The conical mass comprising the tower is split about two-third of the way up by a well-defined grassy ledge which divides the climb into two separate portions. Viewed from the East, the monotony of the horizontal slabs is seen to be broken by two vertical cracks - one towards the right on the lower section and one almost on the left ridge of the section. The route generally follows these cracks except for a deviation, onto the left-hand face near the top of the lower crack below the grass ledge.
21m (E2) Start on face to left of crack and proceed straight up over horizontal ledges.
12m (E1) A short chimney leads to a grass ledge below a chockstone.
15m (E2) Ascend chimney to a higher grass ledge. Proceed to the right of the main chimney over a face broken with horizontal cracks.
21m (E3) Dassie traverses to the left for about 3m, then proceed upwards to a stance immediately below a series of overhangs. A traverse to the right from this point to rejoin the main crack bypasses the overhangs and a further short ascent leads to a stance on top of some prominent blocks.
12m (F2) There is a delicate take-off to the left of a large flake. Further ascent in the main crack leads to a ledge below the final overhangs marking the last barrier to the grass ledge.
30m (F3) Traverse to the left in an extremele exposed position then delicately ascend a face to a point immediately below the main grass ledge and about 18m horizontally to the left of the main crack. A pull-up over a small overhang completes this section.
21m (E3) The route follows the left esction of the chimney straight up for about 18m where a step across is taken to the right and the ascent continues to the right of a narrow crack where a stance is availabl below an overhang.
12m (F3) A tricky take-off into the crack on the left which is then followed to a ledge above which two further cracks, about 3m apart, split a massive block. The one on the left is probably the easier of the two but is a hard pull-up.
14m (E3) Pass through the "worm hole" leading to a block which is traverse to the right. thence up a crack. A traverse to the left, ascent of three short recesses, a further short traverse back to the right and a climb to the top of a huge chockstone brings the climber to a point immediately above the last belay.
21m (E1) An easy traverse to the left extends to the outer ridge of the tower. Here the route proceeds up a crack about 5m in height lying back from the outer buttress and leads to a stance on a block from which the summit section is visible.
18m (E3) Traverse to the right to the final column of rock, where a pull-up leads to a ledge passing round to the right in a very exposed position from which the grass ledge is visible vertically beneath. This traverse lands the climber on a grass ledge below a crack from which an adequate belay can be given.
30m (D) The final pitch is virtually a scramble to the summit taking a route tending to the right.
1km east of the Zimbabwe climb one can see a ver prominent V-shaped rock formation, centered by a huge dome. Running up the right-hand flank of the “V” one can see a number of open book shaped cracks. Counting the very first small open book, the climb starts to the right at the bottom of the seventh, the last open book shaped crack. Viewed from close range, one can see a black streak running down the right-hand side of the open book.
20m (F2) 15m up open book and traverse 3m left and up to tree belay.
25m (F1) Start face to left of crack. Climb to good ledge under yellow overhangs (two mantleshelfs). Dassie crawl right along ledge for 4m. Ascend crack 3m. Ledge and piton belay.
40m (F2). Climb chimney and step out left to ledge. Ascend corner directly above and follow crack to just under grass ledge, make delicate right-hand traverse and up to tree belay.
35m (F1) Climb up centre of grey face to piton and flake belay under overhangs.
20m (F3 A2) Walk 8m to right and ascend short chimney to upper overhangs. Move through overhangs (A2) (one piton left in place). Follow crack to tree belay.
30m (E3) Walk right along ledge past yellow boulder to crack and ascend crack to ledge and belay.
25m (E3) Climb crack and chimney to neck.
25m (E3) Ascend centre of face 29m and scramble to top.
The route follows a line 130m right of Afternoon Ascension and 15m left of a huge boulder.
30m (F2+) Start at the base of a crack and corner and climb straight up the crack. Climb up as high as possible, then traverse to the left onto the face. Move up and traverse to the right to an obvious ledge.
24m (F3 A2) Climb diagonally upward, passing over a small overhang, for 20m until stopped by an overhanging rock. Traverse to the right underdeath (sic) this rock to a recess and an overhanging crack. Climb the crack (A2) to easier rock and a small stance. It may be advisable to divide this pitch into two to reduce rope-drag.
