Routes as trad in Africa

Start 5m right of 'Restoration'- small tree at start.

1. [17] 20m

   A2 Climb the steep broken rock above a small tree to below small recessed corner with a sloping overhang. Climb out diagonally left (A2). Continue up the face and exit onto a ledge.

2. [13] 18m

   Continue up a crack in a face above to easier ground.

3m right of the grey slab of 'One-eyed Jack' is a buttress.

1. 35m 13 Climb up a break 2m left of the edge of the buttress (at approximately 8m is the crux.) Straddle up and move diagonally right crossing a shallow recess. Continue across sloping rock. Move up and left around a corner to a recess then up easy ground to top.

Note: Sparsely protected.

Starts on right-hand side of a grey slab in a recess, right of 'One-eyed Jack'.

1. 15m 10 Climb right-hand side of grey slab to ledge. Belay in corner as for ONE-EYED JACK

2. 20m 11 Traverse right across a face to a recess and a crack system (two small trees). Climb the right-hand crack and face to the top.

Start in the centre of the grey slab mentioned in 'Rudolph'.

1. 18m 10 Climb the centre of the grey slab, moving diagonally right to a ledge belay in right-hand corner.

2. 25m 15 Continue up the crack in the corner to top and easy rock.

Start 15m right of 'Opuntia' on a grey slab.

1. 23m 13 Climb the left-hand side of the slab to a ledge. Move left and climb up to the base of a short crack in a corner with a tree at the top.

2. 20m 13 Continue up the crack passing the tree and on to a system of cracks above. Continue to easy ground.

Situated 35m to the right of the meeting place (at descent gully).

1. 25m 15 Start at the base of the first buttress. The first 3m is the crux. Move up onto the face and semi-mantelshelf moving to the right. Continue diagonally left and up the arete. Climb moving right and then up to a good ledge and tree. (An alternative start can be made by climbing a recess to left and slightly higher - 10)

2. 20m 10 Traverse left for 4m and up to a recess with a tree projecting out. Continue up the recess to the top.

Start climb at high point 30m left of meeting place at an obvious black chimney with prominent small tree 10m up.

1. [11] 35m

   Ascend 10m to tree, then climb over bulge. Traverse left for 6m then move straight small corner to stance.

2. [9] 30m

   Climb up vertical wall above on good holds.

This climb ascends a recess / crack to the right of 'Penny's Error'.

1. 15m 13 Climb the recess to a ledge.

2. 15m 11 Climb non-de script rock to top of crag.

Goes up prominent corner recess to left of a cave 30m east of 'Cave Crag'. Follows recess to two-thirds of height, crosses to face on right then straight upward.

The start of this climb may be located by reference to three caves near the base of the rook and spaced about 30m apart. The route commences about 9m to the left of the most westerly of these three caves, in a small recess, and is marked by a beacon at ground level. The starting point is actually on a broad grass ledge which is reached by clambering over a rocky slope at the bottom of the krantz. Between the starting point and the cave on the right there is a natural feature on the rock having the appearance of an inverted broad arrow chiselled into the rock. This is greenish-yellow in colour.

1. 18m 9 From the beacon work up in the recess towards the left then traverse right over the top of the recess, thence upwards to the right towards the crack immediately above the cave. This crack is covered with aloes and a stance on a small ledge is found on the edge of these aloes almost in the crack.

2. 18m 11 From the stance in the crack step to left thence vertically upwards over good sound rock to a large sloping ledge.

3. 18m 8 This section is obvious and a number of easy alternatives present themselves. The most vertical is the best.

4. 25m 8 Work up to the final rock slope on the right or left of an overhanging rock immediately above the 'cave crack'.

Note: The rock is sound and holds good. The first stance can accommodate two people only with comfort. Top section is disappointing after the first two pitches.

Starts about 9m to left of 'Cave Crag' and just on right of a small ridge below slightly overhanging rocks.

1. 34m 13 Move 5m up on very firm, smooth rock to a slight overhang. Traverse a short but difficult section 2 ½ m to the right to avoid the overhang then up 2m. Traverse to the left to a point immediately above the start of the climb then straight up for about 15m to an impassable zone of smooth rock. At this point traverse right for 5m to a clearly visible stance made by a boulder (slightly loose) sticking out of the main body of the krantz. A better and wider stance is found 3m further up.

