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Created 10 months ago

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In 1970 Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus and Pietro Vidi opened this new route on the southeast face with the aid of a gas-powered compressor drill. Maestri equipped 350 metres (1,150 ft) of rock with bolts and got to the end of the rocky part of the mountain, just below the ice mushroom. Maestri claimed that "the mushroom is not part of the mountain" and did not continue to the summit. The compressor was left, tied to the last bolts, 100 m below the top. Maestri was heavily criticised for the "unfair" methods he used to climb the mountain.

The route Maestri followed is now known as the Compressor route and was climbed to the summit in 1979 by Jim Bridwell and Steve Brewer. Most parties consider the ascent complete only if they summit the often-difficult ice-rime mushroom.

The first undisputed ascent was made in 1974 by the "Ragni di Lecco" climbers Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari, and Pino Negri.

Source Wikipedia

Set by Ezio Alimonta, Daniele Angeli, Claudio Baldessarri, Carlo Claus & Pietro Vidi, 1970

FA: Jim Bridwell, Steve Brewer, Daniele Chiappa, Mario Conti, Casimiro Ferrari & Pino Negri, 1974

FFA: David Lama †, Jan 2012

The Long Run 6c A1 M7, 2100 m, Cerro Torre, new route, following whole SE Ridge of the mountain and summiting two other “cerros” on the way: El Mochito (by a new route, 6a, 250m) and El Mocho (by Benitieres, Anker-Piola, ED-, 6c A1).

FA: Marko Prezelj, Stephen Koch & Dean Potter †, 2006

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