40m (F1) Traverse right, move up to ledge, then traverse left and climb through overhanging rock bearing slightly left, to a large ledge below a grey open book recess.
20m (F2) Climb the open book recess to a grass ledge, then traverse right to a tree belay.
40m (E2) Climb up through easy rock bands, bearing slightly left to reach the top. Walk off left along a large grass ledge.
The route goes up the prominent buttress unofficially called Frugal Kop, about halfway between the campsite and Hanglip. When leaving the campsite, take the road going to the left just before the first gate, walk through a little stream and carry on, passing another gate. The road peters out a the foot of the buttress. The fence bends to the left, heading straight up to a little buttress against the rock face. From this, the route goes straight up the prominent crack with overhangs going out to the right, then up a thinning crack and finally through large blocks at the top of the face.
20m (E2) Climb a recess just to the right of the little buttress, going left at the top.
15m (F3 A1) Climb past a tree into a crack to a handrail going out ot the right. Hand-traverse out to the right around the corner (3m). Use two aid moves (one piton) to get up the vertical crack to reach a large stance.
40m (F3) Climb a chimney up to an overhang. Follow the overhang out to the right by climbing immediately under it. At the end of the overhang, move up an open book to a ledge and continue diagonally to the left to a large ledge with trees.
30m (E3) Move around an awkward bulge by jamming in one knee for balance, to reach a tree on the right. Climb straight up a recess to a large ledge with rees.
30m (F1) Scramble up 5m to a large free-standing block, with a chockstone wedged between the block and the face (belay from here). Climb up between the block and the face, going slightly to the left up to overhangs, then up to the right to a ledge. Climb straight up to a prominent chockstone wedged in a crack. Work up behind the chockstone to a ledge with trees and continue slightly to the left to the top.
Free Variation:Climb up a recess 5m to the left of the fence.
20m (F2) Climb the recess to a ledge above.
15m (G1) Climb past a tree into a crack. Do a delicate move where the crack narrows then do a pull-up onto a ledge.
Continue up main route from this point.
The climb goes up a recessed crack with a prominent hanging bush halfway up on the first buttress to the right of Hanglip. The climb starts to the left of Born Free and directly beneath the hanging bush. (Beacon).
20m (D) Scramble up a recess to a ledge above.
20m (F2) To the right-hand side of a little white streaked amphitheater are a few boulders with a tree growing out horizontally. From the top of the boulders climb a recess to a small stance below a tree.
15m (F3 A2) Climb up and through the tree then continue up alternatively using aid. Enter a cubby-hole and move past a tree to a stance.
30m (F2) Chimney up to a loose flake then traverse right 3m onto an exposed face. Climb a crack in the face and continue diagonally right to the bottom of the chimney with the hanging bush.
12m (F3 A1) Ascend the chimney then using aid in the final 3m make a hanging belay below a little overhang in the roof.
20m (F3 A3) Semi hand-traverse left 3m then straddle up to a footrail. Move back to below the roof and up to where a good wedge can be placed in a vertical crack. Aid out on the roof and continue with
difficulty up to a stance at the start of a recessed chimney.
40m (F1) Continue up the chimney to a stance on top of a chockstone.
40m (F1) Climb past a chockstone at the back then out of the cave. Ascend a few boulders and climb past or over a bush into the continuation of the chimney. Climb up the left side then traverse out on a ledge beneath a narrow crack. Climb out at the end and continue to the top.
The route follows the big open book on the right-hand side of the rock band
leading up to the prominent overhang.
25m (D/E) Scramble to foot of main face.
45m (F2) Climb first crack to right of centre wall to top of loose pillar.
15m (F2 A1) Clim up 2m in corner to small tree. Traverse right, move up one
move (A1) and left again (A1). Continue diagonally for 2 moves (A1). Swing left
into wide jamming crack and ascend same to stance.
15m (F3) Climb open book to ledge in corner.
23m (F2 A2) Continue up open book to overhanging crack. Mixed A2 and free
climbing leads to piton and chock belay below overhangs.
25m (F1+) Climb up to small ledge and traverse about 4m right. Mantleshelf to fairly wide ledge below hanging rock on face. At same level traverse right to
below loose rock pillar on right edge of overhangs above. Climb past rock pillar
to narrow ledge and stance.
