Routes in Africa for selected grade

Climbed on top rope only.

19,21

Sustained.

Excellent route with technical slab climbing on tiny edges and smears. New approach pitch - go left around to the arete and climb to the original start past 3 bolts, much better than the original chimney approach. Rebolted in 2022 by Robert Powell.

Climb the chimney and go to the left to find a white rock spot. Follow the tricky face climb to the anchor.

Bolted for short climbers. Tricky balance start, good friction up to the anchor.

On the corner of Groothoek gully is a buttress with a tree on top. It is possible to scramble up it from the left. Just left of the buttress is a wide water streak right of a small (30cm) right facing corner. The original climb starts 30m directly above the right facing corner on a large ledge which can be accessed by traversing left from the above mentioned buttress. There is supposed to be a "very good direct start (17)" to reach this point.

1. 30m (21) Scramble up on the right of the water streak to a point about halfway up the water streak where you can traverse over it on a wide ledge.Climb the small right facing corner and then the face above it to a wide ledge. It also looks possible to climb the right facing corner from the bottom starting in a small cubbyhole at ground level if it is dry.

2. 30m (17) The belay ledge is 5m above the wide belay ledge for P2 of Black Eagle Crag. From the left of the ledge, traverse 2m left and then 3m up then continue diagonally up right for about 6m to a break leading diagonally up left for about 15m to an awkward step. Continue up to a large ledge. Sustained grade 15 climbing.

3. 8m (10) Traverse left towards pile of blocks at a point just before the ledge goes around the corner. Start by downclimbing about 1m and traverse left on excellent footholds and tiny handholds to avoid a short section of loose rocks. Belay just before the pile of blocks. It may be possible to combine this pitch with the previous one if rope drag is not too bad.

4. 30m (13) Continue up going diagonally right. Climb over a short ridge with big steps going up and right. Belay on ledge.

5. 30m (15) Continue up tending left to a point under the left hand extreme of the large overhangs. Swing left around the corner using good holds on a high ledge. Continue up in corner to the top.

Note: Pitches 4 and 5 are a variation of the original line that provides better climbing. The original line climbed much further towards the right to a grass and aloe ramp and then up various corners to a ledge leading to the right, finishing 4m left of Chukamisa.

This route climbs directly up the middle of “red sail” (same face as Vavoom) and breaks through the left extremity of the top overhangs

1. Scramble / rope up to big grassy ledge. 60m 13

2. Start at the base of an obvious crack feature in the middle of the wall. Climb the excellent crack until it ends after 20m and then trend up and right through 4 bulges with rails in between to a stance on a good ledge about 15m to the right of the start. (55m) 19

3. Traverse up and left, then climb on the right side of a prominent yellow pillar. Stance on top of the pillar on the left (good ledge) .20m 15

4. Step right off the ledge, climb up 4m then climb left and up until able to break through first overhangs to a good jam. Continue straight up and slightly left to pull through final overhangs on cape style jugs. Then climb straight up to the top on easy rock (60m) 21

Descent

1. Scramble 10m down main gulley between gasoline wall and red sail wall to a good yellowwood. Rap 50m off this.

2. Good ledge on true right (west wall) on red sail wall. Fixed nut and good thread. Rap 40m to grassy ledge.

3. Walk to massive yellowwood on far eastern corner of ledge rap off this to ground – 60m

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

Starts just left of Intrusion, abseil possible with a single 60m rope.

This route starts 25m to the left of Where Eagles Dare and joins that route at the last pitch.

Start 10m to the right of Where Eagles Dare at a block. Note: If a party has to escape off the climb from the top of pitch 4 and has only a single rope, it is recommended to traverse right onto the ledge after pitch 5 of BDND or to abseil down pitch 4 below in 2 sections leaving some gear on one of the hangers just above the bulge.

Start as for Big Dreamers Never Die.

1. Climb straight up just to the right of the grey water mark.

2. Climb up to the right of the tree and left above the large ledge and up a ramp to a small ledge shared with BDND.

3. Climb up the crack/flake on the right to its top, then traverse left for 4m into the big recess (crux). Climb up the recess (sustained) until one reaches an awesome large shady ledge with chains. This is the same as pitch 5 of BDND

4. Traverse right over a tree into the base of a recess. Climb up the recess and at its top move up right into an exposed position on the nose. Climb up from there to the top.

Straight up the face of the bulge. (Skoenlapper, Super Cool Nifty and Miena se Muis use the same anchors.)

Start 15m left of Naked Orange.

1. 30m (G3) Climb the steep crack (mostly G2 and G3). When the holds run out, make a hard traverse (G3) left and up on small knobs. Move back into the crack and up onto a stance about 5m below the roof.

2. 30m (G2) Traverse right on small holds to a recess which yields some protection. Continue railing to the end of the roof. Move up on the right to an easy traverse line back left. Where this ends (directly above previous stance) drop down and rail into the flared open book on the left. Climb this with difficulty and then onto the face above and through rightwards to a large flake. Climb this to a stance on the left.

3. 30m (F3) Climb the recess on the left to a grassy ledge where a scramble to the right leads to easy ground and convenient abseil trees.

The climb starts 10m to the right of where the boundary fence terminates against the rock face. This is about 100m to the right of the start of Hanglip Frontal.

1. 25m (F2) Ascend the steep recess to a ledge on top of a protruding spike.

2. 20m (G1) Continue up awkwardly on thin holds, move over to the left and climb up to some chockstones.

3. 25m (F3) Continue up to a small tree under an overhang. Climb the recess above and exit out to the left. Move diagonally left then up a recess to a stance.

