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Discussion: Name and downgrade?

  • Started: 4 weeks ago on Thu 30th Apr 2020

Public discussion This is a public discussion for V6 You Can't Change History.

Phillip Booth started this discussion 4 weeks ago.

Name and downgrade?

Does anyone object to 'Unnamed V6' being given a name?

I was just going to call it "Have a Cigar" since the route next door is Wish You Were Here and Pink Floyd are pretty good. I think it;s a shame it doesn't have a name since it's a fun route and worth doing.

Also think it should only be V5.

Jason Smith replied 4 weeks ago.

Waiting for some idiot to say - YOU CAN'T CHANGE HISTORY!!

Jack Folkes replied 4 weeks ago.

I vote it get named "You can't change history."

Phillip Booth replied 4 weeks ago.

Haha. I like it. I'll wait a bit longer in case anyone else wants to comment.

replied 4 weeks ago.

Glad I ticked it when it was still V7! But yes I don’t protest the downgrade either. My suggestion with the name would be Brain Damage. Another pink Floyd song - i conked my head against the bulge taking a fall on the first crux during an early attempt!

replied 4 weeks ago.

But V6 seems a fair compromise grade wise

Phillip Booth replied 4 weeks ago.

Hey James, thanks for the input

The question shouldn't be about compromising what grade to give it because it was over-graded to begin with but rather how does it compare to other climbs of the same grade?

I've done loads of harder V5s in Sydney. From my discussions with others outside of this forum they agree also.

Everyone I've talked to has said Jannali in it's entirety is super soft. Wish You Were Here is soft for V5 (and was originally given V6), Triple Bypass super soft, Jannali Dyno soft, etc).

By getting the grade 'more correct' (always a subjective endeavour) it opens up the opportunity for others to see these climbs and consider them worth a trip (e.g. if V5 is their perceived max they can see there are a bunch of routes they can do, or if they want to do something harder they know to look elsewhere for a challenge and won't be disappointed).

With that in mind how did it compare for you to other well established V5s?

Luke Weatherstone replied 4 weeks ago.

Joe Hodgson and Paul Westwood did heaps of stuff without names, I can ask them if they want to name stuff. Just an idea.

Luke Weatherstone replied 4 weeks ago.

I agree grades come and go...

replied 4 weeks ago.

Hi Philip - I agree, with the caveat that every area has its own style. Most of my harder bouldering has been at Jannali so I don't really have much of a comparison (I'm a sport climber!). I feel as though (some of) the V4s compare well to other V4s I've tried around the area but couldn't comment on V5+. What I can say is that the Unnamed V6/V7 feels a good grade harder than WYWH. I also think there are a lot of sandbags out there!

Phillip Booth replied 4 weeks ago.

Hey Luke, yeah feel free to ask them if they want to name it / care if it has a name etc etc If they want it left as is as the developers happy to do so. I don't have contact with them otherwise I could have asked directly.

Hey James, for sure. I agree that some of the 4s feel right and that areas can tend to be stiff or soft as a whole. I'm predominately a sport climber too which is why I'm sensitive to this grade range haha. Reason I broached the topic for Jannali is that it appears to be 2 grades off in lots of cases with agreement among lots of people that have climbed them.

Anyway, I'll let consensus decide which at the moment will be to leave it at 6 unless anyone else speaks up confirming 5.

replied 4 weeks ago.

Jack Folkes - good suggestion!

Phillip Booth replied 14 days ago.

Okay. I'm changing the name. If anyone strongly objects you can change it back (I won't change it again)

replied 13 days ago.

...to what?

Phillip Booth replied 13 days ago.

Jack's suggestion: 'You Can't Change History'.

At least now it has a story behind it. ;-)

replied 13 days ago.

Love it!

replied 11 days ago.

Thumbs up to that!

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