30m (F2 A1) Climb up diagonally left to ledge. Use one aid move to ascend
into right recess. Climb recess and use another aid move to gain ledge above.
Traverse left around corner to tree and continue to top.
The climb is situated on the buttress to the right of Black Sunday (3rd rock
band). It starts about 100m to the right of the gully. Take off from a grey
block underneath an overhanging recess (beaconed). The upper line has a big grey
face on its right.
25m (F3) Straddle crack into narrow awkard cubby-hole. Ascend cubby-hole
(crux) to foot of chimney and belay.
30m (E3) Ascend chimney to ledge. Walk diagonally left to foot of pillar.
25m (F1) Ascend right-hand side of pillar to large cubby-hole just 3m below
top of pillar.
20m (E3) Ascend sloping face to tree below crack.
35m (F3) Climb crack to overhang. Chimney up out of roof and climb to stance
15m (F2) Climb crack to tree belay.
Traverse 30m left to below series of black rounded ledges.
35m (F1) Ascend ledges (yellowwood tree 5m up) and scramble to top.
R. Druschke, E. Druschke (October 1977)
Variation: Begin about 40m to the left of the original start.
40m (F3 A0) Climb chimney, crux after 10m (sling aid). Continue through hole
at top. Belay next to overhanging rock.
45m (E3) Follow line to top of pillar and continue along ramp to tree belay.
The climb is situated on the tower to the left of Tarantula basically following
a prominent crack to the right of Skydiver, which takes the centre line.
12m (F1) Start at beacon. Climb wall of lowest rock band.
15m (F2+) Climb the left edge of the recess with some creepers hanging down
for approximately 4m. Move right into open book and climb up past some hanging
creepers onto ledge, continue up crack to small ledge with tree and natural eye
15m (F2+) Continue up open book, surmount overhang and up to ledge.
35m (F2) Climb the lay-back type crack to the right of the main crack to tree
and continue up main crack to stance.
25m (F3) Ascend crack to just below main overhang. Move directly out and then
onto left wall. Stance around corner.
20m (E3) Continue up face and cracks to shoulder of pinnacle.
20m (F1) Climb short face next to right corner (pull-up) and up to top.
The climb starts at the large V on the left half of the Buttress and continues
up the center and widest of three cracks running up all the way to the top. These
cracks are located in the corner, left of Tarantula.
80m (C/D) Climb and scramble two short rock pitches and grass slopes to base of
20m (E3) Start in recess formed by centre crack. After 8m, move out left and
continue up past tree to stance. (Dassie crawl along ledge and take off from
tree to overcome hanging rock.)
30m (F2) Continue up in left-hand side of crack. Rock in rear of crack very
loose and brittle at this stage. Move out on face to left where necessary.
20m (F3) Move up very strenuously until a narrow footrail can be reached on
left-hand wall of chimney. Move out and back again over block to stance at tree.
30m (F2) After take-off from tree, move left into narrow chimney. A flake on the left wall provides handhold high up. Straddle straight up to large overhang and broad ledge on left.
15m (D) Traverse around left to adjacent narrow crack.
25m (F1) After difficult start in narrow chimney, straddle up to overhang,
move out right and back again to stance on wide ledge with big trees.
20m (F2) Continue up left-hand crack past overhanging corner.
30m (F2) Chimney up and clear crack at top by moving left. Scramble to right and to top of krantz.
The climb is situated on a prominent rock pinnacle in front of the rock-fold where the route Tarantula is found. The route follows a crack in the front of the pinnacle for about two-thirds of the way and then continues up the right side of the pinnacle.
8m (F2) Mae a delicate mantleshelf move up a ledge in the front of the
pinnacle below the prominent steep crack. Move 1.5m to the right and then ascend a small crack to ledge at start of the main crack.
40m (F3) Ascend crack for 4m past first crux, continue past another difficult section until a bulging crack is reached. To avoid a loose block, traverse onto the right wall for 2-3m, then move up and traverse back on a sloping slab into the crack. Climb the crack -through an overhang - past a small tree and make a
stance on a ledge by a deep crack.
25m (F1) Move up the crack to its top, then up wall. Move up an open book
recess and continue up wall to a traverse leading to the right, (approx 5m below an overhang - a piton was left above in the corner to the left.) Traverse right to a large ledge on the right-hand side of the pinnacle. Make a stance.