4. 30m (F2) Climb the recess above to just below overhangs. Traverse awkardly left around a bulge until it is possible to climb up diagonally right then up through a break to a stance at a small fig tree.

5. 45m (F2) Ascend the corner above for 3m then traverse right about 6m. Climb up to the grass band. The top section goes up the very prominent recess which goes straight to the top (to the right of the leaning pillar). Beacon.

6. 25m (F3) Climb up on left then back right into recess. Climb a small overhang (fixed peg below) and continue up passing a smooth open book until reaching a cave.

7. 22m (F3) Climb out on the right side of the cave then up to a ledge.

8. 40m (G2 A0) Climb the recess above, move slightly right then back left into upper recess. Climb delicately up to under an overhang. Pull up onto a narrow ledge using one aid handhold (A0). Continue delicately up to a small open book. Move up then right and through a crack to a ledge. Climb up a crack then diagonally right to a ledge beneath an overhang.

9. 25m (G3) Move up and strenuously climb the overhang. Continue up the stepp recess (F3) until it is possible to climb right and up to a ledge.

10. 40m (E1) Climb to the top.

Notes:

1. This climb is poorly protected. In some places don’t even think of falling.

2. Micro’s are essential.

BAPM takes a fairly direct line up the buttress opposite the deep 'pothole pool'. Scramble up to small flat overhangs on the lower grey section of the buttress.

1. 15m 10 Climb past the overhangs on the left, step to the right and continue straight up to a large ledge below steep red and black rock.

2. 25m 19 Climb up 2m then undercling to the right to the left hand side of two cracks which form the candleflame shape as seen from below. Move up to the top of the 'flame' and continue up to the right to belay on a small ledge next to a tree.

3. 25m 7 Move around to the right into the main corner, which is followed to large ledges (this portion is common with MARTHA). Climb to the right to the ledge at the foot of the appealing final crack, which runs up a zone of red rock right of an overhang.

4. 25m 21 Follow the crack as it curves up to the right. When it fades, move up and to the left beneath the grey overhang. Traverse to the left past a dubious block until the top can be reached by climbing steep grey, lichen-covered rock (18A1).

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of pitch 2 from where its straightforward to scramble down.

2. It makes sense to do this route in two pitches – scramble past the 1st pitch on the right, and link pitches 2 and 3.

Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.

Climbs the face just to the left of GRAND ILLUSION.

1. 15m 21 Start a metre left of GRAND ILLUSION and head up the face, trending left. Place gear at a vague rail on the arête and then finish up right. Notes:

2. Gear is marginal. Opened on pre-placed gear.

3. Opened on an international MCSA meet, gritstone-style. Steve is from the UK.

Descent: As for GRAND ILLUSION.

A short overhanging finger crack on a buttress on the true left of the AVALON valley, opposite GRAND ILLUSION. The buttress faces south east.

1. 10m 21 Climb the crack.

Descent: Scramble off the back of the buttress.

This states enough thin layers of clothing worn at night obviate the need for a sleeping bag in winter at Blouberg. Its corollary says that enough poor protection before a long runout obviates the need for cowboy action on the route. The validity of both have been questioned.

1. 25m 21 Start 5m left of CRAG RATS AGAINST MILEAGE. Climb the corner crack until it ends. Ascend a further 4m to a questionable peg. Move left along the thin seam/rail to place more gear. (Peg, small Metolius and Walnut 0, 00). Climb up to the undercling and continue up to the ledge.

Notes:

1. If you are as short as Lobster, this is impossible. If you have a psyche problem, don't bother. Now sports a bolt (the bolt is most likely dubious by now)

Start about 500m left of the base of the ramp below a drip coming from an overhang about 40m up. Start on a boulder about 10m left of a large tree with a white bark. There is a small tree on the face about 8m up.

1. 25m 19 Straight up, through a diagonal L to a corner. Up the corner for a few metres, then right to a ledge.

2. 15m 21 Diagonally up and left to below a roof. Pull through and up to a semihanging belay.

3. 20m 20 Traverse right around the nose, and upwards past a drip.

4. 25m 16 Climb up and right to a cabbage tree. Traverse right to break, then up to a ledge. Traverse 5m left below a crack.

5. 15m 20 Climb steep crack to ledge then move 5m left, and down to below chimney.

6. 25m 17 Climb up chimney. Then left through overhang and up to a ledge/cave just below corner.

7. 45m 19 Start on right, up corner to below roof, then traverse left to arête. Up over easy ground to burned grass ledge.

8. 45m 10 Up diagonally left over pleasant clean rock to traverse level, traverse left to below chimney.

9. 25m 16 Up chimney then up through bush to top. Crawl 45 to 50 seconds (i.e. less than one minute!) stroll to pool at top of rock.

Start 20m left of LOST TRIBE at the base of a blunt arête. A steep corner can be seen about 10m up. Cairn.

1. 35m 19 Climb up diagonally left for a few metres over juggy rock (loose looking, but mega solid). Climb up to corner, climb it for about 6m, then move out left onto the arête, then straight up to a small stance.

2. 25m 19 Straight up for a few meters then traverse right and up (airy), and along a ledge until about 4m left of the 3rd pitch of LOST TRIBE (i.e. the big corner to the right). Climb up and left, then straight up to a stance on top of some blocks below a steep crack.

3. 20m 20 Climb the steep rock and crack above to a roof. Move 2m left and pull up through onto a ledge above. Walk 5m left.

