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Created about a year ago

Description

Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile. It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village. First climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone, it remains among the most technically challenging mountains for mountaineers on Earth.

Access issues inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

You must secure a climbing permit at the National Park Visitor Centre, though the permit is free. Crossing some areas of private land such as Valle Rio Electrico attracts a modest access fee.

Ethic inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

This is an alpine wilderness and rescues are problematic - climb accordingly.

As with most alpine climbing, bolts are to be used sparingly and as a last resort (historical divergences such as The Compressor Route notwithstanding).

When reading topos and route descriptions, it pays to remember that the established ethic is to give the height of new routes as only that of new terrain covered. Therefore, in regard to variants and linkups, seek further information on the "combined length" of the entire route.

Remember, this is a World Heritage area. Practice LNT principles, espeically in regard to travelling and camping on durable surfaces and waste management.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Alberto Bendinger, Eduardo Brenner, Marcos Couch & Peter Friedrich, 1984

FA: Kurt Albert †, Bernd Arnold, Jörg Gerschel & Lutz Richter, 1995

FA: Dean Potter †, 2002

FA: Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll & Jonathan Griffin, 3 Mar

Information needed

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Activity

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