40m (F2) Move around to the right into the first possible crack line. Follow
this up and then ascend to the top of the pinnacle. Do not follow the crack between the pinnacle and the main wall.
Decent: Abseil down the right side of the pinnacle (facing the pinnacle from below).
Note: The route was called Happy Landing in honor of a frog who managed to descend the pinnacle in very good style, especially in this age where artificial methods are being questioned, by making one big leap. After being slightly stunned on the ledge at the beginning of the second pitch, he made a delicate traverse to the left and then left up to make the final jump. We took the liberty of calling the pinnacle Amphibian Tower.
The climb is situated on the left corner of the next rock-fold to the right of
Octopus. Start below arch formed by pillar (left).
Climb face on the main wall, traverse left and mantelshelf up ledge. Climb
prominent crack for approximately 20m to overhang, break out right to ledge.
Climb up a few metres then diagonally up left on main face, round corner into
chimney and continue up to to block (F2). (Top of pinnacle was climbed after
Step down and traverse left under overhang into crack (2m). Climb crack to
Walk to crack behind stance and climb same, continue up awkward groove and
cracks to a stance (F2). Walk around to the right to a chimney, climb this to
big grass ledges. Zig-zag through upper grass and rock bands (F2).
The climb starts below a tree-covered ledge to the left of two large overhangs.
25m (F2) Climb the groove until there is a definite lay-back crack below the
ledge. Climb this crack 18m and continue a further 7m onto the ledge to a tree
35m (F2) Climb the obvious crack on the right starting with a rather narrow
chimney. Continue upwards past a white block, then past an overhang. The stance
is made on a very small but comfortable ledge.
25m (F1) Move to under the overhang, then traverse out left and climb up the
edge at the end of the overhang. Move up and then traverse right into a good
crack. Climb this and move onto big grass ledge.
20m (F1) Climb up the bulging block, then continue up the crack.
30m (F3) Continue up the crack until only about 2m of the difficulties
remain. To avoid these traverse 2m right then move up to a ledge. Continue up
past some overhangs to a stance at a tree.
35m (F1) Climb obvious crack route keeping left and make stance at a tree.
20m (F1) Climb the crack directly behind stance, then scramble to the top.
Descend the left-hand gully (Facing the rock), but this is not advisable in the
The climb starts from the left-hand edge of a ledge a few metres up and 10m left
of the prominent recess (Split).
15m (F3) Climb rotten looking face (surprisingly sound) then move up into
corner. Ascend corner up to overhang, then traverse out left moving onto a
ledge. Make a stance at small cubby-hole at start of crack.
30m (F2) Ascend crack above to small ledge at crack marked by some small
30m (F2) Continue up crack until the crack becomes less defined. Swing right
and move to the top of large flake. Move up a ledge to the left and continue
left to a chimney formed by a large block and the main face. Stance on top of
chimney and first grass band.
Scramble to the base of a large crack around to the left.
90m (F1) Start on right wall, then climb crack, passing a deep hole near the top of the climb.
30m (F1) Ascend grey face 6m to the right of the prominent crack (Split)
moving out slightly left after 7m, then right, to a tree. Move up 10m to the
tree belay at base of crack of rock pyramid.
30m (E3) Continue up crack and chimney to chock belay.
25m (F2) Move out diagonally right onto front face of the pyramid. Climb face
to the top of pyramid belay large overhang above.
35m (F2) Move diagonally right then up to overhang. Traverse left until clear
of overhang and continue diagonally left for 5m, and climb face to first grass
30m (F3) Climb some horizontal rock bands passing a statue-like rock on the
left into a crack. Ascend crack, making a stenuous move through a narrow
bottomless chimney. Stance just above on good ledge.
40m (F2) Move into right-hand crack f recess climbing partly on the
right-hand wall. Climb through overhanging chimney until it culminates near the
top of this second rock band.
40m (E3) Move up to final overhanging band. Traverse right for 12m then
break through to second grass band
Scramble diagonally right and then left through easy rock to the top.