4. 20m 19 Climb the crack/recess to a roof. Pull through the roof and move right and up to a stance on a small ledge below a flake.

5. 35m 21 Climb the corner/flake to the roof and make long moves right to gain a jug. Pull up then move 2m left to a shallow corner. Up the corner and the one above to until one can climb easily up to the left to a large scoop below a roof. Traverse about 5m left to stance on a narrow ledge.

6. 20m 19 Climb the crack above the stance to another ledge (8m). Move left then climb the steep face/crack above to a ledge. Scramble up from the stance to a bushy ledge. Bash to the chimney gully about 10m right and climb the tree and arête above to take you to ledges and gullies that are part of the LOST TRIBE scramble. Bash/climb to the summit. A casual stroll (via the maze) brings you back to the campsite.

Start in the obvious recess left of LOST TRIBE.

1. 21 Climb the recess to a stance common with LOST TRIBE.

A short route with excellent climbing starting 1m right of the main recess.

1. 35m 18 Move up slightly right to the bottom of an obvious crack, is climbed until able to veer left to the base of a recessed crack which is climbed to a stance on loose blocks.

2. 15m 21 (18A2) Traverse 6m left to below the first break through the overhang. Aid up, with 3 nuts, to a large ledge.

3. 35m 16 Climb up the recess until forced to exit right. Traverse 10m right and them up to stance on a block.

4. 20m l8 From the block drop down and traverse 2m right to below a crack. Climb the superb crack until able to move right onto a ledge with blocks.

5. 45m 16 From the right of the stance move diagonally up to a rail. Rail right then climb up to a tree in the gully. Scramble off to top of the maze.

Notes:

1. Variation: 4. 25m 20 Instead of moving right, continue straight up crack to ledge on the left with chains. 2 abseils take you back to the ground.

Climbs the pillar to the left of the 50m long roof situated about 70m up, between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE. Start below the pillar at a V in the path between two boulders. Above is an obvious fist crack on the left side of a large flake.

1. 20m 21 Climb the fist crack, move right, and climb the final few metres from the top of the flake to gain a narrow, continuous ledge.

2. 30m 19 Climb up to the base of an obvious V-groove, and climb this to exit right. Traverse right, move up into the base of a stepped corner and climb this to a ledge on the arête on the left.

3. 25m 18 Climb up about 15 metres to the level of a prominent traverse line which is followed left to a stance on the arête (a loose pitch).

4. 50m 20 Climb more or less straight up to large grass ledge. The next pitch starts about 10 metres to the right, from a tree about 6 metres left of a damp corner.

5. 50m 19 Move up steeply and rail right to pull onto a ledge. Follow a left trending dihedral to a ledge, then climb straight up, keeping left, to a high stance.

6. 40m 16 Climb up rightwards to a grassy ledge at the left base of a huge pinnacle. Climb the recess on the left side of the pinnacle to a ledge on top.

7. 30m 21 Step onto the face at the base of obvious left trending crack system. Tricky moves to start lead to recess which is climbed to semi-stance on the left.

8. 20m 21 Climb the left-hand left-leaning crack, moving left at the top to gain a scoop. Continue up leftwards until able to traverse left to a stance.

9. 45m 20 Starting on the left, climb up to a scoop. Continue up the break, through a tree, and climb the right-hand crack through two roofs to reach a good ledge (MOONLIGHT stance). Jam through the apex of the roof to the highest ledge.

10. 40m 19 Climb the right leaning crack, traverse left to the base of a right facing dihedral, and climb this to large ledges.

11. 75m 15 Follow the right-trending ramp on the wall above. Continue to the top.

The route starts 10m right of LAST MOON at a 3m flake/pillar.

1. 40m 18 From the top of the flake, climb straight up the break above to stance on a ledge on the right.

2. 40m 17 Continue directly up the break, through a small overhang at 30m to a stance at the base of a small face.

3. 40m 18 Climb straight up to the Grassy Ledge. It is unnecessary to deviate more than a metre or 2 either way anywhere on the first 3 pitches. Walk about 20m to the left (i.e. to about 4m right of the striking dihedral, capped by a long roof, taken by EIGHT MILES HIGH).

4. 20m 19 Climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up cracks until able to traverse right to another crack. Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the corner.

5. 20m 21 Climb the face to a rail leading left to the base of the dihedral, which is climbed to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the left-leading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove.

6. 25m 19 Move up the crack to rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right then down to a small ledge.

7. 20m 18 Move up and left until under the roof. Continue traversing leftwards until it is possible to gain a small ledge in the break.

8. 30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge.

9. 20m 17 Traverse left to an off-width crack (mostly walking).

10. 40m 21 Key Crack: Climb directly up until the going gets easier. Continue to the second ledge.

11. 55m 16 Climb the crack above to a ledge 10m up. Move 5m right to the clean break, which is climbed for 5m. Move 4m right to gain the knobbly slabs above. Climb these straight up to a stance on a short square pillar. Stay roped for the scramble to the top.

Start about 35m right of LAST MOON, below a 3m by 2m roof 15m up (as for MOONRAKER).

1. 45m 20 Climb flake to recess between flakes (MOONRAKER takes right flake). Move left and up then traverse left to (delicate) double flakes. Up these to narrow roof, which is turned to gain recess. Climb this, moving right at top.

2. 40m 20 Move 2m left, then climb steeply until able to finger-rail left through top of green patch. Move up and diagonally right to reach a ledge. Climb left facing corner, pull right through roof and stance.

3. 35m 16 Climb up to Grassy Ledge. Walk right.

