• Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 85



Access issues inherited from Mutton Bird

Respect the rock and natural environment you are climbing in. Clean your rubbish up and give tick marks and caked chalk a good scrubbing.

Ethic inherited from Mutton Bird

Clean tick marks and caked chalk. Clean up your rubbish. No chipping, gluing or bolting.


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Start as Ken Lee/Direct. Instead of going up to the jug flake - eliminate the jug and take a crimpy traverse right. Contrived, but cool movement and worth the effort! Sustained crimping.

FA: Michael Taran, 22 Sep

Sit start on low crimps then into the shouldery crimps to finish as 'Ken Lee'.

FA: Andy Lampard

Sit start on good right hand side pull as for 'High Times', then cross left hand all the way over to shallow crimp into a tricky shouldery sequence.

Sit start then up with good holds to an easy top out. Flows really well.

Sit start as for ‘The Arete’ climb up then link right with a long move to the jugs and top out as ‘High Times

Sit start and up.

FA: Andy Lampard

Stand start. Slab to the right of 'Prism'

Sit start at the base of the triangular feature. Straight up into a heady top out.

Sit start on slopey sidepulls as 'The Windmill' and trend right up the slab to a heady top out.

Sit start on blocky rectangular feature on the right. Dyno out left to the jugs. Top out around the corner or straight up for a bit of extra scare factor.

Stand start using left hand sloper and right hand crimp. Up through the feature and throw to the jug. Easy top out to left.

Sit start with the arete and right face. Weird off balance first move. Finish directly up as for ‘The Windmill’.

Sit start under the slightly overhanging face. Up using the obvious flake system and a kinda mono. Close to the drink - needs a low swell/tide - watch out for king waves!

FA: Woody133, Jan 2016

Start as 'The Mutton Bird' but instead of heading left go up and right to link into the right hand flake system.

Sit start low on sidepull feature and up slot ledges and round crimps, utilising crack techniques may prove useful.

Nice movement, Falling is inadvisable.

Stand start matched on the flat triangular hold on the arete and up.

FA: Jim Nevin, 1998

Stand start with quartzite right hand sidepull and the lowest of the left hand sidepulls on the arete. Up the face.

FA: Ron Master, 2003

Stand start. Up the jugs

Sit start with right hand sidepull and left hand edge and low feet. Up with various friction jugs.

Sit start with obvious horn jug that looks dodgy but somehow hasn't broken yet!

Sit start.

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