still a great route.

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