4. 50m 20 Start a few metres left of pinkish-white amphitheatre, directly below the point where main roof tapers to about 1,5 metres. Climb deviously up orange face to rounded blocky buttress beneath roof. Pull through and move up to base of recess. Climb easily up to left of recess to reach a large ledge on the left.

5. 30m 17 Climb obvious recess directly above previous pitch and continue up to a stance at the base of two cracks (LAST MOON's obvious gully is to the right).

6. 30m 21 Climb the right-leaning right crack (narrow dihedral), and traverse right to a left facing corner crack, which is followed to reach the left end of a ledge (LAST MOON's Bivi Cave to the right).

7. 30m 20 Traverse left to big ledges – awesome!

8. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a small ledge. Continue up to next (big) ledge at base of right facing corner.

9. 35m 15 Move left and climb up to ledges. Continue up face to right of a bushy crack and stance on ledge on right (follow your nose on this pitch).

10. 35m 15 Move right across crack, climb up and right to an easy face which is followed right to a large ledge.

11. 45m 15 Climb to the top.

Notes:

1. Pitch 8 (Precious Mettles) was originally bolted on abseil by Mike Cartwright as a direct finish to SOMETHING OF VALUE.

2. The 5th pitch after the grass ledge (the precious mettle pitch) has 2 bolts on it. These very dodgy old ones were replaced with new M10, 100mm stainless steel bolts in October 2005. This is a great, well protected route.

3. Pitch 7 was first climbed by Mike Cartwright before the route was opened.

4. The remainder of the route was opened on-sight, in a day.

5. It is possible to traverse right to LAST MOON from the last part of pitch 4 and from many places on pitch 5, at about grade 18 (depending).

6. SOMETHING OF VALUE joins the big ledge at the end of pitch 7 from directly below and then traverses left.

This is a high-quality linkup of EIGHT MILES HIGH, SOMETHING OF VALUE, TEQUILA SUNRISE, TEDDY BEARS’ PICNIC, and BLUE MOON

LAST MOON is a gnarly fist sized crack in a left facing 40m corner. HEY JUDE starts from the highest ledge 10m left of LAST MOON below the right facing corner flake. This routes starts about 3m left of HEY JUDE at the base of a rounded slab.

1. 45m 21 Climb the thin crack system running up the centre of the slab to a ledge. Climb the hand crack on the right side of the pillar above, and continue up and right to a narrow ledge (shared with HEY JUDE). (EMH)

2. 35m 18 Pull through the narrowest point in the roof about 3m right of the stance. Climb trending slightly left to small ledge at the base of a shallow water scoop. (EMH)

3. 35m 18 Climb up scoop, trending right at top to exit onto Grassy Ledge. (EMH) Follow your nose route finding. Nothing too hard.

4. 20m 19 EMH takes the striking dihedral capped by a long roof. About 4m right of, this climb up 4m to place gear behind a big flake. Continue up crack for a few meters until able to traverse right to another crack (don’t be fooled into continuing all the way up the crack – it gets hard!). Climb up to a large ledge, then walk 5m right to belay below the hanging corner 5m higher. (SOV)

5. 45m 21 Step off the ledge a few meters further right at a thin vertical crack (small wires / RP’s). Climb the face to a rail, then rail left to the base of the dihedral. Climb this to a roof. Move rightwards past the roof to pegs and follow the leftleading crack above to a small, off balance ledge. Navigate through the roof into the corner above and follow this to the jumbo ledge. Wild climbing. Walk about 10m right and down to the base of a short crack/groove. (TS)

6. 25m 19 Move up the crack to a rail which is traversed rightwards a few metres. Climb up 3-4m to another traverse line leading right, below the aloe and grass clump. Step down and traverse right to stance where the rock turns to chicken heads. (SOV)

7. 20m 18 Climb up on chicken heads to the right of the aloe clump then trend leftwards above it, aiming for an undercling crack beneath a small roof. Traverse left here, with your feet above a second, lower roof to gain a small ledge in the break just beyond the left edge of the top roof. (SOV)

8. 30m 20 Above are two cracks through a gnarly wall. Climb the left-hand one to a rail about 10m up, then move left, up then diagonally right to a point above the stance. Move straight up to a bivi ledge. (SOV)

9. 35m 21 Precious Mettles pitch: Starting near left end of ledge, climb face past 2 bolts, trend right, then up and left to a ledge (TP)

10. 60m 21 Climb left-trending thin diagonal crack until it dies. Continue diagonally left to easier ground. Traverse right and pull onto the easy slab. Up this and follow your nose until you run out of rope. Careful on this pitch – it sucks you in to a big lead-out. (BM). An easy alternative is to start 10m left around the corner and climb easy gnarly faces to the top.

11. 30m 16 Scramble/climb to the summit.

Starts up the obvious left-leaning diagonal break about 30m left of THE RAZORS EDGE (i.e. just right of the pile of huge boulders that one has to crawl through or climb over).

1. 40m 20 Climb the break, passing two bulging to a small stance.

2. 35m 19 up the break for 8m to where it steepens. Traverse left to break in left skyline with spike. Traverse 5m left to small stance.

3. 35m 21 Move up and left a few metres to a small, vague corner and up a few metres to a roof. Up to a nail (originally aided on 3 points), then left 2m to a break. Climb up and diagonally left to a stance.

4. 40m 19 Up from stance then diagonally right to rejoin the diagonal crack at the base of the grey pillar. Climb up the left-hand side of this to a large stance.