2. 30m 9 From upper stance traverse a few meters left to a rock ridge which is followed to summit.

Start about 10m left of 'Carmen Crag' and about 3m to the right of a prominent recess.

1. 25m 15 Climb face and move through overhanging bulge to face above. Climb diagonally right, surmount the next overhang and then continue to stance on ledge below a prominent slab face.

2. 25m 11 Climb the slab face and then continue to the top along the pleasant arete that extends from the top of the face.

Starts in bush-covered scree opposite a 'Cabbage Tree' on the slope and about 20m to 30m to left of 'Carmen Crag'. Start at a flake of rock below a sloping face to left of a crack.

1. 22m 9 Move up 6m on left of crack, traverse right over top of crack to point above aloe. Traverse further right (4 – 6m) round a corner and up a few meters to a stance on a ledge which can hold four people.

2. 15m 11 Straight up recess to a large grassy ledge. Immediately above this ledge on right is a sheer smooth face.

3. 22m 13 Straight up to left of smooth face to a point below an overhanging block. Traverse right below the overhang then step down and across to right in a delicate movement leading to easier rock, round the overhang and back to left to stance above overhang.

4. 22m 7 Straight up to summit ridge.

Variation: 3 22m 8 Step down from grass ledge and traverse to right to edge of smooth face then up on right of smooth face to easier rock joining up with first route to right of overhang.

Commences some 5m left of the start of 'Hammer Route' at base of sloping slabs.

1. 20m 13 Climb easily up slabs to corner crack where wall steepens. Semi-layback up crack past aloe to belay on large dirty ledge.

2. 25m 13 Climb up in corner to overhang, then diagonally right following overhang. Traverse right 3m then up steep wall to small ledge. Cross aloes on right and climb easily to ledge. Chock belay low in horizontal crack.

3. 35m 9 Ascend easily up small arete then more easily still to top of krantz.

This route commences in a cleft directly below the right hand edge of the overhang forming the frame. It is easily identified by the hanging boulder, a feature about half way up the krantz in the form of a prominent projecting boulder, apparently in a delicately balanced position. The usual route goes to the right of the boulder then straight up to the summit. A number of alternatives are possible.

Note: Care is needed to avoid loose rock just below the boulder and for this reason it is not recommended as a route for novices.

This rock problem breaks through the prominent roof of 'Frame Route'.

1. 40m 8 Climb clean broken rock to obvious break in roof.

2. 10m 19 Climb awkwardly up left into flared open book below second overhang. Move up to overhang then traverse delicately right until roof ends and climb up right to ledge.

Start on the sloping wall about 5m to the left of 'Hanging Boulder'.

1. 25m 10 Ascend bearing slightly right, parallel with a groove, to a small ledge that is actually the top of a large flake in the ridge overlooking the HANGING BOULDER gully (small stance).

2. 15m 11 From the top of the flake ascend vertically keeping slightly to the left to a large ledge.

3. 12m 8 Ascend vertically to the big ledge with boulder and thus immediately beneath the overhang that forms the top of the 'frame'.

4. 12m 8 Descend 6m to a ledge and traverse to the right along a narrow extension of this into the top right-hand corner of the frame. Traverse along a ledge around the corner and up to the final stance.

Follows the ridge on the left-hand side of the 'Frame Route', i.e. up the left edge below the overhang from which the FRAME derives its name. The climb has four pitches all of which are grade 8 except for the beginning of the third which is grade 9.

Start midway between 'Drei Stein Mandrel' and 'Sunny Ridge'.

1. 25m 11 Climb up to small tree on easy sloping rock keeping in a crack. Traverse diagonally right underneath a huge roof. Belay in corner.

2. 25m 17, A1 Traverse left onto exposed nose on good foot- and hand-holds. Climb straight up to reach the left-hand side of the roof described above. Place piton in horizontal crack. Climb up 2m and traverse 2m diagonally right up face (artificial) into recess. Climb easily straight up for 15m to belay.

3. 25m 8 Scramble to the top.

An easy route up the buttress on the left of a prominent cleft in the krantz some 45m west of 'Frame Route'.

The start is easily located by reference to a prominent crack leading up to overhanging rocks, which are split and appear to be blocked by aloes. The climb follows the crack in two 9 pitches to a point just below the overhanging rock on the right, then traverses outward, and down to a point about 10m to the right of the crack. From here the route goes vertically upwards.

