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Created about a year ago

Description

The Aguja Saint Exupery is a mountain spear ('aguja') located near the Cerro Chaltén in the Los Glaciares National Park in Patagonia, Argentina.

Access issues inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

You must secure a climbing permit at the National Park Visitor Centre, though the permit is free. Crossing some areas of private land such as Valle Rio Electrico attracts a modest access fee.

Ethic inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

This is an alpine wilderness and rescues are problematic - climb accordingly.

As with most alpine climbing, bolts are to be used sparingly and as a last resort (historical divergences such as The Compressor Route notwithstanding).

When reading topos and route descriptions, it pays to remember that the established ethic is to give the height of new routes as only that of new terrain covered. Therefore, in regard to variants and linkups, seek further information on the "combined length" of the entire route.

Remember, this is a World Heritage area. Practice LNT principles, espeically in regard to travelling and camping on durable surfaces and waste management.

History

History timeline chart

The mountain is named in memory of Antoine de Saint Exupéry, the French writer and aviator who was director of the Aeroposta Argentina airline and pioneered postal flights in the Patagonia region between 1929 and 1931.

The Aguja Saint Exupery was first climbed on February 23, 1968, by Silvia Metzeltin, Gino Buscaini, Lino Condot, Walter Romano & Silvano Sinigo, an Italian team of climbers who opened an 800 metres (2,625 ft) route on its East Pillar.

Routes

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Grade Route

Gear

  • double set of cams to #4
  • one each to #6
  • two sets of TCUs
  • stoppers
  • RPs
  • five peckers
  • three angles
  • seven lost arrows
  • three knifeblades
  • two hooks

FA: Luka Krajnc & Luka Lindič, 22 Feb 2020

Information needed

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Activity

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