5. 42m 21 [R] Straight up to the right-hand edge of some roofs about 15m up. Pass these on the right and climb up and right to a crack to the left of some more roofs. Climb this to a stance, passing right of an aloe and bush.

6. 40m 18 Move up and left into a corner. Up the corner and up gnarly rock to semi-hanging belay where the rock steepens.

7. 42m 19 [R] Straight up through bulge (2-3m right of thin crack). Move slightly right to a crack, up this for a few metres then diagonally left to a long grassy ledge. Stroll 15m left to below a crack splitting a yellow, lichen covered face. This is a few metres left and below MOONRAKER's 19 (crux) pitch.

8. 48m 19 [R] Straight up the crack to top and straight up bulging wall above to join MOONRAKER for the last few metres to a stance common with LAST MOON as well.

9. 40m 17 Straight up the jug forest above the stance and move slightly right onto the slab above. Climb straight up and finish left of some aloes to a long ledge.

10. 20m 16 Climb up on the right hand side of the huge boulder to an undercling flake. Move out left and up to the bundu ledge.

11. Bash across the ledge and climb the chimney of your choice to the top.

Notes:

1. Pitches 5, 7 and 8 are not abundantly well protected

The climb is situated on the right-hand side of the face. The main feature is a huge pink corner starting halfway up the cliff. Start directly below the corner, about 100m to the left of MALEBOCH. The climb starts at a large block leaning against the face to the right of a big tree.

1. 40m 14 Climb chimney on right side of block. Traverse 5m right into shallow groove. Climb groove and wide crack to ledge. Step up and traverse 3m left. Climb to top of block. Traverse 4m right into recess. Ascend this to big ledge.

2. 20m 11 Walk 10m right to end of ledge and climb a recess to base of prominent curving crack.

3. 25m 12 Climb crack for 4m and continue diagonally right around corner to ledge.

4. 20m 12 Climb recess diagonally left via short steep section to small stance and chock belay. This recess runs parallel to curving crack mentioned in pitch 2.

5. 25m 12 Step right. Climb up for 2m and traverse left around a corner. Ascend a recess to a big ledge (shared with MALEBOCH).

6. 25m 14 Climb up behind large flake and continue to the left below steep broken corner. Climb the corner via sloping face to ledge below huge open book.

7. 35m 18 Climb left-hand face for 15m and traverse right into the open book. Climb this to a small ledge. (BIG CORNER DIRECT goes straight up from here).

8. 28m 21 (18A2) Traverse left to break below recess (bivi spot further along this ledge on the corner). Straddle square recess for 5m. Step delicately left onto face and climb steeply to top of pillar. Stretch across right to thin crack. Make two layback moves to below aloe. Step left and mantle onto a ledge. Climb crack above to another ledge, step right under an aloe and move up to stance.

9. 10m 16 Climb a steep corner and exit right via an awkward sloping groove to stance below steep overhanging crack.

10. 40m 20 (18A1) Climb the crack. Continue to the left into a narrow, deep chimney and climb this to large platform.

11. 35m 20 (18A1) Climb right hand crack. Continue up steep crack rightwards, then step right to ledge and stance. Brilliant pitch!

12. 23m 16 Step onto small ledge and pull up strenuously, climbing diagonally left. Continue straight up through small overhang onto face above, using good layback holds. Move diagonally up and right across face to where the angle eases. Continue up to ledge with trees.

13. 35m 16 Climb a crack on the left and continue up sloping face past tree to a grassy ledge. Climb up steeply (hard) into base of huge chimney.

14. 20m 14 Walk up around the corner then chimney to the top (chimney common with MALEBOCH).

Notes:

1. Most people use a scrambling route to the right of the first 5 pitches, roping up for pitch 6 onwards. Continue rightwards past the start of the route until able to scramble up and then diagonally left. Scramble till scared, then rope up and follow your nose to the base of the obvious dihedral of pitch 7.

BIG CORNER DIRECT 22 * * : Pitch 8 & 9 40m 22 Blast up the BIG CORNER. At the top, move left to rejoin the original route. FA: Clive Curson.

Climbs a section of the wall to the right of MALEBOCH. Scramble as for MALEBOCH / BIG CORNER. Before the squeeze-through-flake marking the end of the other routes’ scramble, traverse right and up across grassy rock for about 20m to a ledge.

1. 25m 21 Climb up and slightly right to a ledge. Climb the right-facing dihedral to a rail, move right, and continue up to a ledge. Climb to the top of the block on the right.

2. 40m 21 Climb up and right to the arête. Move back diagonally left and climb a short groove. Traverse right then trend left and up to a stance between two small trees.

3. 35m 17 Climb the face, steep cracks and negotiate the bulge. Continue up and right to a large ledge at the top of the right arête.

4. Scramble up the broad gully to the top.

This route climbs an amazing crack system up the ‘impressive brown face’ referred to in 'Mixed Grill'. This overhanging face is clearly visible from the start of 'Four Man Gully' , high up on the 'Skeerpoort' side and not on the dome itself. Walk up 'Four Man Gully' and scramble up chocked boulders until able to scramble (almost) right around towards the steep face. One is now at the start of pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'.

1. 15m 20 As for pitch 4 of 'Mixed Grill'. i.e. traverse right for 3m to a corner. From the corner move right, first on small holds then to a jug. From jug, climb up diagonally right to a stance in another corner.

2. 35m 21 To get into the crack system running up the steep wall, climb down from the stance, then up wall. Climb crack system until bulge. Make a hard move over bulge and up an amazing hand jam crack and excellent rock. Climb the very steep crack until angle eases. Continue jamming until able to stance at tree. Amazing!