An alternative route opened by T. Louw and W. Curle goes straight up the crack through the split overhang. (10)

Not a particularly inviting climb but longer than others in the area. Numerous belays. Starts 5 - 10m left of 'Zig Zag'.

1. 15m 9 Choose a route up the buttress to a large rock split off the corner.

2. 22m 10 Diagonally up to the right inside the frame to a recess above some aloes 12m, then 9m up.

3. 12m 11 Traverse left onto the nose and up to a large tree which marks the junction of to route with RACK ROUTE.

4. 22m 9 Up the chimney for 3m onto a chockstone. Traverse right onto the face or into next gully. Climb 12m up until a small overhang is reached. A scramble takes one off the climb.

May commence at the same point as 'Prometheus' but a point 10m up a slope to the left marks the usual start.

1. 15m 9 Up in the recess on left of sloping face.

2. 12m 10 Traverse right to a point directly above the start of 'Prometheus'.

3. 25m 10 Up 9m and traverse left to edge of crack then vertically up to large tree which is point of junction with 'Prometheus'.

4. 22m 9 Work over to left below overhang then up to easier rock to summit.

Start on the rib 2m left of the start of 'Rack Route', 4m to right of a prominent right-angled corner.

1. 15m 9 Climb the rib to a projecting narrow block to the right of the rib.

2. 15m 13 Climb above the block for 2m then move back onto the rib. Continue up on sparse small holds (crux) for 10m, until the angle eases on passing a group of aloes. Belay at a small tree 5m below a split overhang with a light brown stripe on its underside.

3. 30m 8 Climb the gully to the left of the overhang and on up grassy rock to the top.

At the top of the face is a large overhang with a white patch on the lip. On the left edge of the face below this overhang is a shallow recess or corner. This is the start of 'Rack Route'. 5m left is a grassy gully, sloping up left and ending 10m up at the base of an obtuse-angled corner. There is a sloping smooth slab on the right.

1. 15m 11 Traverse left 3m onto the slab which is stepped out on the left. Ascend a steep lichen covered recess for 15m to a stance on a small platform.

2. 15m 13 Diagonally right and up about 10m to grassy area. The crux is the first 5m. The stance is on a big ledge.

3. 15m 8 Up crack or gully above and slightly to the left.

Start up the face immediately to the right of the prominent cleft of 'Other Kingdom'.

1. 18m 17 Climb up easy rock for 5m to where the face steepens. Move diagonally up leftward 3m, and then ascend steep face above (common with 'Other Kingdom') to a small ledge.

2. 40m 10 Climb 8m up sloping wall to large ledge, then traverse 6m up to right of gully past aloes. Climb 3m up slightly overhanging chimney to right of aloes, and traverse 9m round to left. Scramble up 6m to grassy ledge and walk 8m to small tree belay on right.

3. 28m 9 Scramble 15m up steep grassy gully and ascend 13m steep slab to summit.

The route starts to the right of 'Tweedledum' in a prominent but shallow cleft about 3m wide in the rock distinguished by a black streak running up its inside.

1. 12m 13 Vertically up the cleft below a slight overhang then at 4m up traverse left 3m. Work straight up the ridge for a further 5m to a ledge 60cm wide. Traverse right 5m to ledge. (This ledge is 6m to the right of the start of the climb.)

2. 9m 10 Straight up, to the left of a clump of aloes vertically above and to the right of a larger clump of aloes (5m x 2m). About 8m up is a small sloping ledge just above the larger clump of aloes, and 1 ½ m further up to the right is a flat-topped projecting rock providing the second stance.

3. 12m 8 Traverse right beneath an overhanging rock, then proceed up a ridge slightly inclined to the right and facing the ridge immediately above the overhang. The next belay position is on a sloping ledge immediately below a jagged series of overhangs interspersed with aloes.

4. 30m 8 Scramble through grass-tufted ledges.

Starts a few meters to left of 'Other Kingdom' on the ridge instead of recess and overlaps part of the first pitch of that climb. The route goes straight up from that point passing to the left of the large clump of aloes referred to in the second pitch of 'Other Kingdom'. The first two pitches are of 10 standard and face climbing is the main feature.

A route parallel to 'Tweedledum' starting about 6m to the left thereof.