30m (E3) The start is beaconed. Climb the left-hand side of the recss to a
tree about 16m up. Continue up for a further 17m to a small stance with a tree
35m (F2) Continue up the recess to a large stance with a tree belay. Hand-jam
up the right-hand side of the crack to the level of a projecting slab. Traverse
to the left and then continue up to a large stance with a tree belay. Beware of
20m (F1) Climb the right-hand side of the recess, using a narrow wedge move,
to reach a large stance with a tree belay.
20m (F2) From the beacon on the stance traverse to the right for 10m to a
right-angled crack. Climb straight up the crack for a further 10m, or
alternatively climb straight up for 5m, traverse to the left for about 3m on a
dassie traverse, move over an exposed drop and climb up and back into the crack. From here walk directly across the grass band to the next recess.
27m (E1) Climb straight up to a tree. Move to the left and continue climbing
to a square edged ledge stance.
20m (E3) Climb up the chimney, moving outwards over the overhang. Continue up
to a fairly narrow ledge stance with a boulder belay.
25m (F3) Ascend the left-hand side of the recess, then 3m below the overhang
traverse to the right-hand side of the recess. Now move up and out to the right to get out of the overhang. Continue a further 7m upwards bearing to the right
to a large stance with a tree belay.
10m (F3) Two variations are possible:
(F3) Mount the first 2m in the
corner, then traverse 2m to the right. Using a knee-jam and hugging
pincer-grips, mount a awkward bulge and continue up to a large tree.
(F2) Mount the first 2m in the corner, then traverse to the left along the
ledge to an open book topped by an overhang. Layback up the open book, swing
around to the right and then move up to the tree.
60m (D) Climb to top.
FA:K. Bennetts, T. Kerrich, M. Cramphorn & L. Klingmann, 1962
Start at a prominent right-angled corner in the large face to the right of the
40m (F1) Climb crack to stance 7m below where crack narrows.
25m (F3 A2) Traverse right 5m using a peg hand hold. Climb up to a high hand
rail (2 pegs). A bathook is used to place a good protection peg to the night.
From the bathook hand-traverse and traverse right (10m). Climb (1 peg) to a
30m (F3 A1) Climb 10m then traverse back to chimney (a high peg was used for tension). Climb crack (23m).
16m (F2) Climb chimney and face (a few metres to right).
50m (E2) Up crack and loose blocks.
23m (F1 A1) Up cracks (use a nut) and left to stance.
20m (E1) Climb round corner to left and scramble to top.
The climb is situated just to the right of the Eierkrantz buttress, between Snowflake and Wafer Crack. When looking at the face from below there is an orange scar at the bottom left. Just right of the top of the orange scar there are two prominent cracks going to the top of the face, the left one stopping just short of the top. The climb follows the left hand crack about halfway and then the right hand crack to the top.
Scramble up to the ledge where Snowflake starts. Easy if you choose the right line but rope up if in doubt. Start by scrambling up diagonally left to below some roofs. Traverse right on a ledge and another difficult move gets you to easier ground.
23m (15) Start behind the tree on the left. There is a small cave just left of it. Climb up just right of the recess behind the tree to a small roof and a big rail. Traverse right for 5m and then diagonally left up to a grassy ledge.
28m (13) From the right hand side of the ledge there is a crack leading up, climb this for 6m past one hard move with a good small cam. Traverse right on a good ledge for 5m. Further up the face there is a right facing open book. Climb towards this (this part is easy but pretty run-out). Climb the open book to a good ledge behind a block.
26m (12) Traverse left into the left crack and climb it to a small stance on a block on the right-hand side of the crack at a point where the crack becomes vegetated and very overhanging.
32m (13) Traverse right (exposed) for 9m until just before the right crack and then up to a ledge.
29m (11) Climb up and out at the short chimney at the top. Scramble to top.
About 10m left of Angelica is a small buttress against the main face about 10m high. Start in the corner between the buttress and the main face on the left side of the buttress.
45m (13) From the top of the buttress, follow a faint crack that starts just left of the buttress to a small overhang (6x1m). Pass the overhangs on the right and continue up to a ledge belew a short 2m wide roof with a small tree on the left. (There is an optional belay ledge about halfway up this pitch).
10m (12) From the right of the ledge continue up corner. To a small square ledge below a piton.
40m (15) Climb the corner until a point before it becomes overhanging. Traverse right on good ledges to the nose and then diagonally left to top.