Starts approximately 20m downstream of 'Late Breeze'. A bolt about 8m up marks the face that is climbed. The climb starts at the base of the face to the left of the corner with a tree in it. 'Sounds Of Silence' ascends the crack around the corner on the left.

1. 23m 21 Climb directly up to the bolt. Continue past the bolt up the face, then move left onto the arete to a small ledge. Climb the short steep arete to the large ledge shared with 'Sounds Of Silence'.

2. 20m 17 Move to the right past a tree. Climb the arete and face to the top of the crag.

This climb is situated on the buttress just upstream of the attractive face with KB4 and ABSENTIA on it. The climb follows the downstream arete with a large tree projecting out from the base of the climb. A prominent gully with a cave recess is found just downstream of the climb.

1. 30m 19 Climb the short face with roots to the right. Follow the open book moving right when the face steepens, continue up to a small overhang. Move left and up to a block. Continue up the arete using lugs (layback holds) until another small overhang is reached. Move left again and pull through on good holds. Continue up to small ledge.

2. 21 Move up to the rail, then leftward to a small stance. After the small ledge, instead of moving right, move left to a short face and overlap. Climb this into a short break up to a ledge.

A short distance upstream of the lunch spot is a steep crag on the true left. This route is between 'Pistol' and 'Gunsight'.

1. 30m 21 Start 0,5m left of 'Pistol' and continue up the independent line until a ledge is gained. Traverse easily left 4m and climb the break in the face up to a sloping ledge at the top. Sustained climbing after a tricky take-off.

The route starts 1m to the left of 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 12m 21 Climb onto a block and traverse left 1m, from where a wedge can be placed in a crack high up on the left. Climb up to the roof and continue through the roof 1m to the left then up right to gain a stance on top of a block.

2. 30m 15 Traverse right 2m, here the route crosses 'Lifebuoy', and ascend 2m then left 4m. Continue up a recess to the top.

Start 3m left of 'George'.

1. 15m 18 On the left side of the grey slab is a thin crack. Climb this to a ledge with two small trees.

2. 40m 21 Take off from the left end of the ledge and climb up 5m to a mini-stance. Move diagonally right for a few moves then up to an incut rail (good friend placements). Traverse right for one meter then move up using a layback hold (to avoid 'George'). Climb up diagonally left and then up the grey slab to the top. (Avoid the arete, finish up a grassy break.)

Note: This route is not well protected.

Start as for 'Hospital Hill', i.e. scramble up to the base of the high "Gothic" cave which reaches right to the top of the crag. In the right wall of the cave is an overhanging jam-crack.

1. 25m 21 Climb the jam-crack into a small resting cave. Continue up the steep crack to belay in the deep, sloping cave. (Large nuts useful for runners.)

2. 25m 15 Chimney out spectacularly and horizontally to the lip of the cave and up the slab to the top.

Climbs directly up the centre of the 'Fallen Angel' slab – a harder companion to that route. Start at the same point as the main pitch of 'Fallen Angel'. The dodgy old bolts were replaced with 55mm stainless M10 bolts in Jan 2024.

1. 40m 21 Ascend the slab, following the line of 4 bolts, with difficult moves above bolt number 4. Near the top, ascend cracks to a rail, move 1½ m right and follow the right hand crack to a ledge. A brilliant pitch.

An amazing climb. The route is situated on an obvious green-grey smooth slab to the left of the nose mentioned in 'Chatter Face'. The dodgy old bolts were replaced with 55mm stainless M10 bolts in Jan 2024.

1. [13] 30m Scramble up through vegetation to the centre of the slab. Traverse right to big ledge in corner or belay from small stance at the bottom of the slab (pegs).

2. [21] 45m Climb the crack with two old pegs at the top then up onto slab for 10m (2 bolts in position for protection) until one can traverse left 3m into the second crack system. Climb this for 20m with hard sections at mid-height. Step out right at the top to a good ledge. A sustained pitch.

3. [15] 6m Step back left onto the wall and up.

This climb starts right of 'Stop Press', below a steep face with a vine hanging down.

1. [17] 20m

   Climb up directly below the vine, move right to avoid the vine. Continue up to a ledge.

2. [21] 15m

   Above is a steep buttress with two breaks. Climb the left hand break.

Start 5m to the left of 'Living in the Past' at a blunt arete.

1. [21] 25m Climb the arete tending right to the ledge (8m). Move up to the rail and move left to the base of the right-tending diagonal crack. Follow this to where it finishes and move 2m left under the roof/overlap. Pull through and climb the wall above.

1. [18] 12m

   As for 'Broken Corner'.

2. 24m 21 Bridge up over the bulge on the left and climb directly to the crack. Follow this past a small overhang and continue to the large overhang above. Step left to steep groove which leads to a niche (peg runner). From crouching position in the niche traverse right until good holds lead up to grassy ledge. A sustained pitch.

3. 23m 13 Climb the wall above and make a move right which leads to easy ground.

Between 'Hawk's Eye' and 'Red Corner' is a steep wall capped by roofs. In the centre of the wall is a 6m high corner which starts fairly high up. There is a line 3m left of the corner which is 'Monkey Music'. 'Pumping Gibbon' gains this layback corner and climbs the roofs directly above. Scramble up about 15m to a suitable stance below corner.

1. [20] 30m

   Face climb diagonally right then back left to the base of the corner. Exit left at the top of the corner to stance awkwardly 1m left.

