Routes in Asia

Same as Making it Work, but don’t avoid the crux like a sissy.

Belay from the little slab at the base of the cliff, climb is characterized by pockets made from the sandstone layers. At the 4th clip there’s a large cave to the left, avoid it as some of the hermits live in there at times. Slightly run out between clips 3-4 because of the layers. Can cheat the crux by following the crack up to the right and traversing back over along the top to the anchors.

To the right of the lead climb there are top anchors on the face. Not super easy to access fro the top, but offers clear path for top rope not to rub too much. At the bottom there’s a gradually steepening slab covered in green slippery moss up to the first ledge. Pretty straightforward from there. Lead climb bolting was abandoned due to the hollow quality of the rock.

Start with hands on the face, feet under the overhang. Crimp up to the slopey pockets. In the deep pocket be prepared to have 1000 ants on you within seconds, can switch grip in the ant pocket to undercling. Top out on big jug in between the two anchor bolts.

Climb to the southern anchor. Really green and slippery on account of the water trickle here that created a perfect cleft in the top of the rock, the downspout.

On the corner of the rock, furthest to the south.

Next to the layback crack there is a little roof. Should be a climb here.

A nice layback crack almost the length of the route. Hits a teeny tiny roof one meter below the anchors.

Under the big tree there is an obvious yellow crack, there are anchors but tying to the big branch will save your rope a lot of friction. Hand shredding project on explosive sandstone. We’ve blown off more holds than there are on the route. The crux is early, best guess is to reach deep in the yellow coloured crack for a slopey side grip. Recommend listening to tunes by Big Wreck to bring the psyche.

Start in front of the big red barked tree. (For top rope recommend anchoring in the tree, actually, save your rope a lot of trouble). Big pocket on the right gets you of the ground, big pocket above your head gets you to the first bolt. Straight forward slopey stuff from there. Very bouldery route.

Far end of the sector is a project that ideally one would have a few crash pads for. Start with a traverse on the overhung start until your back is almost touching the boulder behind you. A fall early results in a boulder bump, hence why a crashpad is ideal. Transition from pockets to crimps to slopes to achieve the steep slab top. Anchors in the rock BUT a top rope attempt will absolutely shred a rope.

Same top as Kroma Crashpad, start from on top of the boulder to skip all the hard stuff.

Straight down from the main promontory slightly to the right (south) there is a hand sized crack that is hidden by a small tree growing out from the rock. Debating the ethics of cutting the tree. Route starts from the same block as Antal's route and Nosey project, lower than that is just high angle dirt slope.

Starting on the same block as Hidden Treasure traverse left when the route gets overhanging, traverse back right to escape into the small notch beside the main promontory.

When standing on the promontory furthest out going down the right side is a smooth nose like corner. Below the nose is a blocky roof with a few deep ledges. Climb really starts from the block about 10m off the ground, 21m ish from the top.

Unknown length. Can be belayed from the ground or from the ledge inside the roof (which would shorten the route by 5 ish meters.) Flat green mossy face from the ground to the ledge. Thin crack in the dihedral to the roof. Decent looking hand crack out of the roof. Haven't see above it yet.

Unknown height. Can be belayed from the ground or the ledge under the rood (that would remove 5ish meters). On the right side of the square where the ledge continues out of the square. Either dihedral face climb to the roof then hand? crack out, or climb the arete direcctly to the edge of the roof. Hand crack up from the roof.

Same as Sunset roof right but climb the arrete to avoid the roof.

Very obvious line on the boulder that juts out into the road. Cannot get to Phnom KomNob without passing by this beauty. Start low feet hands in crater at chest height. Step into crater with strong undercling in the top to move within reach of the crescent shape up to the left. Dyno option very cool, maybe harder than static move, but maybe not.

There are nice footholds, and general smeary slabs to go up the right side of the boulder. It's also the easiest way down, though it takes some nerve.

Seems like some pockets on the side of the boulder towards the wat would yield a line. No known attempts yet.

Beneath the extremely overhung roof that tops the cliff about 50-60m to the south-west of the main prow. Starts with a traverse right along a ledge to a hand crack that leads to a small roof, then another traverse left? or right? to a face climb top out. The headwall is a big question mark. Face climbing, maybe goes. looks liek there could be another crack up high but hard to see from the bottom.

Off the North side of the main prow (left when looking from the top toward the edge) there is a line that might go, sort of follows a banyan tree that has exploited the same weakness in the rock. Could sling the tree at points if pro becomes sparse. There is a big rock on top of the flat outlook portion of the cliff, if you wrap it it could be a suitabe anchor to project this climb. Not sure if the pro goes or if bolts will be involved.

Alternating from a cave entrance to a chimney to a flaring offwidth and back through it all again maybe twice. It's not a great looking climb, but it looks do-able. maybe not protectable though. (Marked as top rope project, not sure if it's protectable). Tree at the top is our usual abseil anchor for accessing the bottom.

Length can vary depending if you start down in the pit, or from the lip of the pit. Maybe 5m longer. Looks o be a full continuous crack up a dihedral all the way from bottom to top. At least what we can see of it, needs some gardening. Needs big cams (unsure what size).

On the south side of the boulder there is a deeper water chanel than the rest. Easy way up, tall but not scary.

Easy slab to the left of the "cockpit". The top anchor can be accessed from above using another set of anchors bolted in the top of the rock (the scramble up the side is easy, but exposed). If you can hand jam its a much easier climb, if you can't it's still easy 😂

Just a little scramble into the cavity within the tower. Good spot for a cool off. Not hard to get into.

