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Created about a year ago

Seasonality

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Description

Torre Egger is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located in a region which is disputed between Argentina and Chile, west of 'Cerro Chalten' (also known as 'Fitz Roy'). The peak is between 'Cerro Torre', the highest in a four mountain chain and 'Cerro Stanhardt'. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926-1959), who died while attempting neighboring 'Cerro Torre'.

Source Wikipedia

Access issues inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

You must secure a climbing permit at the National Park Visitor Centre, though the permit is free. Crossing some areas of private land such as Valle Rio Electrico attracts a modest access fee.

Ethic inherited from Los Glaciares Parque Nacional

This is an alpine wilderness and rescues are problematic - climb accordingly.

As with most alpine climbing, bolts are to be used sparingly and as a last resort (historical divergences such as The Compressor Route notwithstanding).

When reading topos and route descriptions, it pays to remember that the established ethic is to give the height of new routes as only that of new terrain covered. Therefore, in regard to variants and linkups, seek further information on the "combined length" of the entire route.

Remember, this is a World Heritage area. Practice LNT principles, espeically in regard to travelling and camping on durable surfaces and waste management.

History

History timeline chart

In 1976, John Bragg, Jim Donini and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the col between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976 when the 3-person team summitted.

Source Wikipedia

Routes

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Grade Route
1 M5
2 AI6
3 96°

FA: Bjørn-Eivind Årtun & Ole Lied, 25 Dec 2011

ED 6+ A2 90°

FA: Steph Davis & Dean Potter †, 2005

The route breaches a hitherto unclimbed crack system up the sharp and elegant East Pillar of Torre Egger and was envisaged by the late Marc-André Leclerc during his ground-breaking first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in 2016.

Source planetmountain.com

FA: Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts & Horacio Gratton, 9 Feb 2020

Information needed

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Activity

Check out what is happening in Torre Egger.

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