2. 20m 21 Climb straight up to a hanging white block. Traverse 2m left, surmount the block and pull through the final roof on the right. An aid peg provides good protection for the crux.

The climb follows the old aid route CRIB, but the last section may be climbed independent of the adjacent climbs.

1. [21] 40m

   Start 7-8m downstream from 'Tonquani Crack'. Climb the thin crack slanting left up over a small bulge, through a grey face to a large ledge.

2. 40m 19 Ascend the steep wall, keeping 2 to 6m right of the 'Highway' crack, and left of the overhang at the top.

Notes:

The first twenty meters of this climb rates 5 stars with ultra-thin climbing and great spectator participation possibilities! One may easily down climb via 'Tonquani Crack'.

Essentially an alternative to the crux pitch of 'Last Rites'. Climb 'Last Rites' to take a semi-hanging stance at the 'Coffin' rail. This is the rail about 4m above the final roof on the 2nd pitch of 'Last Rites'.

1. 20m 21 Step left onto the slab and climb the groove to where it dies. Step left to a pencil crack and climb this to jugs at the left end of the 'Last Rites' crux traverse. Up to belay at the small tree.

Note:

1. Small cams and wires are useful.

Climbs a face 2-3m right of the arête. A number 2 or 3 rock is useful for the start of the climb. The bolts were inspected, and top anchors added 2005.

Start 5m up the gully at a large tree partially blocking a narrow section of the gully. The bolts were inspected, and top anchors added 2005.

The route climbs the frontal arete on 'Red Column' and finishes spectacularly through a 2m roof (which is prominent on the upper skyline, especially when viewed from downstream). Scramble up grassy slopes to the highest ledge in the large grey open book at the base of 'Red Column', directly below the final roof.

1. [20] 25m

   Climb the open book to a large cammed block a few meters beneath its top. Traverse 2m left and make tricky moves to gain a hidden ledge a few meters higher. Pull-up on the right and continue up and slightly right over steep, juggy rock to reach a ledge (stance at top of Pitch 3 of 'Red Column') about 15m below the final flat roof.

2. [21] 20m

   Climb the steep orange wall just to the right of the arête to a rest beneath the roof. Engage mind in reverse and pull through the roof using the crack splitting the lip. Stagger up to the summit.

Climbs the steep wall on the upper LHS of 'Dark Gully' . i.e Downstream and around the corner from 'Foxtrot'

1. 20m 21 Tricky take-off and then straight up the wall finishing left.

Start a few meters downstream from 'The Hourglass'.

1. 15m 21 Climb more or less straight up the centre of the slab, stepping left about halfway up. Continue diagonally right to reach a ledge at the top right corner of the slab.

Note:

A good set of small wires will be useful.

About 300m downstream of Tonquani/Cedarberg junction in Lower Tonquani is a "fall across" tree. 10m upstream of this is a large flat top boulder. On right hand side a steep wall is present. Two cracks run up this wall. Scramble up to base of steep wall.

1. 35m 21 Make a hard move up and right to the base of the right hand crack system. Climb this, with a hard move about 10m up, to under a roof. Climb past roof to easier ground above.

15m downstream of the 'fall across' tree in Lower Tonquani (and therefore about 15m upstream of 'Old Man's Exit' ) is a smooth shallow recess on the true right. Scramble up this break which becomes a narrow gully with an overhanging upstream wall. Walk up over blocky debris to where the gully steepens. The route follows the obvious steep recess in the upstream wall, starting next to a small tree.

1. 17m 21 Climb the recess.

Note:

It is advisable for the belayer to creep into the cubbyhole just left of the start, as some of the holds on the pitch sound hollow.

Climbs the smooth face starting at stream level immediately upstream of the 'Rastaman Vibration' gully on the true right side of the kloof (i.e. about 8m downstream of the 'Old Man's Exit' ).

1. 15m 21 Climb straight up the middle of the slab to reach a ledge.

Takes the slab to the left of 'Effigy' . Scramble up about 15m.

1. 20m 21 Climb up to the slab and move on to it. Climb up the slab past the bolt.

Starts 3m to the left of 'The Doppler Effect'.

1. [21] 25m Climb the face up to and directly past the bolt to the small ledge (crux), avoiding the left edge completely. Continue up the arete to the top of the crag, finishing up a short chimney left of the line taken by 'The Doppler Effect'.

Note:

If the climber traverses onto the arete on the left the crux is avoided and the overall grade of the climb drops to 18.

About 40m below the junction of Tonquani and Cedarberg kloofs on the left hand side one encounters a large overhanging section at the top of the kloof. Below this is an obvious large left tending open book. The route takes the open book which forms the upper two-thirds of the cliff. Scramble 15m up from stream to grassy ramp to foot of open book. Scramble easy rock for 10m, where rock steepens climb right to good stance.

1. [21] 40m From stance climb slightly down left and into open book. Climb open book using thin crack in corner. Where the wall starts to overhang and the crack runs out use strenuous bridging technique to surmount bulge (21). Climb more easily up crack system until forced left by small overhang (19). Traverse a few meters left out of open book and climb more easily to top.

Note:

Technical climbing on excellent rock.

Variation:

2a. 15m 20 Climb obvious jam-crack to right of belay, stepping right onto the face where the crack finishes. Climb face to ledge and another short face to gain break. (Oct 1986 C. Lomax, A. Smith and M. Haffner)

Scramble up the large gully about 10m downstream of 'The Doppler Effect'. Start at the base of a dark blocky buttress just left of prominent white roots.