Note: The climb can be done in two pitches by scrambling to the top of the buttress (easy on the right) and then combining pitches 1 and 2.
Route starts at the granite slab, then up the crack, out right and up to the anchors. Use the crack and stay left for 15. Use the face right of the crack for 18.
(Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)
Situated 35m to the right of the meeting place (at descent gully).
25m 15 Start at the base of the first buttress. The first 3m is the crux. Move up onto the face and semi-mantleshelf moving to the right. Continue diagonally left and up the arete. Climb moving right and then up to a good ledge and tree. (An alternative start can be made by climbing a recess to left and slightly higher - 10)
20m 10 Traverse left for 4m and up to a recess with a tree projecting out. Continue up the recess to the top.
Start below the first square overhang in the prominent slanting corner (Refer to description for GOON SHOW.)
22m 13 Ascend to the overhang, step right and follow the slanting corner crack up rightwards to a peg belay below a small triangular overhang.
15m 15 Layback up left wards 1½ m then step across onto slab. Alternatively, traverse at level of the stance and move up some way across the slab (5m 15) Move left to the edge of the slab. Then step down onto a flake or block on the corner. Traverse across recess. Ascend the left wall, working up to the left to a block stance and peg belay. (3m 15)
Situated 18m left of STORMY WEATHER. Start left of a rock rib in a recess.
35m 15 Climb the recess just left of a rock rib and right of a tree a little way up on the rock. Move up to the top of the recess and step over right. Move right for 2m. Continue up a wall to a ledge. Climb up the rock above (small overhang) to a short wall. Move slightly left and up and move right to a ledge. To the right there is sloping rock which ends in a wall and overhangs. To the left is a thin crack line running up a wall. Climb this to sloping rock. Move slightly left and then step right. Continue up to a rib of rock and a tree at the top. Belay.
About 50m to the right of TOWER OF PISA there is a prominent ridge undercut by a large overhang. Start at the right-hand side of the ridge and to the right of KEG AND TANKARD.
15m 10 Move up and left under the overhang and continue up a groove to a stance level with the lip of the overhang.
23m 15 Above the stance is a subsidiary rib to the left of the main ridge and separated from it by a groove. Continue up the rib until a small tree is reached in the groove. Make a blind move right across the wall to reach the main ridge. From here climb up the crest of the ridge for 6m to reach a stance and good belay.
30m 8 Follow the ridge veering leftwards to the top.
By only gaining the ridge at half height, the main challenge is avoided.
30m 13 Climb up a broken ramp for 4m. Move diagonally right across a wall above some overhangs for 8m and straight up through a break in some small overhangs. Move over right to a rib, continue up and traverse left along a slanting ledge. Belay just before a small corner.
30m 15 Climb the corner and crack above to a point below a big overhang. Step out right and continue up to a shallow recess to the top
From the descent gully follow the foot of the krantz until the first steep obvious ridge is reached. At this point the trees start to get more numerous.
15m 11 On the right of the ridge is an obvious recess. Climb up the recess until it is possible to move out left to a detached block on the ridge. Move back a few metres to the right behind a large tree and climb straight up to a good ledge and belay.
45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few metres until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.
18m 15 Direct Start: Start about 3m to the left of the ridge and move up and slightly right to gain a shallow groove. Climb strenuously up the groove passing a detached block on the ridge. Climb directly over the overhang above just to the left of the ridge to reach a good ledge and belay.
45m 15 Above, the ridge is steep and uncompromising. Move round to the right and climb a corner formed by a pillar leaning against the main face. At 15m it is necessary to move left to gain a subsidiary ramp (peg for protection). This is followed for a few metres until it is possible to swing out left onto the ridge. Thence easily to top.
The route follows the general line of a small buttress immediately to the left of PARAMOUNT FACE.
18m 6 Scramble up an easy grey face to the foot of the buttress and traverse along a grassy ledge as far as a steep grey face to the right of the buttress.
22m 10 Commencing about 5m to the right of the recess between the buttress and the grey face, climb straight up the grey face to a long broad ledge. A tree belay is available by climbing another 5m but the ledge itself is adequate as a stance.
12m 8 Traverse horizontally left to a small stance on the buttress.