Not really a climb, but scramble up to access the anchor ledge for the sport climbs. Start in front of the cockpit, top the slab, can sling the horn for protection, and there is one bolt [unconfirmed] on the main cliff when you step over the gap.

No permanent anchor, sling the horn at the top of the slab on the left side of the space shuttle. Climb from the launch slab.

(#1 on the topo) Starting from the launch slab (the only sport climb to start here, though all the belaying is from here) follow the obvious line up to the left-most anchors. The climb is significantly harder if you stay to the right of the bolts, there are alot more features off to the left.

Anchors were placed at the bottom of the "launch slab" to safely access the starting ledge below and regain access to slab.

(#2 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with The Right Stuff

(#3 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". Shares anchor with 99.

(#4 on topo) 99, The Right Stuff, and Predator all technically start from the treed ledge below, but can be started from the "launch slab". While 99 and The Right Stuff run closely paralell and share an anchor, Predator drifts to the right with largely run out bolts, presumably so placed because of the precarious rock. After the last bolt the climb is easy to the anchors at the very top of the tower. [Note: these anchors have not been inspected in nearly a decade, use with caution]

(#15) A huge overhanging offwidth goes from just above the main entrance of the cave, follow it to the anchors in the cave roof. Jump start from a boulder or borrow a friends shoulders. Only two known ascents.

(#16) Starting just to the left of the cleft opening to the outside of the cave (in the northern wall) overhanging and fairly featurless. Uses same anchor as Secret of the Golden Flower.

(#17) Getting off the ground is the hard part of this climb, the rest is pretty easy. Start at the far left end of the western wall above the archway, the anchors are on the ledge halfway up the wall. Accessable if you walk up the side outside the cave.

Start between Go Ban! and the Bat Hold, use the bolts from the Bat Hold and traverse over to use the anchors from Go Ban!. There are sort of half pipe like features in the rock, this one goes up the second half pipe from the left.

(#18) An interesting start and finish, easy middle. Jump start at the leftmost end of the arch, push your feet off the wall under the arch and stay to the left of the bolt line. The anchors are on the opposite wall (almost behind you as you get to the top) and require either quite a long reach, or quite a long run out to traverse around to them. Alternate start is fully under the archway.

(#19) Pre clip the first bolt underneath the archway, around the middle. Jump to grab the natural bar and insert feet into the holes. Work your way out onto the face slightly to the right of the start (alternate: exit the arch more to the left for "The Bat Hold") once on the face stay to the right of the bolt line. from halfway up the face join "The Bat Hold" to the same anchors.

A long traverse under the archway in the cave. Start on the left (when looking at it from the main cave entrance, the left side near the other opening) there is a hanging flake reachable from the ground, best feet is the whitish spot up high near the hands. Follow the archway until the gap to the next wall, cross the gap and traverse right to continue down to the ground. Considered "topped" when your feet can plant on the green painted rock and you can step down the ground without jumping.

A variation on Golden Flower Arch. Same start, finishes on the diamond shaped rock in the middle of the gap from the horizontal portion of the arch to the next wall. Instead of proceeding down, go up the gap and top on the rock.

Same as Golden Flower Arch, but start from green rock on the right and finish on the left. Same rule applies: considered "topped"when climbed back down to feet on the ground.

After midway top go up over the difficult downclimb and climb back down around to the green rock finish.

A very easy climb immediately behind the shrine at the top of the cemetary. [At last check bolts were missing, assigned grade is probably a bit high but route has not been repeated in recent memory]

(#2 on the topo) Furthest anchors in towards the U shape in the rock face.

(#3 on the topo) In the tube like feature straight ahead when you enter the area. Good stemming warmup. Named for Seam Sarorn, one of Cambodia's foremost climbing instructors. [At last check bottom bolt was missing, preclip the upper bolt]

To the right of the tube, use same anchors as Sarorn's Birthday. Climb up the sharp end of the little jutting out rock. [At last check bottom anchor was missing]

(#8 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) first of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details.

(#9 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) second of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details.

(#10 on the topo) After passing by the cave with the stair case ("Indiana Jones pass" on the map) third of four top-ropes up to the trail on to the wat at the peak. No other known details except the name pronounced "muy bpee bey", 123 in Khmer.

(#11 on the topo) Easy as... Where the trail turns to head down to the caves there is a route with anchors that are accesible by leaving the trail above and crossing the pinnacles.

(#12 on the topo) When headed down the stairs enter a notch between the wall and a boulder on the left before passing cave entrance on your right. Can belay from the small flat area behind the boulder. (Details vague, climb only just rediscovered.) Might share top anchor with #13.

(#13 on the topo) When headed down pass the cave entrance on your right and the start of 12 and 13 will be on your left. No known details on this climb, presumably shares top anchor with #12.

Hard route coming out of the upper section of the cave. No known beta, bolts are a little far in between. Belay from the landing 1/3 of the way down the cave.

(#5 on topo) Start to the left of the pointy boulder. Uses the same anchors as Temple Gully Buttress, but exits the gully to the left and climbs the face. First and second bolt are slightly run out and it's much hotter outside the gully but the climb is, overall, easier. [Note:assigned grade disagrees.]

(#6 on topo) A fun climb with an easy walk off (if you prefer not to lower-off) the belay is a little bit steep, suggest tying off to the tree. The bolt line meanders just a bit, the real line goes fairly vertical the whole way, but the crux is easy to skip if you want an easy day by traversing along the ledge to the right.

(#7 on topo) No information known, location noted on Japanese climbers topo from Angkor Climbers Guidebook

To the right of 1-1. Shares anchor with 1-1.

To the right of 1-2. Shares anchor with 2-2/2-3.

To the right of 2-1. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-3.

To the right of 2-2. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-2.