1. [21] 20m

   Climb the crack up the front of the buttress to a blocky ledge. Move left to the arete, and climb up this until able to climb diagonally right to ledges.

2. [20] 20m

   Climb up to the right hand side of the long narrow roof above. Under cling to the left end of the roof, pull through, and climb up slightly right to belay.

Note: It can be climbed in 1 pitch.

1. 20m 21 Follow 'Finger Painting the World' to the fifth bolt and then traverse off left and onto the ledge.

Ascends a steep crack just downstream of 'A Dream Of White Lycra', just before you reach 'Vaters Day' . Scramble up as for 'The Doppler Effect' but traverse right along the grass ledge for 15m. Scramble up a short recess for 5m and continue traversing to the right until an obvious crack up a steep wall can be seen above.

1. [16] 40m

   Climb a short corner up to a ledge. Move left to the base of the crack. Make a tricky move up into an alcove and then continue up the crack to a small ledge. Climb the recess above to a ledge.

2. [14] 20m

   Climb the face above to a ledge. Move right to a left facing corner and climb this to a large ledge with a tree belay.

3. [21] 15m

   Climb the right facing open book using layback moves near the roof. Once at the roof step left onto the arete and move up to the left of the hanging creeper. Climb the face to the left of the creeper (using the stem) to a good ledge.

10m left of 'Oedipus Sunday' a knife of rock (poetic license) may be seen detached from the main face for the majority of its length. The route follows the right hand side of this and then a superb parallel-sided crack above (An uncommon feature in the Magaliesberg).

1. [15] 30m

   Ascend the open book on the right hand side of the knife until forced left towards the top. Climb easier rock to stance.

2. [21] 20m

   Scramble up easy rock behind stance to gain the base of an obvious 3m parallel-sided crack (No 11 Hex or 4 Friend handy). Ascend crack to top. Follow up easy rock on left or scramble off.

Starts in the gully to the left of 'Kamikaze' buttress i.e.10m downstream from 'The Hourglass' on the opposite side. Scramble up to base of gully (approx grade 9) and follow gully to ledges below a white-streaked red wall (50m above stream bed).

1. [20] 18m

   Two cracks are visible in the wall. The route follows the right hand (right leaning) crack up to a ledge, then moves slightly left into vague cubbyhole below roof. Pull through roof (very strenuous) and climb up to ledge.

2. [21] 20m

   An immaculate crack up the left hand side of the wall is followed to a groove above, which is followed to the top.

Note: The crux of the climb is a hornets nest 2m above the start. The inhabitants of the said nest aggressively resisted renovation/removal.

Start just left of the arête.

1. [21]30m Climb up to the bolt just above the roof 5m up. Continue up the break about 1m left of the arête.

About 100m upstream of the easy descent gully at the upper campsite is a rock outcrop. The climb starts almost from stream level but about 30m away from the water on the true right of the kloof. The objective is a 25m face brushed by a tree at about 15m.

1. [21] 25m Start in the middle and climb diagonally left until the friend rail at 12m (18). Move right, and then continue straight up the face (reachy).

Variation:

Chicken out onto the arête (20) at 17m and doddle on up.

Start at the same point as 'Naughty Daughter' .

1. 20m 21 Follow 'Naughty Daughter' up to the start of the hand-traverse rail; from here follow the natural continuation of the corner crack by lay-backing up to the overlap. (Crux). Pull through the overlap by using the crack on the right of the block. Continue up a pleasant face on the right to a ledge with good rap tree.

Notes:

Technically pleasing on the crux sequence.

Starts just downstream of 'Naughty Daughter' .

1. [21] 30m Climb shallow corner and arete just left of 'Naughty Daughter' .When possible, move left onto wall above roof and follow thin curving crack to ledge.

An extremely short but pleasant route near the Upper Cedarberg campsite. Approximately 30m downstream of the campsite on the true left is a 1m roof with a finger crack in it. The route takes this line about 5m right of FUNKY CHEMICAL CORNER.

1. 6m 21 Start on a triangular block, pull through the roof and continue up the layback crack.

This route goes up the line in the middle of the left pillar supporting the "arch" which is above the lower swimming pool. Scramble up to the base of the pillar about 40m above the stream.

1. 40m 21 Start directly below the break with a hard move through the small overhang. Climb the crack up and diagonally right to below a small overhang. Excellent finger-locks take you up to a small ledge and tree. Continue up easy rock to the top.

Scramble up to back of very large square-backed recess/ gully mentioned in FROG FACE, RIGHT ANGLE and OLD MAN'S CHOICE. The first pitch follows part of RIGHT ANGLE. Start behind a large right-leaning tree.

1. 20m 11 Scramble up the centre of the very clean pleasant face to small ledge below steep pink corner.

2. 10m 21 Pull through the bulge into the corner and move up to rounded rail on left. Move left to loose-looking flake and pull around corner to left moving up to semi-hanging belay under roof.

3. 18m 19 Drop down 2m and traverse left across slab to below break in wall above. Follow right hand side of break to under roof. Jam through the 2m roof and up juggy wall above to top.

Note:

Pitches 2 & 3 were done separately to avoid excessive rope drag due to the zig-zag nature of the route.

Takes the roof that PLANXTY circumnavigates and the slab above.

1. 35m 21 Start at the right hand side of the PLANXTY slab 1m left of IPSO FACTO. Climb up to roof via subsidiary corner, pull through and trend left to join PLANXTY as it enters final roofs. Finish as for PLANXTY.

Note: This route was initially done by M. Townsend during 1988, but was never written up.

Stay at max 1m from the arete for the grade