22m 11 Ascend the buttress on small holds on the face and climb a crack above the belay point. At the top of the crack traverse 3m left to a small stance below an overhang.
25m 15 Traverse back into the top of the crack and continue traversing to right as high as possible onto, and around, the right hand corner of the buttress, reaching a small cubbyhole on the corner in an exposed position. To the right of the cubbyhole around a second small corner is a brown face with a crack running in it and a few small sloping footholds. Climb this face for 6m to a ledge with a block on it then traverse to left around the corner to the face of the buttress and ascend this face for 6m to a good stance.
Located 100 - 150m east of EUREKA GULLY. The climb usually starts from the broad grass band or ledge which is about 30m above the top of the grass slope and may be reached by a number of easy routes. The commencement from this grass ledge is marked by a beacon about 9m to the right of a small cave.
9m 10 Straight up on good holds for 9m to a small stance near a long rift running towards a very pronounced overhang with a green slab underneath.
22m 13 Delicate sideways traverse of a short slab to a wide crack, then straight up and slightly to left for 18m to a good stance 6m under an overhang.
9m 15 The stance is in a corner between the main face underneath the overhang and a small rib of rock projecting 1m to the left. Climb in this corner to directly under the overhang then stretch to left on to the rib which forms a 90o angle with the face. A small stance is then reached.
15m 9 On good rock, climb 3m slightly to left slanting to right to a wide grass stance.
Start about 100m right of FOUR MAN GULLY and about 2m left of the fence, below a large overhang. At this point the face is split by two lines of overhangs. The route follows a crack on the left-hand side of the lower overhang and avoids the upper overhang on the right. A diagonal traverse back to the left gains arete which is followed to the summit.
40m 11 Follow a ramp slanting to the left for about 18m to gain an obvious slab. Continue in the same diagonal line across the slab to a corner. Climb the corner to a ledge and belay at the bottom of a crack level with the first overhang.
20m 15 Climb the crack for 8m (Awkward to start), step right to reach the arete and traverse a few metres to a detached flake. Climb up a few metres on to the top of the flake (care needed here) and then traverse 6m to a good ledge and peg belay.
45m 10 Climb straight up from the belay for 5m and then move diagonally left to reach an obvious arete. Follow the arete to the top.
To the right of STEPPENWOLF there is a prominent rib. The climb is up the right-hand side of this rib.
40m 15 Climb up right of a tree protruding from a steep face. Move up into a crack running up this face. Climb to a ledge and traverse left to the rib. Climb up the right hand side of the rib until the rock overhangs slightly. Move left around the rib and up to a ledge. Continue up easy-angled rock to the top.
The climb goes up the steep face 5m downstream of BOUNCING BABY.
35m 15 Start on the left of a 6m high pinnacle. Climb the recess past the right-hand side of the big overhang. Follow the corner to a flaky overhang. Ascend the left-hand face to the overhang above. Traverse right to tree and belay.
20m 13 Traverse 3m left (back) into the recess and climb the recess past the left-hand side of the overhang. Climb the face above to the top.
Start on the true right-hand side of the kloof, opposite RIPPLE MARK. The climb begins on a polished sloping black slab at ground level and initially goes up a smooth black corner which overhangs 30m up.
25m 11 Climb a recess with some cracks higher up to a small stance. (At the stance be careful of large loose blocks, particularly if used as a belay point.)
20m 9 Traverse diagonally left 20m to a large platform stance above a tree.
25m 15 Ascend the recess on the left face above via a small tree to the overhang. Surmount the overhang on its right. Follow the recess to top.
The route starts immediately left of MARK THE RIPPLES, passing through the square-cut overhang above.
18m 15 Ascend the steep, brown, fluted rock immediately left of the start of MARK THE RIPPLES. (Small friends for protection.) Bridge up until able to reach a side-pull then move up to the ledge above.
35m 19 Climb the crack system to below the roof, where good protection may be arranged. Exit through the crack on the upstream side by layback/jamming to gain easier ground above.
From beneath the roof it is possible to exit on the downstream side. Using a small foothold on the nose, move left onto easier ground.
This climb takes the break which starts at the top of a short gully on the true right, just upstream of SOFTY. Scramble up the gully past slab on the left (STONERS DELIGHT) and buttress on right with crack in it (CAREBEAR SURPRISE) to its highest point. It starts higher than the surrounding climbs.
