This is a public discussion in Germany.
Trad-cimbing Germany - hey guys, I'm looking for Trad-routes in southern Germany. I tired to find a climbing guide but was not successfull.
Any recommendations or tipps where to go?
I'll go for a climbing trip starting end of June for two weeks.
Thx a lot
Hi Kurt! I'm not sure there are any major pure trad climbing areas in southern Germany at all (please tell me if you find one!). However, the Battertfelsen are an area which is more trad oriented, but with a few bolts. Of course, you can also find some trad lines in most of the sport climbing areas, like the Frankenjura. The other possibility would be to go alpine. Many alpine climbs require the use of mobile protection.
Hi Kurt, you might want to try to use a search like this and narrow it down for the areas you wish to go to: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/routes/with-gear-style/trad/?sortby=at,desc
for sure this is a place to consider:
even if most of the routes are (partly) bolted there are many greenpoint and some pure trad line gems around.
Ettringen would probably be the best answer, yes, but I hadn't considered it as being in southern Germany.
Kentheim has a few routes in form of cracks which can be climbed trad, just ignore the bolts: https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/schwarzwald/route/1168322229 but Battert is actually a very good recommendation!
What about Saxony? This is the most traditional climbing area in the world. It is the place where rock climbing "for the sake of itself" was invented. Yes, there are stable rings, but really few. And the only allowed pro ist webbings and knots, (mostly for technical reasons).
Christoph Rauch : If it is closer to Oberstdorf than to Flensburg, it's Southern Germany.
Lamπ[tm] Again, for sure, I would highly recommend the Elbe sandstones. But since the climbing there is from another world altogether (in a positive way, but only if you're up to it mentally, and if you're willing to ditch all your usual trad gear and invest some time to learn to place knotted slings; OR if you have a competent leader with you), and my definition of southern Germany (Weißwurstäquator!) differs a bit from yours …
Hey guys, thx for the infos. I'll have a look and try some of the suggesions.
Orgelfels, Eulenfels, and Brettfels in the Murgtal, Black Forest, offer trad in good granite. https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/germany/schwarzwald/area/297268686
Pfalz: Rarely 100% clean climbing, but definitely Trad ethics and character. Beautiful red sandstone nice forest landscape.
So we decided to go to Berchdesgarden and Wilder Kaiser in Austria. It's only a few routes pure Trad, bute Alpine multi-pitch is also very nice. Thx for all the tipps guys!
Nice! Good to hear that you found something that you liked.
Looking for "Der Ungeheuer sei" in Frankenjura.
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