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Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

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Created 10 months ago

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Summary

The ultimate alpine playground containing some of the world's most iconic peaks.

Description

The routes listed here mostly contain little information. They are listed merely on the off chance that climbers might wish to log an ascent, as well as for the purposes of community climber profiles.

For more information, please consult the excellent "Patagonia Vertical" guidebook by Rolando Garibotti and Dorte Pietron, or visit pataclimb.com.

Access issues

You must secure a climbing permit at the National Park Visitor Centre, though the permit is free. Crossing some areas of private land such as Valle Rio Electrico attracts a modest access fee.

Approach

Generally long and gnarly.

Where to stay

There are several options in El Chalten, ranging from dirt cheap camping to 5 star luxury. Many climbers choose to stay in one of the hostels, however those who stay for several months may wish to consider renting a house for the duration of their stay.

Ethic

This is an alpine wilderness and rescues are problematic - climb accordingly.

As with most alpine climbing, bolts are to be used sparingly and as a last resort (historical divergences such as The Compressor Route notwithstanding).

When reading topos and route descriptions, it pays to remember that the established ethic is to give the height of new routes as only that of new terrain covered. Therefore, in regard to variants and linkups, seek further information on the "combined length" of the entire route.

Remember, this is a World Heritage area. Practice LNT principles, espeically in regard to travelling and camping on durable surfaces and waste management.

History

History timeline chart

Climbing in the Chalten Massif has a long, rich history dating back more than 100 years. It would be impossible to scratch the surface of this history in a mere few sentences, but several excellent books exist. Try "The Tower" by Kelly Cordes, an arresting investigation into the many controversies surrounding the mythical Cerro Torre.

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