40m 15 Climb up to the first overhang. Continue up easy rock to open book. Continue up, moving left to top of crag.
This climb starts just downstream of ROAMER (i.e. about 10 to 15m upstream of the lower meet spot). It climbs the open book just to the right of a gully recess.
30m 15 Climb the open book (recess) using the slab on left. Continue up to a ledge with a small tree. Continue up past the tree by moving left onto the slab. Climb up to a small grassy ledge with a corner above. Up the corner and continue up the open book to the top of the crag.
Situated 15m from the broken-pipe drip on the true left of the kloof where two obvious breaks take off from opposite ends of an elevated block.
25m 15 Straddle the grey recess on the right-hand edge of the block for 4m. Move diagonally right over the bulge. Continue upwards via the slightly overhanging open book to the well-defined recess with the intricately rippled floor.
40m 15 Straddle the recess until it closes. Step out onto the face and pull up. Continue upwards keeping right at the top of the buttress.
Opposite GOLDEN GOOSE is a high buttress. The route takes a thin crack line up the broken rock at the left extremity of this buttress and makes for the V-notch visible high up - cairn.
41m 15 Climb the crack (using the rounded holds which all seem to slope the wrong way) until the angle eases and one can take a stance in the recess below the roof of the V-notch. The crux is about half way up and for height challenged persons comprises a precarious lay back move.
10m 15 Move up to the roof and straddle through this (airy) to the easier ground above. Climb the headwall of the pinnacle above moving first left and then up and to the right to break through the roof (good grips) to reach the top of the pinnacle
A surprisingly excellent climb on steep rock, airy but all there.
Descend from the top, carefully, down the steep gully immediately upstream of the route.
The climb starts 30m downstream of the point where water flows out of the pipe, on the left side of the kloof. The climb inclines leftwards up the first solid buttress downstream of a long stretch of broken krantz.
20m 11 Climb up 3m in a broken open book, move 2m right over the broken bulge. Continue up for 6m to an overhang then move right over the bulge onto the broad sloping ledge. Continue up diagonally left for 5m to the small stance with loose block. (Peg belay.)
20m 15 Traverse 6m diagonally left to a chimney and climb the chimney to the ledge.
25m 6 Continue up the ridge via the large ledge to the top.
2b. 11 After 5m up the chimney, traverse 5m right then straight up the crack and round the small tree to the right. Move 5m left along the ledge to the same stance.)
The climb is situated on the second rock face on the right as one enters the kloof. The first rock face is approximately 40m high and the second, moving up the kloof on the right, is approximately 50m high. Start on slanting rock slabs at the base of the main wall.
13m 14 Climb the second main recess from the left (cairn). Climb up the crack and move diagonally right to a small tree growing out of a crack. Move over this and up, traversing diagonally left to slanting ledges. Belay on blocks (a good thread on jammed blocks).
15m 15,A2 Continue straight up crack above the stance to a small tree also in a crack. Move diagonally up right across an overhanging wall (three points of aid) to an obvious shallow recess . Continue up (peg) to a metre wide ledge, then move left and up to a giant ledge. Small tree belay.
36m 13 Continue up a short wall, with all the holds slanting towards you, to a ledge. Climb a crack system and flake on the left side of a buttress for about 25m to a tree. Move left to a wall which forms the highest rock point from the face below.
30m 15 Move up the corner following the roots to a large tree. Gain height with the aid of the tree (this tree is now missing - use Pitch 1 of RED HOT TOOTIE) moving right with a hand jam in the crack then up the crack to good hand holds. Carryon up broken rock to a largish tree at the foot of an overhanging recess.
20m 11 Move over the block via the corner then across a large flat rock to the next large block. Move over the block then belay at the tree. (Common stance with RIGHT SLANT.)
30m 15 Move up the recess for 5m then move left around the corner (thin). Move up to the top.
Starts 25m upstream of GUNSIGHT where an obvious looking weakness leads diagonally left.
40m 15,A1 Climb diagonally left along the weakness. Continue leftwards on rounded holds for 5m to a block. Move up the black "waterchute" recess until 2m from a large ledge above. Make final hold-less moves with 2 pegs.