1. 12m 13 Starting at beacon 9m to right of smooth hopeless looking groove up, proceed straight up to small ledge.

2. 18m 10 Straight up to a further ledge approached from the right. This ledge has ample room for three to four people.

3. 15m 9 Leads to a large platform which also marks the finish of the parallel climb 'Tweedledum'.

To the left of 'Tweedledee' is a prominent slanting corner capped by a large overhang on 'Sinister' (see the photograph). To the right of this corner are three grooves, the first two leading to a slab and the third one continues up the face. Start directly below the third groove.

1. 18m 19 Gain the base of the groove with a difficult move and up it for 2½ m (poor peg runner). Make difficult lay-away moves up rightwards to the right arete, where good holds lead up to a small stance and good nut belay below a small overhang.

2. 9m 15 Descend 1½ m and traverse left into the groove then across the left wall to a large block stance and peg belay.

3. 28m 15 Gain the shallow groove directly above the stance and from the bulge (9m) move diagonally up right towards the top of the original groove. Move as high as possible then step down across the groove and continue up the groove to a move right below a nose. Up the recess on the right to a peg belay on top of the nose. A very enjoyable pitch.

4. 30m 8 Scramble to the top.

Start directly below the second groove to the right of the slanting corner. (Refer to description for 'Goon Show')

1. 17m 17 Move up 3m then diagonally right into a shallow groove in the right wall. Ascend this, past a bulge then traverse right to a large block stance and peg belay. (As for Pitch 2 stance on 'Goon Show')

2. 44m 13 Ascend up left wards to where the slab steepens (narrow ledge at 15m) then across right onto the blunt arete (directly above the stance). Continue directly up and follow a rock rib above to chock belay below a small overhang. Scramble off rightwards.

Note: Protection is poor.

Start below the first square overhang in the prominent slanting corner (Refer to description for 'Goon Show')

1. 22m 13 Ascend to the overhang, step right and follow the slanting corner crack up rightwards to a peg belay below a small triangular overhang.

2. 15m 15 Layback up left wards 1½ m then step across onto slab. Alternatively, traverse at level of the stance and move up some way across the slab (5m 15) Move left to the edge of the slab. Then step down onto a flake or block on the corner. Traverse across recess. Ascend the left wall, working up to the left to a block stance and peg belay. (3m 15)

3. 15m 6 Up grassy face.

Left of 'Sinister' a route is picked out inclining to the right above and to left of reddish overhanging rock.

Start in main descent gully to the right of large cave seen 10m above.

1. 40m 11 Climb straight up the arete to the top (A difficult move at the start, a grade 15 bulging crack, can be avoided if desired - 11).

Situated 30m left of gully between 'Commando Neck' Buttress and 'Commando Neck' West. Start in large corner with large crack below tree about 10m up with much evidence of dassie occupation.

1. 40m 15 Climb up crack past tree (slightly overhanging) to easier sloping rock. Belay at tree on ledge.

2. 40m 4 Traverse right along ledge until a very small cave is reached situated on left side of gully.

3. 25m 15 From small cave climb straight up to ledge. Continue up, traverse left to a small tree then diagonally right along edge to top.

Start 40m down from the right-hand extremity of the 'Commando Neck' West Buttress, 6m left of a tree at the lowest point of the buttress.

1. 19m 17 Climb the wall into the open book above, and at the top move right out of the open book to a stance.

2. 8m 13 Move right traversing under overhangs along a handrail to a stance.

3. 29m 11 Climb the crack behind the stance, move out right at an overhang and continue straight up to a tree. Belay near the top.

Start at base of a crack in a recess 3m left of 'Wild Rover'.

1. 18m 13 Climb the crack to an overhang, step right to a tree and stance. (15 if you are short)

2. 28m 15 Climb straight up the undercut wall behind the stance and continue up easy rock. Scramble to top.

Situated 18m left of 'Stormy Weather'. Start left of a rock rib in a recess.

1. 35m 15 Climb the recess just left of a rock rib and right of a tree a little way up on the rock. Move up to the top of the recess and step over right. Move right for 2m. Continue up a wall to a ledge. Climb up the rock above (small overhang) to a short wall. Move slightly left and up and move right to a ledge. To the right there is sloping rock which ends in a wall and overhangs. To the left is a thin crack line running up a wall. Climb this to sloping rock. Move slightly left and then step right. Continue up to a rib of rock and a tree at the top. Belay.

