Discussion: Faulty fixed biner

  • Started: 4 weeks ago on Wed 1st Jul 2020

Public discussion This is a public discussion for 18 Wounded Knee.

Jake Forker logged a warning 4 weeks ago. Active

Fixed Gear Faulty fixed biner

Do not use the perma-biner up the top, it needs to be replaced. The gate jams and doesn't lock anymore.

replied 4 weeks ago.

Does the gate still close correctly? You don't really need the gate to lock if you're only lowering off.

Most of the routes at Upper Slider use a single non-locking carabiner.

potato replied 4 weeks ago.

It will close but it doesn't reliably stay closed - the spring in the gate has popped out, and the locking sleeve is jammed open

David Jefferson replied 4 weeks ago.

Why not do some community service and donate one of your own biners to make the anchor safe? I have often done this when encountering anchors that have substandard hardware.

Jake Forker replied 4 weeks ago.

I’m heading to KP tomorrow morning and I’ll chuck one of my steelies on, I only had alloys on me last night when I found it

replied 4 weeks ago.

Replacement isn't going to be too easy by the look of it. You may need to take some bolt cutters to remove the captive pin.

It might be better reporting it using the KP bad bolts website:

Josiah Hess replied 4 weeks ago.

If you want to replace this then it's best to get rid of the old biner. Last time I had climbed this somebody had left another biner on there but it was sitting in a really bad position and made it hard to clip through either of the biners. I took it off and just lowered off the fixed one. May be worth changing the warning to just say "Perma-biner at the top doesn't lock". It's really up to one's own personal judgement whether they want to use it or not; and if they don't, they can just thread the rope through the chain and abseil (until someone either removes or replaces it).

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