2. 25m 8 Continue to the left up easy rock.

Note: The 1st pitch is on excellent rock.

Situated 25m right of 'Ace Of Diamonds'. Start on large ledge 10m up, or traverse from left-hand side underneath obvious recess.

1. 30m 15 Climb up recess to point below overhang, then left through opening in overhang, passing a broken piton, to next overhang, taking care (loose block). Traverse left up to belay above aloes.

2. 40m 11 Traverse left 2m and climb up to ledge above belay. Continue straight up until easier ground is reached.

The climb is situated 3m right of 'Jack O' Spades'.

1. 25m 17 Climb the crack system to a small tree. Continue up above the tree. Just left is a small block which appears to be stuck on the face above together with a loose jutting plate of rock (which has a strange metallic sound). Move up and try standing on the block which appears to be stuck on. Move slightly left and up 1 ½ m and traverse right across a very exposed face to an edge. Cross over a shallow recess to a ledge.

2. 40m 13 Move slightly right from the belay. Climb up and diagonally left up a face to the left of a recess with aloes and grass. Move up virtually in a straight line following the clear rock, keeping right of a tree, to the top of the krantz. Belay.

The climb takes the line of a great fault which splits the krantz virtually from top to bottom.

1. 20m 15 From the base of the fault climb up into a short chimney and straddle past the crux of this pitch to a cubby hole. Move out right, across and under a tree and up to a ledge. Belay. (This pitch is a 'technical' 15.)

2. 25m 17 Climb up an awkward corner and continue up, straddling the crack. A neat move partially using the left wall and the edge of the crack can be made to gain a small ledge below a shallow chimney. Bridge this until able to pull over left to a wall. Climb up using good holds to the top of a block. Belay

3. 15m 10 Continue up a shallow V-shaped recess above (instead of moving left into a bushy gully) to easy rock.

Note: A high quality climb on excellent rock.

About 50m to the right of 'Tower Of Pisa' there is a prominent ridge undercut by a large overhang. Start at the right-hand side of the ridge and to the right of 'Keg And Tankard'.

1. 15m 10 Move up and left under the overhang and continue up a groove to a stance level with the lip of the overhang.

2. 23m 15 Above the stance is a subsidiary rib to the left of the main ridge and separated from it by a groove. Continue up the rib until a small tree is reached in the groove. Make a blind move right across the wall to reach the main ridge. From here climb up the crest of the ridge for 6m to reach a stance and good belay.

3. 30m 8 Follow the ridge veering leftwards to the top.

Note: By only gaining the ridge at half height, the main challenge is avoided.

45m right of 'Tower Of Pisa' and 4-5m left of 'No Highway'.

1. 35m 11 Climb diagonally left from some large blocks to a defined recess. Continue up the recess for 25m to a small overhang, step over right and up to a ledge. Traverse right for 3-4m and up to next ledge below a wall.

2. 25m 11 Step up and traverse diagonally right across the wall to the edge and arete. Continue up the arete keeping left and aiming for some blocks on top.

Note: A very pleasant climb on good rock.

Situated 10m right of 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 30m 13 Climb up a broken ramp for 4m. Move diagonally right across a wall above some overhangs for 8m and straight up through a break in some small overhangs. Move over right to a rib, continue up and traverse left along a slanting ledge. Belay just before a small corner.

2. 30m 15 Climb the corner and crack above to a point below a big overhang. Step out right and continue up to a shallow recess to the top

Situated 4m right of 'Tower Of Pisa'.

1. 25m 17 Start in an obvious corner, move slightly left and back right from a big block (common to 'Tower Of Pisa') into the corner. Climb the left face. Step over right to a ledge below a small tree. Climb up and step left into a shallow corner with two cracks running up on the left face. Straddle up the corner to a narrow ledge approximately 10cm wide which runs left below a blackish face. Traverse left at this level for 4m to the edge.

2. 18m 9 Move around left onto a broken face and straight up keeping on the arete to the top.

From the descent gully follow the foot of the krantz until the first steep obvious ridge is reached. At this point the trees start to get more numerous.

1. 15m 11 On the right of the ridge is an obvious recess. Climb up the recess until it is possible to move out left to a detached block on the ridge. Move back a few meters to the right behind a large tree and climb straight up to a good ledge and belay.

2. 45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few meters until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.